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Author Topic: Why Scarpa Why???  (Read 2228 times)

old_school

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Why Scarpa Why???
« on: January 08, 2013, 10:27:09 AM »

Just read that the new Scarpa Instincts will now be equipped with shitty Vibram xs Edge rubber instead of the far stickier and superior xs grip 2. I have always wondered why companies f*ck with a good thing? Guess I will have to buy up some of the 2011-12 models with the xs grip 2 or go back to Five Ten. Its like painting a moustache on the Mona Lisa...  >:(
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

sneoh

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2013, 11:45:06 AM »

Grammy -
http://www.backcountry.com/
has both Edge and Grip2 "equipped" Instincts and Vapors.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

old_school

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2013, 11:47:34 AM »

Grammy -
http://www.backcountry.com/
has both Edge and Grip2 "equipped" Instincts and Vapors.

Thanks man....I am buying another pair of 45's...the Mayans were right...<sigh>   ;)
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2013, 11:54:55 AM »

Scarpa used to have a REAL climber do  product developement- Jon Dunne. He really knew his shit. Similar was Acopa (Bachar)  now who knows .....
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old_school

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2013, 12:00:29 PM »

Scarpa used to have a REAL climber do  product developement- Jon Dunne. He really knew his shit. Similar was Acopa (Bachar)  now who knows .....

Well they got Heinz Mariacher over from LaSportiva and he really knows his shit about shoes. I love the fit and feel of the Instincts and they are hands down the best shoes I have worn to date. The xs Grip 2 feels just as good as the onyxx does on my Galileos (not quite as sticky as C4). Now they are putting xs edge on that feels like balogna skins on fresh snow.  >:(
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strandman

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2013, 05:32:17 PM »

Heinz "purple " Mariacher !!!

Didn't picking rubbbers used to be easier   ;D
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old_school

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2013, 07:19:28 PM »

Heinz "purple " Mariacher !!!

Didn't picking rubbbers used to be easier   ;D

lol....oh hell yes  ;D
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2013, 08:21:20 PM »

I'm surprised at the rates they are charging that they haven't gone the way of select your model select your rubber. If i remember correctly for a little bit evolv did a pick your custom colors thing....
 
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-Jeremy Ballou

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old_school

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2013, 08:22:35 PM »

I'm surprised at the rates they are charging that they haven't gone the way of select your model select your rubber. If i remember correctly for a little bit evolv did a pick your custom colors thing....

Love that idea!
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

xcrag_corex

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2013, 08:39:13 PM »

maybe spread the idea on MP, RC, and supertopo and get a lot of people to back it......but i'm sure there would be another upcharge to the already exorbitant cost of climbing shoes.
 
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-Jeremy Ballou

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strandman

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #10 on: January 09, 2013, 12:11:56 PM »

And next, be able to get half size different shoes !! That won't happen
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sneoh

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #11 on: January 09, 2013, 02:11:19 PM »

And next, be able to get half size different shoes !! That won't happen
I believe a lot of climbers 'need' this, I among them!
My left foot is longer but lower volume than my right so I am always taking off or loosening my left shoe first.  Shoes that do not stretch at least 1/2 size just don't work for me.
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old_school

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #12 on: January 09, 2013, 02:14:06 PM »

And next, be able to get half size different shoes !! That won't happen
I believe a lot of climbers 'need' this, I among them!
My left foot is longer but lower volume than my right so I am always taking off or loosening my left shoe first.  Shoes that do not stretch at least 1/2 size just don't work for me.

100% agree. My left foot is a bit wider and at least 1/4 - 1/2" longer than my right. Evolv allows you to order two sizes.

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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

sneoh

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #13 on: January 09, 2013, 02:23:04 PM »

Do all Evolv shoes stink (worse than others) after some months of use?
« Last Edit: January 09, 2013, 02:28:38 PM by sneoh »
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

old_school

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Re: Why Scarpa Why???
« Reply #14 on: January 09, 2013, 02:31:05 PM »

Do all Evolv shoes stink (worse than others) after some months of use?

Sting or Stink? Some of their shoes really do get the foot funk going so it is important to open them up and air them out. I send the tongue through the lower laces to hold it out of the way which allows the air to get to the inside of the shoe. If you stay on top of it, they aren't too bad, but if you are one to wear them on the slabs all day and then peel them off and throw them in your pack until the next adventure...you may be looking for a new roomate!  ;D
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."
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