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Author Topic: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced  (Read 5081 times)

old_school

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #60 on: February 18, 2013, 12:50:14 PM »

Damn brother, that's some funny stuff.

 ;D
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smartpig

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #61 on: February 18, 2013, 01:24:35 PM »

Who'd a thunk?
[/quote]
hat's wrong with the hip belay ?? i will continue to use it for some Tr's  .. and esp to impress young chippies

Hip belays score wimmen.

Roger Damon and Dan Brodien, life long buddies, who still live in St. Johnsbury, VT, show cutting edge technique and technology in 1963.  Me, on the other hand, was stuck in a pot hole in Joshua Tree in 2009.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2013, 01:32:49 PM by smartpig »
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Jamie Cunningham
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smartpig

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #62 on: February 18, 2013, 01:33:40 PM »

Old pics in photo above: Roger Damon and Dan Brodien, life long buddies, who still live in St. Johnsbury, VT, show cutting edge technique and technology in 1963. 

Me, on the other hand, was stuck in a pot hole in Joshua Tree in 2009.
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Jamie Cunningham
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DGoguen

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #63 on: February 18, 2013, 03:03:25 PM »

C'mon old timers, you know you have one your holding back.
Afraid to face "The director of training"? :-\
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slink

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #64 on: February 18, 2013, 03:30:23 PM »

Dave it is about time I got the whole story.Ouch. But next time I see you I will ridiculise you and we will not climb as it is dangerous. :) Jamie I love the HST reference must have been a gonzo experience.
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sneoh

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #65 on: February 18, 2013, 08:57:33 PM »

Dave, that is amazing.  Few live after experiencing "Then the full rack I was wearing bagan to spark and jump around, uh oh. Blam. I was blown or jumped into the air ten feet covered in light landing back on the ledge..... The shot had blown the sole off my left E.B., entered up my left calf, arched across my inner thighs about three inches below my " belay device" and exited out my right thigh. Looked about medium well done."
Did you detect a strong smell of ozone (a by product of the intense ionization caused by the lighting)? 
Luckily, I have been rained heavily on only twice while on lead (HighE being one of them of all things).  I did smell ozone once as we were beating a hasty retreat in the face of a violent summer T-storm.
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OldEric

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #66 on: February 18, 2013, 09:33:39 PM »

Wolf's Head epics seem to be popular - all I got there was attacked by mosquitoes - although I did have the usual thunder/lightning/hair-on-end going over Jackass pass on the way out (running from the mosquitoes).

Also classic lightning experiences on the Petite Grepon and the Diamond.  Usual drama - semi fried.  Long ago.
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DGoguen

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #67 on: February 18, 2013, 10:08:22 PM »

Eric, You must have a good one from the revered AMC bucket drop. Preceding the innovative "manhole cover the climber" tradition.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2013, 10:10:05 PM by DGoguen »
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sneoh

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #68 on: February 18, 2013, 10:23:11 PM »

The bucket got decapitated a number of years ago but I heard it was made whole again, just in time to torment more belayers.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

kenreville

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #69 on: February 18, 2013, 10:45:42 PM »

Wolf's Head epics seem to be popular - all I got there was attacked by mosquitoes - although I did have the usual thunder/lightning/hair-on-end going over Jackass pass on the way out (running from the mosquitoes).

Also classic lightning experiences on the Petite Grepon and the Diamond.  Usual drama - semi fried.  Long ago.

Not for nothing Eric..... every time you get "zapped"- stick your finger in the socket, get buzzed from a lightening strike, etc., you've lost a bit of your body's ability to transfer electrical signals- it's synapse. Science shows that it is accumulative. The more you get zapped, the duller you get (so to speak). Usual drama? Hardly. Long ago cause maybe you're cooked?  "OLD" Eric is spot on?
« Last Edit: February 18, 2013, 10:48:51 PM by kenreville »
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strandman

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #70 on: February 19, 2013, 10:15:51 AM »

Who you calling dull ? :D

Sounds like the Winds should require lightening rods.

Synapse Collapse, in the Valley, nice climb but I think the name may not refer to any storms
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OldEric

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #71 on: February 19, 2013, 11:09:18 AM »

The bucket got decapitated a number of years ago but I heard it was made whole again, just in time to torment more belayers.

Yeah the venerable bucket still exists - makes it's annual appearance every April - sort of like a late groundhog.  Breaks a few ropes every year etc.  It has lost a few pieces over the years and is down from a solid 175 pounds to 150 or so - must be becoming a sport climber in its old age.

At least we actually allow the students to use belay devices now as opposed to catching it with a hip belay - cuts down on the shredded shirts and ribs.
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lucky luke

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #72 on: February 19, 2013, 11:24:55 AM »

For belay training before going on a climbing trip, to give a good simulation of catching a fall, we came up with the following:
There was a fire escape on the side of the infirmary .....

But you trained!!!

Better to have belay technique with knowledge than a technique without practice.

I don't say climb in a thunderstorm, which is dangerous, but you can do tope roping while it was raining ounce in a while...instead of going to a gym.

Young climber think that they climb 5.10 in a gym and are able to climb a 5.6 slab. The four pitch of standard at white horse is often wet and could be very hard when you don't master the technique. Doing traverse at the bottom after a rain can help a lot of leader to gain more experiences.

But many of you said it it ridiculous to trained in bad situation because some can be hurt and have to call rescue...and the rescue risk there life... and I don't want to go outside

Better not to be in a rescue team at that price!
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JBrochu

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #73 on: February 19, 2013, 11:57:10 AM »

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pappy

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #74 on: February 19, 2013, 12:31:32 PM »

Unfortunately, my pool of stupid stories pretty much extends to the present, but I did generate a few good ones when I went to the Bugs in the late '80s. We thought we'd start with one of moderates on the west side of Snowpatch. The Bugaboo/Snowpatch col was very icy that year (during our two weeks there were three helicopter evacs from people who fell on it), and I can read a map, so we went around the other side of Snowpatch, cause it was shorter. Icefall? What's an icefall? So, shut out from our original, low commitment objectives we decided to do the SW Corner, which we know almost nothing about and at ~16 pitches is a bit more to bite off. F/U #1. Left our packs at the col, including headlamps, and went with the rope, rack, shirt on the back thing. F/U #2. Blew off our turn around time, cause we were just so close to the top (mostly because I have this learning disability where I always think that pretty line must be the 5.6 crux and usually turns out to be .10 with the 5.6 around the corner). F/U #3. Then as we start down we get blasted by a sleet storm, gale winds, zero visibility, but hey, isn't that why we go to the mountains?

Normally you should be able to downclimb, almost walk down, the rock next to the snowpatch itself, but everything is now verglassed so we've got to rap everything. The first few pitches of the SW corner follow a narrow ridge before abutting the main bulk of the mountain with the huge east and south faces sweeping away to either side: Descending the route, (which no one ever does, but our packs are down there) it is imperative that you find the top of that ridge. We get below the snowpatch, and Mark disappears down the rope into the gloom and clouds. There is no possible communication, and the rope stays taut for a looong time, and it's now getting dark. Finally it goes slack, but I'm shivering so violently it takes like five minutes just to rig my device, then I rap into the gloom, sleet stinging my face, and the wind whipping the ropes out to the side.

And we're fucked. We are in fact out on the east face, the rappel is free hanging, it is many hundreds of feet of vertical rock to the glacier, and Mark is way over to the left on a tiny stance with his arms wrapped around a big loose flake and no anchor. Seems when he realized we were too far east he tried to traverse over to the ridge and wound up taking a huge swing out on the face with about two feet of rope left in his hand--which must have been exciting, we never tied knots in the ends in those days--and he's not going anywhere if I don't get him. But all I've got to work with is a flared vertical crack, and it's now too dark (like 15 min. to full dark) for me to tell by sight whether a piece is any good, so I just start firing in nuts, five of them I think, yanking and beating on them until I figure one of them has to be good. Mostly I remember when it came time to pull the ropes, 'Oh god, please don't let this get stuck, or we are gonna die.'

A week later we get slammed by six inches of snow on the Beckey/Chouinard. As I rapped the big dihedral in the snow (another free hanger) with this huge friggin' pack (Mark's fault, he's a caver by upbringing and cavers, especially cavers from the south, are all bat sh!t crazy with bizarre ideas of what is necessary equipment. I've got this huge pack, but no stove, tent, or sleeping bag. Don't ask.) I flip over, hanging up side down, the wind slamming me from side to side, and I remember thinking, 'you just don't f$cking learn do you,' and, 'I'll bet it would be cool to have some sort of back up right about now.'
« Last Edit: February 19, 2013, 12:43:04 PM by pappy »
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