Depending on amount of ice, getting screws in at the start can be a bitch, I remember Tom Nonis spending an inordinate amount of time there scratching around and complaining while Neil and I froze our asses off and teased him. ( he always had this style of thinking: slow and steady near the ground. NEVER wanted to deck. Get him a rope length off the ground, and it was like he suddenly put on a jet pack.)
The crux for me was just getting off the ground, and stable, in the cave, on the wall on the right. Very dicey, no gear,
and only like 6-8 feet before you can start climbing the crack again, but... The thought of falling onto that cave floor with 'pons on makes it nerve wracking. Problem is, even your best friend won't "spot" you once you are above them wearing spikes!!