My attitude is that the leader is leading, he/she can put in as much stuff as they want, and is answerable to no one but themselves. That said, I see no point in sewing up ice climbs. If you fall on ice, no matter how short the fall, there is an elevated probability that you will get hurt. As an example, although it is a miniscule sample set, I've taken ~5 lead falls on ice in 30 years, smashing my right tib/fib on one. That's a 20% chance of getting hurt; those are terrible odds. (Does give you an opportunity for practicing new contortions as you try to cradle and protect your leg without looking at it as you're lowered 80' to the ground because the boot and ankle are dangling at 90 degrees from the rest of the leg. I was even luckier than the guy in the video though, there was an orthopedic surgeon climbing the adjoining route! But I digress...) Don't fall. Given that the screws' real purpose is not to prevent injury, which is a crap shoot anyway, but just to stave off catastrophe, there is no point in sewing it up. I'm blissfully happy with 4- 5 screws in Dracula or a similar climb. Others may require more happiness, and that's cool, but I question what they gain. And there is a cost.
Al: A subtlety on stances that I've noticed in the last few years. On very steep/vertical ice you'd love to stand at a little break, but the ice is so steep it pushes you out and you realize little real comfort and relaxation. These days I'll usually stop with the break about waist high, because now that slight break allows you to lean forward and get good balance and you're not 'hanging' off of your tool to speak of, now it's really just for balance. Plus, these breaks typically have the best ice for screws, and because you are leaning forward and are truly over your feet, you can get more leverage on the screw. Wonder if anyone else finds they are doing this.
BTW, on item #5: Screw leashless.
