General > Ice & Winter Climbing

Shoestring Gully

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This is my second ice climbing season. I can top-rope 4/4+ and I just started leading my first pitches. My first "real" leading experience was in Landslide Gully two weeks ago. It was a beautiful day and to be honest, the climb was a bit too easy. The most challenging part was the find the Webster Cliffs trail on the top of the ridge... Now, I'd like to climb something slightly harder and Shoestring Gully seems about right.

I read there are two exits : the Chockstone Exit (5.5) and the Direct Finish (M3). Last time on Landslide Gully, I brought a small rock after reading about the route on Summitpost (, but I wasn't useful. If I choose the Direct Finish, is the rock rack useful ? Or I'll just be able to find some ice ? I was planning on bringing 4 cams and some nuts.

Thanks !

It's been ten or so days since I've been up Shoestring so take this with a grain of salt.  It was mostly a snow climb with one or two decent bulges.  Why not Odell or Yale?  As long as you're efficient these climbs are great fun. 

I'd pay close attention to the weather and avalanche bulletins though.  It will prolly be REAL windy over the next couple of days and any new snow will be loaded onto a brand new rain crust.  That being the same condition that contributed to the accident in Central Gully a couple of weeks ago.

Hey, thanks. I've indeed been considering Odell's and Yale. But I wanted to do another "easy" route just to get some experience. But if Shoestring is pretty much like Landslide, maybe I could give Odell's a shot.

Indeed, I've been checking the avalanche advisories. I'll be careful ! If the ratings stay this high, I'll stay in the gym !

Admin Al:
as far as a rock rack on Shoestring, I hear of folks bringing and using rock gear but I never have. I actually stay away from the wall on the right as the rock is really crappy. I've done the runnel/chimney finish many times and haven't seen any places for rock gear, however I have usually managed to get a stubby screw in near the crux. so I guess I would say, don't bother...


--- Quote ---I read there are two exits : the Chockstone Exit (5.5) and the Direct Finish (M3).
--- End quote ---

I thought those were both variations? I've done the little mixed exit on the right that finishes directly on the top of the right buttress (not sure which variation that is called) but other times I've just finished straight up the gully in easy snow.

Disclaimer: It's been over 10 years since I've been up there so maybe my memory is faulty...?


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