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Author Topic: Just back from Baxter  (Read 913 times)

Nico

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Just back from Baxter
« on: February 18, 2013, 04:31:18 PM »

Just back from an amazing trip to Baxter, guided by uber-guide Kevin Mahoney. Skied in 13 miles from Abol Bridge to Roaring Brook on Sunday, pulling sleds with our gear. Monday, up early and hiked to Chimney Pond and settled into the bunkhouse for three nights. Then we did a three pitch climb on the Pamola Ice Cliffs, into a gathering snow storm. Tuesday, up early, still blowy and snowy, and we climbed Furies Left, a technical ice/steep snow climb with a sweet rock finish to the ridge east of Pamola Peak, followed by a slow hike down the Dudley Path to the hut. Wednesday, still a bit worried about snow stability (we saw avalanches Tuesday on the 30 degree snowfields below the Chauvin-Cole Route and other routes with a more southerly aspect) so we opted for Furies Right, the gully to the right of the climb we had done Tuesday. It was an outstanding climb, 8 pitches, difficult ice, ending in a high cirque that we climbed out of up a corner/chimney system of blocky, rime covered rock, grade 5.8 or so, quite challenging especially with the thick rime. Topped out on some really loose rock (sent a big one, not intentionally), tagged Pamola's summit, then rappelled the 8 pitches back, a three hour effort. The first two rappels (70 meters) were over the same loose, blocky terrain, awkward and with the real concerns of not letting the rope knock off a rock and trying to keep the rope on terrain it could be retrieved over without hanging in a crack, oh the horror of that scenario. Headlamp finish and back at the hut at 7 - what a climb! Skied out the next day. Kevin gave us great climbing in conditions that might have kept some guides off the mountain. The big face in the North basin had a smear from top to bottom, and it had fattened when we saw it on the way out - and the one to looker's right had reached the floor. Apparently these rarely form and may never have been climbed - there's a photo attached.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2013, 04:35:14 PM by Bostwick »
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DLottmann

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2013, 05:58:17 PM »

Nice TR & pics. Love Katahdin. We did “Pamola’s Fury”, which by the sound of your report is the same route as “Furies Right” a couple years ago because avalanche conditions kept us off Cilley-Barber, or anything right of Waterfall. Kevin is supa-uber!
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Bill

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2013, 08:28:14 PM »

Thanks for sharing.  Sounds like a great time. Way to get out and get it done!  Shared a hike down from the top of Cannon a couple of years ago with Kevin.  You definitely were in good company.  Inquiring minds want to know, any special libations shared at Chimney Pond? You can always link into Beer or Booze Thread or the soon to be mounted Fine Wine thread.  I am a bit focused on alcohol but a good hot chocolate or special coffee or tea reference would be welcome as well!
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Admin Al

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2013, 11:03:35 PM »

what a great trip, thanks for sharing...
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Al Hospers
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Nico

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2013, 07:49:10 AM »

Thanks for sharing.  Sounds like a great time. Way to get out and get it done!  Shared a hike down from the top of Cannon a couple of years ago with Kevin.  You definitely were in good company.  Inquiring minds want to know, any special libations shared at Chimney Pond? You can always link into Beer or Booze Thread or the soon to be mounted Fine Wine thread.  I am a bit focused on alcohol but a good hot chocolate or special coffee or tea reference would be welcome as well!
Sure, I brought a half liter of Johnny Walker Red - could have used a mite more. I usually bring hot tea (black or peppermint) on climbs, in a nalgene/cozy. A nice thing, that a friend turned me on to, was instant miso soup almost every night as part of dinner - Trader Joe's. Just right - a little salty, a little sweet, nice flavor, 2 cups liquid for hydration, easy. For coffee the debate rages between filter packs (made for a drip machine) one can toss in a saucepan or nalgene and let steep (easy and ample) and the Starbuck's Via. I kinda like the filter packs. The used ones are heavy but why not toss them into the wood stove, it'll eat them up.

eyebolter

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #5 on: February 19, 2013, 06:39:18 PM »

Thanks for the report.  I went to school at UMO at Orono.  Never climbed Kathadin in winter; we would drive all the way to Huntington Ravine instead because of all the Gestapo regulations.  How do I know what the weather will be like in six weeks? 

Maybe it is better now, at least a little.
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strandman

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2013, 06:47:46 PM »

EYE- you looking at all those boulders ????

watch out for George hurley and his "wee bit of claret"
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neiceclimber

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2013, 11:37:07 AM »

Nice report, thanks.
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2013, 08:13:17 PM »

cool TR man. that second photo of the rime ice is way cool looking
 8)
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Nico

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2013, 03:57:02 PM »

Here's a little video I put together, 4 minutes.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXVquByDfQ4

Admin Al

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Re: Just back from Baxter
« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2013, 09:32:00 PM »

Here's a little video I put together, 4 minutes.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXVquByDfQ4

Very cool, so to speak. Great views of the neatest place ever...
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Al Hospers
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