General > General Climbing

Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes

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Some routes just get done over and over again, even ones that are mediocre if they are in the right location. Other fantastic ones never or seldom get repeated. Which neglected NH routes do you think are super good and deserving of more repeats? I am talking well protected ones, not some X rated run out horror show.

Why do you think they don't get action? Too far for most people? Nothing else good around them or no warm-ups? Need a recleaning or fixed gear replaced? Or just freaking hard so people have tried, but can't get up them?

And finally and more importantly, any serious plans to get out and do any of these this year?

No x rated routes ??? I'm sad

Howabout strong R's ??

Or slabs ? no ?

I'm out of ideas

Slabs are OK. It is kind of obvious why death routes don't get repeated often though.

I am usually all into doing FAs or freeing aid routes so I don't have many to mention except the usual suspects out at Greens and Owls. The commitment needed to get to them is probably the main reason they don't get repeated and the fact that many are just hard enough to keep many of the local adventurous climbers from trying them.

One of my routes that I thought was great, but may never have been repeated is 'As the World Burns'. I put it up 12 years ago and thought people would be all over it. It is a wild, steep 2nd pitch 12b sport route right on the Main Cliff of Rumney. Last I was on it, it felt pretty intimidating and I backed off, but the bolts are huge glue-ins and I think it is pretty safe. There are lots of climbers who are more ballsy than me. The only thing I can think of is it is a second pitch and doesn't have fixed draws draped all over it and it has a couple obvious work bolts and a pin that I used for prepping it and never got back to remove. If you clipped them you would get bad rope drag. Get on it folks! You will feel the burn!

I want to get on 'Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn' again, but I am waiting for Dave to replace the bolts and get a TR set up for me  :D It kicks everbody's butts so far.

i was thinking of things like candidus on Cathedral 13C R.. Tim says it;s brilliant

Free Finale.. the Arete.. both fine

I do agree about distance though.. how many of the routes at Greens, Owl and the Captain get done ?? Maybe more than we think ?

Or even Sundown back cliff.. SO good


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