You may be pissed by what you read, Champ, but this is over the line. I hardly think you have sufficient evidence to substantiate this statement,. It is this kind of extrapolation (or generalization as DMan puts it) that turns people off.
I appologized for people close to the climber. I hope that they will understand that the book accident in north american mountaineering was not write for previous accident but for the accident that will happen tomorow. I respect the climber and I hope that it's memory will help even one climber to save his life. The accident report on that book save my life many time and I have a truly and very high respect to those who decide to have an honest consideration to the friend of the person trap in an accident.
When you said that a beginer climb 5.9 in rock...that statement means that if you climb sam swam song at Canon, a 5.6, you are lest than a beginer. As a young climber want to be recognize by his community (it is not my case), he will do it as a warm up and won't take all the necessary precaution to climb safe. Is it the climber who think that he his over is ability or is it those who said that a beginer climb 5.9...
For me it is clear...when some influence other to do some think that can threating there life, they are more guilty than the climber. In the old time, they always say to look at the forecast three days before going to climb a route. In accident INAM, 2012 p17, 'the climbers had chosen to climb in a period immediadetly following new snowfall that totaled [...] 12 inches." I have photo of the ground, and avy analyse of the day and previous day. personally, my decision was to not going climbing on that day on Mt Washington.
A word for Old Eric: it is not the place to talk about that and I respect the family on that point. There is no good time. When you climb in the old time, mt washington was considered as a very high chalenge, today, it is a practice to do laps in a wonderfull environment. Even if you take risk at those time, you always keep your mind on the danger. Today, the gullies are a walk. Some people understand what I am doing and change little things, but important things. I accept to be a magnet and I should be carefull not to attack those people who are looking for more safety in our sport.