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Author Topic: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes  (Read 2491 times)

M_Sprague

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Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« on: February 16, 2013, 04:52:10 PM »

Some routes just get done over and over again, even ones that are mediocre if they are in the right location. Other fantastic ones never or seldom get repeated. Which neglected NH routes do you think are super good and deserving of more repeats? I am talking well protected ones, not some X rated run out horror show.

Why do you think they don't get action? Too far for most people? Nothing else good around them or no warm-ups? Need a recleaning or fixed gear replaced? Or just freaking hard so people have tried, but can't get up them?

And finally and more importantly, any serious plans to get out and do any of these this year?
« Last Edit: February 16, 2013, 04:58:50 PM by M_Sprague »
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strandman

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2013, 05:09:11 PM »

No x rated routes ??? I'm sad

Howabout strong R's ??

Or slabs ? no ?

I'm out of ideas
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M_Sprague

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2013, 06:11:56 PM »

Slabs are OK. It is kind of obvious why death routes don't get repeated often though.

I am usually all into doing FAs or freeing aid routes so I don't have many to mention except the usual suspects out at Greens and Owls. The commitment needed to get to them is probably the main reason they don't get repeated and the fact that many are just hard enough to keep many of the local adventurous climbers from trying them.

One of my routes that I thought was great, but may never have been repeated is 'As the World Burns'. I put it up 12 years ago and thought people would be all over it. It is a wild, steep 2nd pitch 12b sport route right on the Main Cliff of Rumney. Last I was on it, it felt pretty intimidating and I backed off, but the bolts are huge glue-ins and I think it is pretty safe. There are lots of climbers who are more ballsy than me. The only thing I can think of is it is a second pitch and doesn't have fixed draws draped all over it and it has a couple obvious work bolts and a pin that I used for prepping it and never got back to remove. If you clipped them you would get bad rope drag. Get on it folks! You will feel the burn!
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M_Sprague

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2013, 06:18:19 PM »

I want to get on 'Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn' again, but I am waiting for Dave to replace the bolts and get a TR set up for me  :D It kicks everbody's butts so far.
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strandman

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2013, 06:59:24 PM »

i was thinking of things like candidus on Cathedral 13C R.. Tim says it;s brilliant

Free Finale.. the Arete.. both fine

I do agree about distance though.. how many of the routes at Greens, Owl and the Captain get done ?? Maybe more than we think ?

Or even Sundown back cliff.. SO good
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sneoh

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2013, 07:20:34 PM »

Mark, this is your description for ATWB on mp.com -
"The Thin Man Anchors can be reached by climbing Underdog or Peanutman and traversing left. From the anchors head left and up a steep face, then make a pumpy traverse right under a roof before pulling it and tackling the final steepness to gain a nice belay ledge. If continuing up The Thing, belay here. If not walk right to the other anchors and bring your second up. Rap from here with a 60m rope. You can lower from the left hand anchors if you have a 70m or tram in back to Thin Man, pull your rope, and rap again."
Not exactly a cakewalk to get down from it (I think "bring your second up" part deters most parties).  Face it, 99% of Rumney climbers are content to do single pitch stuff all day.  I happen to think Rock Du Jour, Stairway To Heaven, High Roller, even Mister Meiner are all very good P2 climbs.  But all these see a mere fraction of traffic compared to much more mediocre one-pitch jobs at the Main Cliff.

Speaking of P2, what is the deal with Via Ferrata?  Does the broken hold make one of the first bolts pretty spooky to clip? I have been wanting to get on it for YEARS now.  Be my rope gun?



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M_Sprague

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2013, 07:56:28 PM »

Not too many New Englanders who can do 13c r trad, only a handful that I can think of besides Jay and Tim; Joe Terravecchia, Matt McCormick, Peter Kamitses.

Maybe I have to go back and make the 'World Burns' logistics sound simpler. It is much easier than it sounds, especially with a 70m rope.

Via Ferrata was not bad last time I did it. You just have to do one more move, grabbing the rail past the bolt and then clipping. You shouldn't have any problem if you don't fixate on clipping. It's easier to lead than second actually. It may be a little reachy for you at the start of the overhanging traverse, but i think you should be able to do it. The holds are positive. I think Olga did it no problem.

If you do Via Ferrata, definitely do the third pitch 'The Thing' if you have the time. It is wild and only a 10.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2013, 08:05:46 PM by M_Sprague »
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sneoh

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2013, 08:03:55 PM »

Thanks Mark for the clipping tip on VF.  It does not sound bad at all.
Perhaps I'll get OM to jump on VF with me.  We will probably punch it to the top with P3 assuming we do not pull a block off on P3.
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strandman

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2013, 09:38:14 PM »

Armageddon  12bR- i went 7 times to get it,, I'm really glad it never got more bolts, etc... A lifetime experience. and you won't die.

Does Fall From Grace on Cannon get many repeats ? 12c, good pro, great rock.. ?
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kenreville

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2013, 10:46:42 PM »

i was thinking of things like candidus on Cathedral 13C R.. Tim says it;s brilliant

Free Finale.. the Arete.. both fine

I do agree about distance though.. how many of the routes at Greens, Owl and the Captain get done ?? Maybe more than we think ?

Or even Sundown back cliff.. SO good

Oh yeah.  :)
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strandman

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2013, 09:57:51 AM »

I want to get on 'Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn' again, but I am waiting for Dave to replace the bolts and get a TR set up for me  :D It kicks everbody's butts so far.

i sure hope this gets a repeat before it's 2oth anny, (this year).  The next pitch may take a while too.

Stairs-  tons of stuff, very high quality
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terminusnout

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2013, 11:08:50 PM »

Corner Pumping Station at Crack in the Woods, totally awesome steep jug pulling protected by good gear and some fixed pins you can back up.

Black Magic at Cathedral, amazing thin corner to offwidth then to bizarre wide roof climbing. A couple of years ago I noticed that someone had cleaned it but I dont know anyone who has climbed it.

Strando is right, Im surprised that more people dont gravitate toward the Alcohol Wall, above sundown, it has great routes on excellent rock with a variety of grades.
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M_Sprague

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #12 on: February 18, 2013, 10:32:38 AM »

Corner Pumping Station at Crack in the Woods, totally awesome steep jug pulling protected by good gear and some fixed pins you can back up.

Crack in the Woods is a crag I really want to get out to this year. Maybe that will get me out to the Painted Wall too to finish my half done project that has been sitting there for years. I have to wait for the birds to leave for that one though.
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DGoguen

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #13 on: February 18, 2013, 11:07:17 AM »

I'm not pulling down as hard as you guys but I always thought Crag Y deserved more attention.
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M_Sprague

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Re: Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes
« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2013, 11:47:21 AM »

Crag Y looks good in the picture in Handren's guide, but I have had people who have gone there who have been around and have a good eye for routes say Crag Y and Sundown's Back cliff are disappointing. What is the deal? Autobot and She-Ra look like they would be sweet.
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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