Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes

[tradmanclimbz]

I did a route once GU at about 5.7+ I lowered off and bounce tested my gear on the way down. Most of it ripped. the climb did not get repeted for a year.  I talked a few folks into climbing it that following summer and they thought it was a bag of crap and were pissed at me for trying to kill them. I went back up and placed a single bolt on lead (not that it would have made any difference had I placed it on rapell) A bunch of people led the climb that week, the climb continues to see lots of action and  and I have had sevrel people tell me that the climb Extra Stout 5.8- is one of their favorite climbs. A single well placed bolt changed a bag of crap into a stellar climb.

 The same crag, The Flying Groundhog 10+ has crap gear. With the addition of a single bolt it would  be one of the best single pitch thin face leads in the north east. As far as I know it has only been led twice. We headpointed it and a pretty strong boulderer Guy Altzentzer led it after  TR rehersal a few years later.  I played god and made the choice to keep that section of the cliff bolt free.  I feel it is the right choice  yet that  climb is a non descript TR problem instead of the ultra classic it would be with the addition of a single bolt.
 When it comes to summer rock climbing Protection does matter. just ask your mom
Winter alpine and ice routes is a totally different story. Due to the fleeting nature of the weather and the total crazyness of ice/alpine and the fact that lichen, choss, mud and frozen turf are all perfect mediums for ice tools and sheep shagging crazy people it is completly acceptable to label an unreapeted death rout as an instant classic

[strandman]

Define X-

I say you die or wish you were. Not many routes that fit this

Armageddon on Cathedral is not X, it's close but not X. and YES it is a classic, just ask the 4 or 5 people who have led it,why go 7  times for a crap line ? (me)

oneof the route mentioned earlier is a f/a of mine. it has good pro, bolted on lead and on site, the rock is great. Why no repeat in 20 years ? one- it's pretty far from the road and two- it's pretty hard.

Guesss it's not quality  , ask  the people who have tried it

[Admin Al]

I often wonder if Owls Head would attract more visitors if there was a guide book.

I thought you were working on remedying that...

[Admin Al]

Now am i allowed to add seldom repeated routes in Vt? 

absolutely...

[smartpig]

I often wonder if Owls Head would attract more visitors if there was a guide book.

I thought you were working on remedying that...

Jon Sykes and I are working it hard and have about 60% in draft form.  Goal is to get done by November.  To follow along and see some fun pics try this link to the Facebook page I put together (please like and participate, especially if you have new route information, question, and comments. (I will be editing for appropriate content).  https://www.facebook.com/groups/valhallapublishing/

[M_Sprague]

You have that facebook page set so you have to log in in order to look at it.  I am not a facebook member and don't plan on being one.

[strandman]

i agree- if i join facebook, I may see Sycho !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[mopowers]

Black Flies at Green's is an unrepeated route that's often on my mind. The fact that it has never seen a 2nd is a big attraction. It has everything i look for in a route, difficult slab with interesting features to break it up. Its also a bit spicy but not crazy. Mark, i am looking forward to go out there once the weather permits.

I also find many of the Bill Lowther routes on Cathedral and Whitehorse intriguing. Its seems many of them are rarely climbed. I would love to explore the lines but something about Cathedral slab, i just dont have much game. I think its a lot more slick and polished than i am used to. Not enough loose grit and lichen i guess.

Another amazing line that came to me is Spare Ribs at owls Head. I did it a few years ago and i would not be one bit surprised if it had not been done in 20 years. All the fixed gear is completely rotted hardware store junk which makes it a stupid lead at this point. After a few hundred dollars worth of stainless steel and a few days of work, i would consider this one of the best multi-pitch routes i have ever done.

 

[strandman]

SpareRibs is that 11+ (cough) right ?

[strandman]

A tough double on Whitehorse would be unwanted Guests and then lowther's  answered prayers.. both around 12b/c..neither gets done these days.. awesome climbing

[smartpig]

Eagle Cliff has some "Seldom or Never Repeated high quality NH routes," with the best views of Franconia Notch, hands down!

[M_Sprague]

Are those up on that wall where Mallary put up some routes? Every year  I start out the season thinking when it gets hot I should go up and check them out, but then end up getting tied up with other stuff, so still haven't seen them.

I wish somebody would post up information about the cliffs in that area on Mtnproject. Information for that part of the state always seems to get hoarded for an up an coming guide that never seems to appear. Handren's guide proves that good quality ones sell even if information is online. I think it serves as advertising, though having the guide available as a commercial app too is a good idea IMO.

[smartpig]

Are those up on that wall where Mallary put up some routes? Every year  I start out the season thinking when it gets hot I should go up and check them out, but then end up getting tied up with other stuff, so still haven't seen them.

I wish somebody would post up information about the cliffs in that area on Mtnproject. Information for that part of the state always seems to get hoarded for an up an coming guide that never seems to appear. Handren's guide proves that good quality ones sell even if information is online. I think it serves as advertising, though having the guide available as a commercial app too is a good idea IMO.

Hi Mark,
Eagle Cliff is the largest cliff south (right looking up from the road) along what is known as "Hound's Hump Ridge", near where the Greenleaf trail hooks up through a notch known by locals as "Eagles Pass."  At the pass, the Greenleaf trail actually traverses under a climbable cliff, but the climbers bootleg trail starts about 200' before the "Pass" cliff and climbs steeply up hill through some rugged terrain for about 15 minutes to the right side of Eagle Cliff.  It can be tough to find because the lack of traffic. 

Mallery's (and Sykes, and one of mine) routes are up hill and to the right side of the scree gully where the Eaglet Spire is.  If you known where the Garcia Vega ice climb is, then you will see Mallery's 3 or 4 sport routes to the right (the easiest route on that wall, at 5.10b, is Sykes's).  If you go down and right of this steep wall there is a cool arete/ridge 5.11 that ends up, if I remember correctly, Just above one of Mallery's routes.  I have a poorly protected and some what loose 5.9 route to the right of this (with some bolts and cleaning could be an ok line- never got back to it though).     

To the left of Garcia Vega are three decent 5.9's (trad and bolts) put up by Sykes (years ago now). 

Sykes and I are actively working hard on pulling the book together with the goal of having it ready for sale by mid-November 2013.  The Notches will be a great companion book to Jerry Handren's, North Conway Rock Climbs, and complete Webster's vision of a Western Whites volume. This book will cover route descriptions for Crawford, Zealand, Franconia, Kinsman, and Olivarian Notches.

Cheers!
P.S. check out Al's review of Jon Sykes book: http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=review&ReviewID=20010801

[M_Sprague]

Thanks, and I am really looking forward to your guidebook. I know they take a lot more work to produce than many realize. I will be getting at least one copy for my library. 

[smartpig]

Just came across this beauty in the old archives!