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Author Topic: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced  (Read 3981 times)

strandman

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #90 on: February 20, 2013, 09:58:09 AM »

And why exactly did i stop ice climbing ??? Gripper D

The prow, winter '77/78. Tom c and I decided to try aid climbing, I had never done any and he maybe 2 pitches. Great gear, pile jackets, hiking boots etc. I did p1 & 2 combo, Tom came up and led off.. guess what ? it startd to rain, what a shock, then sleet and ice.
Off belay ! and now I;m screwed because i have never used jumars before, nice diagonal and slipping all the way. i don't know how long it took but the gloves had frazen on to the jugs and we had to barehand the rap set up.. hanginging belay of course.

I guess this is what hypothermia is like.. we tied two big loops of fig 8 in the ropes and clipped together with biners.. like 3 of them and off into the Big Flush
We couldn't coil the ropes and dragged them through the woods to the van.. Good old VW heater. between that and some 151, i think we got colder.
good thing Daisie's had 40 cent beers back then..
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WharfRat

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #91 on: February 20, 2013, 10:47:11 AM »

Sounds like good times to me!!

And why exactly did i stop ice climbing ??? Gripper D

The prow, winter '77/78. Tom c and I decided to try aid climbing, I had never done any and he maybe 2 pitches. Great gear, pile jackets, hiking boots etc. I did p1 & 2 combo, Tom came up and led off.. guess what ? it startd to rain, what a shock, then sleet and ice.
Off belay ! and now I;m screwed because i have never used jumars before, nice diagonal and slipping all the way. i don't know how long it took but the gloves had frazen on to the jugs and we had to barehand the rap set up.. hanginging belay of course.

I guess this is what hypothermia is like.. we tied two big loops of fig 8 in the ropes and clipped together with biners.. like 3 of them and off into the Big Flush
We couldn't coil the ropes and dragged them through the woods to the van.. Good old VW heater. between that and some 151, i think we got colder.
good thing Daisie's had 40 cent beers back then..
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strandman

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #92 on: February 20, 2013, 11:02:35 AM »

Sure was.. i went aiding ONE more time.. learned the Yosemite aid method later.. much better.
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eyebolter

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #93 on: February 20, 2013, 06:10:42 PM »

Well I've got a ton of dumb ass stories; here is just one.

It is 1977, I'm in high school.   I've only been ice climbing a few times. I drive up to Crawford Notch with my older buddy in his 20's.  We smoke a bunch of pot (a recurring theme in my early epics), and head up cinema gully.  We wanted to set up a belay but it was super - thin, no apparent anchors, so we kept climbing.  My buddy went straight up an ice flow, I went right up a snow ramp.   The ramp dead-ends, so I'm trying to traverse left with my tools in frozen mud, my crampons skating on verglassed rock.  My buddy is safe, only about 20 feet away on the ledge at the top of the route, saying "come on!", but he can't help me as I have the rope in my pack.   

I look down between my feet and panic seeing the railroad and the highway far below me.  I'm slamming my left hand tool into the frozen dirt, again and again, trying to get it to stick, when I realize that the pick of my Simond hammer (google it if you want to see a bad ice tool) has broken off.

Somehow I claw my way over to my buddy and collapse in a heap, drenched in sweat. 

Never been back to Cinema.  However, on every sport route I've put up since then I have used that same hammer because it has a handy clip-in loop at the bottom.  I'm still using it.

 
« Last Edit: February 20, 2013, 06:28:05 PM by eyebolter »
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JBrochu

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #94 on: February 20, 2013, 07:35:55 PM »

I thought of this one because of the accident in the gully under Dracula.

The first time I went up into the Ravine was sometime around '95.  My partner was experienced, but I had only been dragged up a couple of ice routes by Hurley and Shimburg the month prior. (No rock experience either -- started climbing ice first.)

Anyway I was following my partner to the start of Yale, and we approached it by heading up toward the fan then traversing hard right under the rock buttresses. The snow was hard and icy in spots, but our crampons and tools were still strapped to our packs. We got to one particularly sketchy looking spot where I thought crampons or at least a tool would be nice, but my partner didn't even slow down and just crossed it by edging in with the side of his boots. I felt uncomfortable but didn't want to seem like a wimp so followed. Made it about three or four steps before my feet popped and I was off like a rocket headed for the boulder field. Slid a hundred feet or a little more and luckily was able to grab a few bushes (ripping some branches off) to slow down before hitting anything too hard.

That was the last time I let the possibility of looking like a wimp influence any of my decisions.

Edit: Also then led some pitches, and I remember when my partner handed me the rack I was concerned because it had some pitons on it and I thought they were not allowed. My partner thought that was pretty funny worrying about driving pitons in Yale Gully.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2013, 07:41:07 PM by JBrochu »
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DGoguen

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #95 on: February 21, 2013, 07:35:31 AM »

Pancakes to Pie?
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frik

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #96 on: February 21, 2013, 10:12:27 AM »

Bristolpipe... it that you?
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Old Mans Ghost

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #97 on: February 21, 2013, 10:28:08 AM »

Bristolpoop... it that you?

Fixed your post.
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pappy

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #98 on: February 21, 2013, 12:19:18 PM »

Once you get me started…another not young and not climbing, but super inexperienced. It’s just too damn hot to climb in the summer down south, and we were always looking for something cooler. This time it was white water kayaking. Despite the fact that I had never done it before (played a little in canoes on Class 2-3 water many moons before, but no kayaks), my badass whitewater climbing buddies decided that for my first effort we should shoot Section IV of the Chattooga, which is a world famous Class 4/5 run. Think Deliverence, part of which was filmed on the Chattooga. (You may detect a theme here. I always thought that Stegg was our version of Mikey from the old Life cereal commercials: ‘We’ll get Shannon to do it, he’ll try anything.’ As my buddy Steve told me later, ‘No dude, that’s you.’)
There is a deep pool at the top of IV, and the three guys I was with (including Steve) undertake teaching me to roll. I didn‘t notice because I was too busy trying to avoid drowning, but during this session a guided raft trip from NOC floats into the pool after finishing Section III. Steve tells me later that the guides, upon observing someone learning to roll (or not) at the top of IV, exchange worried, disbelieving looks, but, screw it, they’re guides which automatically makes them busybody know-it-alls.  :-* I can’t get it at all, though. I have to visualize an action before I can do it, and the geometry of rolling is just too weird. After 15-20 min. we say screw it, this is boring, let’s do it. So off we go.
It is relatively low water, we may be crazy but not entirely stupid, and I get to walk around a couple of runs and I go swimming a couple of times, but it is cool. Then we come to a class 5 rapid called ‘Corkscrew’ (I assume a description is unnecessary). We land river left to scout the run, which seems a little pointless to me, cause I ain’t running it regardless, and after a minute Steve says, ‘OK, we’ll walk around this one.’ Then he tells me we have to cross to river right to portage.
Now we landed right at the entrance to Corkscrew, and it’s a deep swift channel between me and the other side of the river, so I’m, like, how do we do dat? Steve says, ‘We’ll ferry across.’ Ferry? Evidently there are a few other holes in my knowledge besides rolling. As he quickly explains to me, you diagonal upstream to get across. Sounds simple enough, and he zips across, though I’m a little nervous because we are literally 20-30’ above the intake for Corkscrew.
The key to ferrying is to keep the tip of the boat pointed upstream, but one of the problems tyro kayakers have with a whitewater boat is making the MF go straight. And when I’m about halfway across that tip veers downstream and the current catches it, and the boat whips around and starts rolling over and I know I’m going to die. It’s on its side before I’m able to give a huge adrenalin stoked back stroke to keep it up and whip it further around and now I’m facing straight into the maw of the beast, but back into a good ferry position, just backwards. But I’m operating on pure adrenalin now and I’m a back stroking monster and a few swift strokes and I practically run the boat on top of the rocks on the other side.
Steve’s sitting on his kayak and says calmly, ‘Damn Jim, your whole life just flashed before my eyes.’ This affair probably doesn’t even make the top half dozen, but it was such a cool line.
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sneoh

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #99 on: February 21, 2013, 01:50:55 PM »

Damn, that is a good line indeed Pappy.
Close call.
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Admin Al

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #100 on: February 22, 2013, 02:21:22 PM »

‘Damn Jim, your whole life just flashed before my eyes.’

LOL... Love that one
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perswig

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #101 on: February 22, 2013, 06:42:57 PM »

Will you guys knock off the scary climbing shit?
If my mom ever sees this thread, she'll stop signing my permission slip for after-school trips to the climbing wall at the Y!

(Hi, MOM!  I have no idea what happened to your bottle of Dilaudid, honest!)
Dale


(cool thread!)
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

strandman

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #102 on: February 22, 2013, 09:16:44 PM »

the first guidebook my Mom ever saw was the Webster'96   .. she was horrified
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kenreville

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #103 on: February 22, 2013, 11:19:44 PM »

January 1986. Myself and smartpig (Jamie Cunningham), both living (at the time) in the greater Boston area, are "camped out" in the unoccupied front porch of the very infamous "Red House", in Keene Valley NY (I'll let James fill in the details on that).

We were drinking beers eating pubgrub at the Elm Tree Inn in Keene, when I proposed to JC that we should go climbing. And climbing we did.

Starting out at the base of the Spider's Web at 9:00pm, half cocked, with a shitload of gear, we made the approach. In a blizzard.

With our headlights barely cutting through the falling snow, we chose "TR" as our objective.

Looking up, I told Cunningham- looks like your lead. After getting snuggled in a sleeping bag I'd carried along I readied myself to belay him on the head-lighted aid assualt. I fell asleep often only to be awoken by "rope"....."rope"....."Rope"...."ROPE"....YOOO WTF!!!! Alright. Alright. Alright. Here's some rope. <yawn>

We topped out at 6:30am.
 
« Last Edit: February 23, 2013, 12:01:01 AM by kenreville »
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strandman

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Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
« Reply #104 on: February 23, 2013, 09:46:37 AM »

Jesus Ken, what did you  expect ? Climbing and drinking with a Scot ?!

Shit, i;m part Scot
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