General > Ice & Winter Climbing

Trollville Mixed grades?


I climbed Dreadlocks in Trollville last weekend (the last, furthest right route) and was curious at what grade that would be? Especially since this is pretty much the first drytooling route I've ever done and don't have anything else to compare with.

Purple People Eater next to it is rated M5 on this site but M7 on mountain project. Dreadlocks is rated M7+ on mountain project.

As I managed to get up to the top, M7+ seems high to me :)  Asking Matt McCormick and Freddie Wilkinson who were there at the time they were guessing around M6, maybe M6+.

Those guys would know.  I also had a hard time trying to figure that out.  For me...I use the screaming at frankie for my benchmark.  I think it's M5 and it feels like hard .10 to me.  So, I guess pick a climb you know and go from there.  I always think the rock comparison works well, as it's something we all know.  Dreadlocks would be in my book maybe 6+ or 7-.  But PPE in the conditions that I have climbed it feels way way harder.  Laying back on ice tools feeling like I was gonna explode versus something that feels like 5.11.  Hope this ramble helps.

Dreadlocks is rated 11d in the new North Conway guidebook as a rock climb. Sounds like around 6+ is the grade then. It's good to know as if I find another drytooling route to know if it's something I should get on.

I was toproping this route (far far from ready to lead it..). Now to find some other top ropable routes in the M5-M7 range as this one was fun!

I think Baby Diaper to the left pf PPP is an 8 and the newer route Seams Thin is maybe a 5 or 6.  I have not climbed or tried it.


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