Are those up on that wall where Mallary put up some routes? Every year I start out the season thinking when it gets hot I should go up and check them out, but then end up getting tied up with other stuff, so still haven't seen them.
I wish somebody would post up information about the cliffs in that area on Mtnproject. Information for that part of the state always seems to get hoarded for an up an coming guide that never seems to appear. Handren's guide proves that good quality ones sell even if information is online. I think it serves as advertising, though having the guide available as a commercial app too is a good idea IMO.
Hi Mark,
Eagle Cliff is the largest cliff south (right looking up from the road) along what is known as "Hound's Hump Ridge", near where the Greenleaf trail hooks up through a notch known by locals as "Eagles Pass." At the pass, the Greenleaf trail actually traverses under a climbable cliff, but the climbers bootleg trail starts about 200' before the "Pass" cliff and climbs steeply up hill through some rugged terrain for about 15 minutes to the right side of Eagle Cliff. It can be tough to find because the lack of traffic.
Mallery's (and Sykes, and one of mine) routes are up hill and to the right side of the scree gully where the Eaglet Spire is. If you known where the Garcia Vega ice climb is, then you will see Mallery's 3 or 4 sport routes to the right (the easiest route on that wall, at 5.10b, is Sykes's). If you go down and right of this steep wall there is a cool arete/ridge 5.11 that ends up, if I remember correctly, Just above one of Mallery's routes. I have a poorly protected and some what loose 5.9 route to the right of this (with some bolts and cleaning could be an ok line- never got back to it though).
To the left of Garcia Vega are three decent 5.9's (trad and bolts) put up by Sykes (years ago now).
Sykes and I are actively working hard on pulling the book together with the goal of having it ready for sale by mid-November 2013. The Notches will be a great companion book to Jerry Handren's, North Conway Rock Climbs, and complete Webster's vision of a Western Whites volume. This book will cover route descriptions for Crawford, Zealand, Franconia, Kinsman, and Olivarian Notches.
Cheers!
P.S. check out Al's review of Jon Sykes book:
http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=review&ReviewID=20010801