best first WI 4 in greater north conway?

[baker0408]

Let's hear it...

What do you think the best WI 4 is to cut my teeth on? I have led a few short 4 pillars, but nothing classic or long yet. I feel solid on 3+ and really want a true 4 (or 2) under my belt this season.

[darwined]

DRACULA

[darwined]

Unnamed drip at Trollville.  The last flow before the mixed routes on the right side of the cliff.  Check out the deer that took a header off the cliff.  Blood and guts all over make for nice nerves leaving the deck.

[tradmanclimbz]

Selson Blue is a real good 1st 4 , Pegasus pillars if they are in are pretty casual? some of The direct lines on Chia are pretty reasonable. 

[DGoguen]

Bob's Delight or Gully # 1 up in Crawfords are a lot of peoples firsts.
The first pitch of Repentance to the rap anchors is a good one too. It also gives you an up close and personal, albeit sobering, look at will probably be your first Grade 5 after a bit of time on the 4's.

[tradmanclimbz]

The more important factor is to do a climb that is in great condition. Conditions are everything for ice climbing. you do not get extra points for doing a 4 in grade 5 conditions

[DLottmann]

Dracula is as classic as WI4 can get IMO... Gully #1 is a close 2nd but took a hard hit... I would vote Dracula...

[baker0408]

so thats several votes for dracula, which was on my radar. however, i've followed the right side (last season)and I've heard it is a bit harder than the left, but the right had me pumping pretty hard. my technique has without question improved, but old memories die hard.

[tradmanclimbz]

 get solid with you screw placeing and V threads then just go climb a bunch. as much as you can and then go have a look at dracula or bobs or selson blue or whatever.  If it feels right you will find yourself topping out. If not you will thread off and feel spanked but happy to be alive

[DLottmann]

The "easiest" way to climb Dracula IMO is start up the left side, double length sling off the pin anchor, then traverse right into the upper right side that allows good stemming. Avoids the steepness at the beginning of the right side and the weirder cauliflower ice on the upper left side... Since we are talking Dracula here's a great vid on what NOT to do:

[baker0408]

Yea I've watched that video 100 times. All avoidable.

[JJ Jameson]

Dracula has got to be it, in the North Conway area.
Do it old school style. 2 pitches. Work your way up the left corner, to the ledge the left side.  Getting up the first 15-20 feet requires some staight forward plug and chug. It is steep, but, you are still close to the ground. Run it out. As you get higher and use the corner, you can stem and chimney and get the weight onto your feet. Take your time, and get some good gear in. Continue up towards the ledge on the left. Before you traverse to the left, climb a bit higher and pop in a screw. Go sit on the ledge and chill. Bring up your second, this gives you loads of time to relax, eat a gel, de-pump, and make a plan for the last part of the climb. Make sure your second leaves that last screw!! Fresh and with a plan, climb back into the corner, clip that screw (aren't you glad it happens to be there?) and stem your way up the final head wall. Before you commit to the top out, use the usually available stemming opportunity to get a screw in just below the finish. Get over the top, don't over reach you placements on the flat ice on the top.... You'll lever out your front points as you over extend your reach and drag your belly on the lip. Just get two solid placements, and walk your feet up until they are on the flat. Stand up, and walk to the trees! U R Done!

[Admin Al]

...stem your way up the final head wall. Before you commit to the top out, use the usually available stemming opportunity to get a screw in just below the finish. Get over the top, don't over reach you placements on the flat ice on the top.... You'll lever out your front points as you over extend your reach and drag your belly on the lip. Just get two solid placements, and walk your feet up until they are on the flat.

good advice... many folks have taken a ride off the top of Dracula, and other climbs, because they were pumped and forgot the basics of surmounting bulges. ALWAYS protect BEFORE the finish and NEVER place your tools too far over the edge as you clear a bulge. also, be aware that the top of a bulge is often crappy ice because it holds the snow and sometimes gets the sun. make sure you get solid sticks at the finish.

enjoy...

[tradmanclimbz]

For whatever reason there is a real stigma in ice climbing about placeing too many screws. I know i am as guilty of this as anyone and find myself apologizeing to my partners if I feel that I sewed it up. certainly there are times when overprotecting wastes energy and may contribute to a fall but at least it will be a short fall.  As AL pointed out one of the most important screws on the whole pitch is the one that protects the top out. Don't be shy, Fire that puppy in and be safe!

[hobbsj]

For whatever reason there is a real stigma in ice climbing about placeing too many screws. I know i am as guilty of this as anyone and find myself apologizeing to my partners if I feel that I sewed it up. certainly there are times when overprotecting wastes energy and may contribute to a fall but at least it will be a short fall.  As AL pointed out one of the most important screws on the whole pitch is the one that protects the top out. Don't be shy, Fire that puppy in and be safe!

Yeah, on one hand a lot of us go on and on about how unreliable ice protection is yet we run it out constantly and feel guilty for sewing it up.  Definitely protect bulges and top-outs!  Best advice I've ever received.