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Author Topic: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced  (Read 5216 times)

eyebolter

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #45 on: February 17, 2013, 04:28:08 PM »

I've done one hip belay catch of a leader fall.  It was on a short angling 5.2 that my friend had previously climb unroped, so I didn't anchor as he was leading for practice placing nuts.

I ended up higher on the wall than he did, but I did not let go!

What a moron I was.
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DGoguen

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #46 on: February 17, 2013, 07:33:51 PM »

The other was the belay rope, manhole cover was "the climber".
That would be a hard one to explain in Accidents in NA mountaineering.
Why the lifeless belayer had the word "sewer" embossed in the back of their head. Ha
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strandman

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #47 on: February 17, 2013, 08:38:56 PM »

hat's wrong with the hip belay ?? i will continue to use it for some Tr's  .. and esp to impress young chippies
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kenreville

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #48 on: February 17, 2013, 08:42:10 PM »

Hip belays score wimmen.

Who'd a thunk?
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sneoh

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #49 on: February 17, 2013, 09:01:31 PM »

"Everything old is new again" :)
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #50 on: February 17, 2013, 09:04:20 PM »

John Long- " everything is so you get laid,, everything"
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terminusnout

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #51 on: February 17, 2013, 10:51:13 PM »

The first time I ever topped out on the Mordor Wall I rapped from over the fourth pitch roof back down to the sidewalk ledge and pulled the rope out of my rap device before getting in on a daisy to the anchor. Total bonehead move, I think the reason this happened is that when you have both of your feet on the ground after rappelling the first thing you do is pop the rope out of your device, Im just quite happy I didnt lean back.

you live you learn, you die you most definitely dont, someone else does.
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smartpig

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #52 on: February 18, 2013, 12:33:06 AM »

Ken Reville: "Ahhh.... Wolf's Head.Cirque of the lightening rods. I've got my own story on that "5.5". Ha! I can only imagine yours'!
Remember Warbonnet smartpig?
Crazzzieee St.Elmo's FIRE. Like THIS IS IT THE ROPE IS WIRE I"M ABOUT TO VAPORIZE electrical phenomena.
First and hopefully last time I've ever been zapped."

[/quote]

Oh yaha, Cirque of the Lightning Bolts.

Navigating on dirt roads via Big Sandy at night: after the glow of the pipe, Reville turned to Cunningham and said, "Oh, shit, fork in the road, which way to go?" BLAM! FLASH of light.  "That way," pointed Cunningham with his finger.  Reville matted the rental car right, fish tailing the curves in the road and bounding madly over the rip rap bumps at suspension breaking speed.  The two Hunter S. Thompson wanta-bees had begun their day from Logan Airport in Boston.  Drove from Denver to Big Sandy, hiked into the Cirque at night, roped up by sunrise, and climbed some route that looked good on the left side of Pingora all in one frenzied push.

Freaking out in the tent in the middle of the night as lightning bolts blasted all around us. Rapid fire, alternating, black and blinding flashes illuminating Ken's anguished face and stand-up hair. We were certain we would be found as a pile of crispy black carbon mixed in with the melted remains of our green tent and blobs of climbing hardware.  Longest half hour I ever spent with Ken.

Baling Wolf's Head in a lightning storm, arbitrarily retreating off the middle of the ridge, to make a bee-line to the valley floor we were forced to rap from one found manky pin backed up by a rp.  The knife blade wiggled and could only be loaded in one direction.  I drew the short straw and Ken rappelled first.  If memory serves me: I elected not to tie into the anchor while Reville descended. I stared wide eyed at the suspect set-up, looking for any signs of movement that may give me an instant of time to yell down to Ken to unweight the rope and go solo.  I had no guardian to warn me other than blind faith.

....and of course the Warbonnet on another trip that Ken refers to!!!  Ken is on the last lead to tag the summit via a groove (aka a conduit water course) that terminates at a notch just right and 40' below the top. About 20' before Ken reaches the intersection of the groove and the summit ridge, the granite rock begins to buzz, crack, and pop like a short circuiting transformer.  Freak out!!!!!  Ken, who thanks be to St. Elmo, is on 5.3 ground, yells down to Tom Roth and I to take him off belay as he scrambled licitly-split up and over to the other side of the mountain and well below the exposed summit and groove.  Meanwhile, Tom and I being pelted by rain, madly pull off our packs and pile up the rope to stand on as insulation, strip ourselves off most metal hardware, and slacken our tie-ins to the anchor, being sure to not touch the rock with our hands, then wait for the imminent strike.  We were certain we would experience the end of our lives there in one blinding and booming blast of electricity surging skyward from our mortal brains!  Ka-Blam! The lightning blasts the very top of the Warbonnet 80' above us.  We feel the tingly exchange of ions through our feet and all our hair stands on end. Moments later we hear Reville yell, "rope's fixed! BATMAN THE FUCKING ROPE!"  Hand-over-hand Tom and I, each in turn, go up and over the mountain to join Ken on the other side.  We then rappel about 800' down into unknown terrain to scamper away happy to have escaped the wrath of Thor with our lives.  BAM!

A bit of irony: Ken is an electrical engineer!  OHM!!!!!!
« Last Edit: February 18, 2013, 10:11:48 AM by smartpig »
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Jamie Cunningham
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DGoguen

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #53 on: February 18, 2013, 08:14:38 AM »

That's awesome Jamie. Hands sweating just reading it.
Here's mine.
As mentioned earlier we were inexperienced and slow on Wolfs Head. Just below the summit we got a view over to the oncoming swirl of blackness headed our way. It looked like the witches castle from OZ. We too decided to arbitrarily rappell the south face. On the first rappell off of a natural horn, Roger started down, and as I'm standing there the horn started clicking loudly. I remember thinking, huh, that's weird. Then the full rack I was wearing bagan to spark and jump around, uh oh. Blam. I was blown or jumped into the air ten feet covered in light landing back on the ledge. I was on fire, and not in a cool Alicia Keyes kind of way. I was deaf, had no feeling from the waist down and my legs were smoking. I was screaming, couldn't here myself scream, but ran out of breath. I remember thinking, O.K. calm down or your gonna die., then thinking, shit, I might already be dead, I've never been dead before.Ha. Then the obvious, where's Roger. He went all the way to the knots in the end of the doubles. He had been hit also and lost the use of his arms while on rappell. He was out of sight and sound as the storm was still raging. I thought he was gone. I lay there as the sleet built up on me for about forty five minutes. I figured I wasn't going to make it through the night, it wasn't scary, but felt like the end of a Movie, some sense of finishing the story. The shot had blown the sole off my left E.B., entered up my left calf, arched across my inner thighs about three inches below my " belay device" and exited out my right thigh. Looked about medium well done. The storm passed and I heard Roger yell that he lost his arms but they were coming back. This gave me hope and I began to rub my lower legs and began to get a tingle in my feet. I finally rapped down to him. He had landed in an alcove and his hands were burned pretty good. We did several raps to the valley from all the gear we had, cams whatever. The cloud ceiling in the valley was low and the last rap to the ground was in the clouds. We had friends in the valley and the look on their face when we appeared was shocking. A couple of days later we walked into the clinic in Jackson Hole.
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SA

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #54 on: February 18, 2013, 09:23:08 AM »

This thread has really turned into a trip down memory lane.

It could even turn into the type of thread, which you see regularly on Supertopo, about the "good old days."  I know that I could write down, at least 10 cases where things got real bad, up on a climb.

Like the time, when I was in my early 20's.

 I decided to solo Thin Air, just before a thunderstorm was rolling in ----and lost the bet.  I continued up anyway in a torrential downpour, with lightning.

 You can bet  that I was pretty focused, concentrating on every foothold on that climb.
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old_school

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #55 on: February 18, 2013, 10:10:57 AM »

It was about 1980 maybe 1981...had just started ice climbing. My buddy Jason and I had just finished an ascent of Odell's and my feet were frozen solid. I had recently purchased chouinard VB liners that were too big and every time I kicked my feet in, the VBL's would shift forward an inch at a time and before long had curled my toes into a knurled frozen fist. Worried about the feet we decided to glisade down the escape hatch which was a bit firm for the time of year. No one ever told me that it was a good idea to take the crampons off first...needless to say...about 75 yards down the thing at about 40 MPH I hooked a heel and performed one of the most spectacular and acrobatic descent/ death throws ever experienced in the White mountains. Nothing broken but a few tree limbs and my pride. While I gently came to rest in the rocks below I discovered that the violent starfishing and tripple gainers (that I so artfully performed) displaced most of what was in my pack at the time including one of my grivel Patrick Edlinger tools...somewhere in the snows above. It was a long, quiet and dark hike out.  :-\
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strandman

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #56 on: February 18, 2013, 11:21:06 AM »

This thread has really turned into a trip down memory lane.

It could even turn into the type of thread, which you see regularly on Supertopo, about the "good old days."  I know that I could write down, at least 10 cases where things got real bad, up on a climb.

Like the time, when I was in my early 20's.

 I decided to solo Thin Air, just before a thunderstorm was rolling in ----and lost the bet.  I continued up anyway in a torrential downpour, with lightning.

 You can bet  that I was pretty focused, concentrating on every foothold on that climb.

yes Steve, but did you finish up Pine Tree as usual ???
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lucky luke

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #57 on: February 18, 2013, 11:44:50 AM »

This thread has really turned into a trip down memory lane.

It is where I saw the noun sense.

On one hand you telling people that amasing story

and on the other you said: don't climb when it is wet, don't climb when there is wind, don't climb with him he his crazy....

I was been caught by heavy rain in pinacle gully. It was raining so hard that I had to stop my progression, without resting on the rope, because I can't see the next hole in an onsight. And...if I never trained, I won't be able to safe my life (I don't call the rescue and we went to the tipi top of washington.

Weather can change brutaly and every body can be caught.

don't train for that, it is going to save your life and we can't ridiculise the stupid climber (sarcastic)
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DGoguen

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #58 on: February 18, 2013, 12:28:01 PM »

I discovered that the violent starfishing and tripple gainers (that I so artfully performed) displaced most of what was in my pack at the time
Damn brother, that's some funny stuff.
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smartpig

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #59 on: February 18, 2013, 12:48:16 PM »

That's awesome Jamie. Hands sweating just reading it.

If your hands are sweating Goguen, then I just had a total body emersion bath reading yours.  Geez Louise!!!
« Last Edit: February 18, 2013, 12:51:12 PM by smartpig »
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Jamie Cunningham
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