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Author Topic: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?  (Read 954 times)

mikeinnh

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Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« on: February 01, 2013, 04:54:26 PM »

My interest has recently been brought to mixed climbing. I am looking for recommendations on moderate mixed climbs in NH. Preferably 3 or fewer pitches and preferably with good gear or bolts. The only mixed climbing I've done is the shoestring rock finish, p1 of hitchcock gully on willard, and p2 of the penguin (on TR) at Frankenstein. ANy suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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DGoguen

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2013, 05:45:40 PM »

The rock finish to Pegasus is super fun, safe and moderate.
Fixed pins x 3

Standard route on Cathedral is pretty cool as well.
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JChepes

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2013, 07:19:09 PM »

Echo in Franconia Notch has real fun mixed climbing with good gear.  The only problem being the routes don't hang around often in warm weather which seems to be a problem these days. 
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strandman

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2013, 08:10:51 PM »

I'll second Cathedral Standard.. even I have done that one
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mikeinnh

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2013, 09:30:59 PM »

Thanks for the quick responses. How was the crux pitch of standard at cathedral when you guys have done it? Ice climbing? Did it take screws? or unprotected rock climbing?
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Admin Al

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2013, 06:01:16 AM »

The crux is usually the cave. Sometimes it's iced up, sometimes not. I dont remember getting any screws in there. Take some rock gear.
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Al Hospers
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smartpig

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2013, 10:37:09 AM »

What is the concern about scratching up summer rock routes with zee crampoons?
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strandman

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2013, 10:42:04 AM »

Because it is not a rock climb... it is Woods in the Crack

scratch, scratch
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DGoguen

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2013, 11:29:17 AM »

How was the crux pitch of standard at cathedral when you guys have done it? Ice climbing? Did it take screws? or unprotected rock climbing?
The times I've done it, I dry tooled the big wide crack in the back of the cave. It has, or had anyway, a couple of fixed slings around various chockstones for clipping or perhaps even hooking if no ones looking. A statement like, "hey look I think Cranmore is on fire" usually gets your partner to look the other way just long enough. Generally the route is well protected but sustained. Easy to retreat if your not feeling it. Before the rain, the ice up to the toe crack was pretty fat.
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JJ Jameson

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #9 on: February 02, 2013, 01:33:36 PM »

Depending on amount of ice, getting screws in at the start can be a bitch, I remember Tom Nonis spending an inordinate amount of time there scratching around and complaining while Neil and I froze our asses off and teased him. ( he always had this style of thinking: slow and steady near the ground. NEVER wanted to deck. Get him a rope length off the ground, and it was like he suddenly put on a jet pack.)
The crux for me was just getting off the ground, and stable, in the cave, on the wall on the right. Very dicey, no gear,
and only like 6-8 feet before you can start climbing the crack again, but... The thought of falling onto that cave floor with 'pons on makes it nerve wracking. Problem is, even your best friend won't "spot" you once you are above them wearing spikes!!
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Admin Al

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2013, 06:29:46 PM »

]Problem is, even your best friend won't "spot" you once you are above them wearing spikes!!

LOL...
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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #11 on: February 02, 2013, 09:13:10 PM »

JJ, that whole post is +1, but I liked "slow and steady near the ground. NEVER wanted to deck. Get him a rope length off the ground, and it was like he suddenly put on a jet pack"
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triguy

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #12 on: February 02, 2013, 09:24:11 PM »

How is thin air in the winter?   

Can you dry tool it or is that frowned upon?
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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #13 on: February 03, 2013, 05:34:33 AM »

How is thin air in the winter?   

Can you dry tool it or is that frowned upon?

it gets done occasionally. go for it IMNSHO...
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Al Hospers
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strandman

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Re: Moderate mixed climbing suggestions?
« Reply #14 on: February 04, 2013, 06:39:27 PM »

How is thin air in the winter?   

Can you dry tool it or is that frowned upon?

At one point WAY long ago (I think '78) it was completley iced up.. may not see that again
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