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Author Topic: Shoestring Gully  (Read 1013 times)

angeloks

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Shoestring Gully
« on: January 31, 2013, 09:09:48 AM »

Hi,

This is my second ice climbing season. I can top-rope 4/4+ and I just started leading my first pitches. My first "real" leading experience was in Landslide Gully two weeks ago. It was a beautiful day and to be honest, the climb was a bit too easy. The most challenging part was the find the Webster Cliffs trail on the top of the ridge... Now, I'd like to climb something slightly harder and Shoestring Gully seems about right.

I read there are two exits : the Chockstone Exit (5.5) and the Direct Finish (M3). Last time on Landslide Gully, I brought a small rock after reading about the route on Summitpost (http://www.summitpost.org/landslide-gully/474555), but I wasn't useful. If I choose the Direct Finish, is the rock rack useful ? Or I'll just be able to find some ice ? I was planning on bringing 4 cams and some nuts.

Thanks !





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darwined

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2013, 09:22:48 AM »

It's been ten or so days since I've been up Shoestring so take this with a grain of salt.  It was mostly a snow climb with one or two decent bulges.  Why not Odell or Yale?  As long as you're efficient these climbs are great fun. 

I'd pay close attention to the weather and avalanche bulletins though.  It will prolly be REAL windy over the next couple of days and any new snow will be loaded onto a brand new rain crust.  That being the same condition that contributed to the accident in Central Gully a couple of weeks ago.
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angeloks

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2013, 09:28:59 AM »

Hey, thanks. I've indeed been considering Odell's and Yale. But I wanted to do another "easy" route just to get some experience. But if Shoestring is pretty much like Landslide, maybe I could give Odell's a shot.

Indeed, I've been checking the avalanche advisories. I'll be careful ! If the ratings stay this high, I'll stay in the gym !
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Admin Al

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2013, 11:00:07 AM »

as far as a rock rack on Shoestring, I hear of folks bringing and using rock gear but I never have. I actually stay away from the wall on the right as the rock is really crappy. I've done the runnel/chimney finish many times and haven't seen any places for rock gear, however I have usually managed to get a stubby screw in near the crux. so I guess I would say, don't bother...
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Al Hospers
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JBrochu

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2013, 11:11:07 AM »

Quote
I read there are two exits : the Chockstone Exit (5.5) and the Direct Finish (M3).

I thought those were both variations? I've done the little mixed exit on the right that finishes directly on the top of the right buttress (not sure which variation that is called) but other times I've just finished straight up the gully in easy snow.

Disclaimer: It's been over 10 years since I've been up there so maybe my memory is faulty...?
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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2013, 04:08:57 PM »

I've probably done it 50 times and I only know about the 2 finishes you described. I don't know about a chockstone exit.
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Al Hospers
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JBrochu

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2013, 04:24:31 PM »

It seemed to me like OP thought he had only a choice between a 5.5 exit and an M3 exit, when in reality he can just exit up the easy snow slope.
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
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This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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angeloks

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2013, 04:42:56 PM »

My bad, I wanted to know about the two harder variations. Indeed you can just climb the snow slope to the top. Sorry if that wasn't clear !
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JBrochu

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2013, 05:13:47 PM »

Got ya.

Well fwiw the mixed finish near the top right that finishes on the very top of the right buttress (no idea what it's officially called) felt pretty easy both times I did it--maybe comparable to 5.2ish or 5.3ish. I don't remember much for pro though--one time I was solo and the other time I believe I slung a clump of bushes or something about 10 to 15 feet up but no pro for the remaining 20 to 25 feet.

How difficult it is is very likely dependent on the condition you find it in. (I know you can call me Captain Obvious!)
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2013, 08:43:20 PM »

here's a picture of Shoestring from today 1/31/2013

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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2013, 09:32:45 PM »

Looks terrible... with probably long sections of unfrozen rock... I would stay away until we get more snow.... but Lucky Luke would probably say it’s perfect....

“You must be in mud slide to learn about mud slide technique”*

* Not a real quote from anybody...
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JBrochu

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #11 on: February 01, 2013, 10:25:05 AM »

Ya that looks gross.
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

frik

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #12 on: February 01, 2013, 11:24:57 AM »

Dman; you sure that quote isn't real, it sounds so..... familiar.
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angeloks

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #13 on: February 01, 2013, 04:33:17 PM »

Hum... Indeed, that doesn't look good ! Anyone know what Odell's might look like now ?
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dhmarshall

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Re: Shoestring Gully
« Reply #14 on: February 01, 2013, 04:50:20 PM »

Through binoculars I saw a couple climbers on Shoestring today. It didn't look like it would be that much fun to climb. There's probably a few pitches of ice up there but it's definitely thin. Lots of rock poking through.
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dmarshallphoto.com
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