Author Topic: Bouldering Season is here!  (Read 4617 times)

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Bouldering Season is here!
« Reply #75 on: April 03, 2014, 04:25:46 AM »
Ella must be getting pretty good at spotting by now  ;D
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Bouldering Season is here!
« Reply #76 on: April 03, 2014, 08:22:33 AM »
I would love to be able to play hookey from work today and tomorrow.  Work sucks.
Speed Boulder, Ward?  If I did not know better, I'd say you are nuts.  You must really own 16 crash pads and intend on deploying all of them in the crash zone.


With age comes wisdom.  I did it in two overlapping pitches 12 years ago on a toprope with pads on the boulder behind you.   That will be my style of attempt.  The crux is pretty close to the top, and if you don't stick the dyno to the small crimps you might, 45 degree wall style, not let go of the better hold below you until last and then fall all the way down into the hole.   Most of the people who have done the route are capable of flashing it - I'm not. 

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Bouldering Season is here!
« Reply #77 on: September 03, 2014, 12:28:03 PM »
Found a new boulder at Farley if you can believe it, although a (gasp) slab.  Mostly V1 to V3; this is Dr. Johnson on "Edged out," V2.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2014, 12:30:24 PM by eyebolter »

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Bouldering Season is here!
« Reply #78 on: September 03, 2014, 12:33:10 PM »
Same route looking down.   

Offline sneoh

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Re: Bouldering Season is here!
« Reply #79 on: September 03, 2014, 04:50:08 PM »
Ward, lest you forget; "friends don't let friends climb slabs".
I have to say it looks like a fun low angle face!  Nice find and scrubbing!!

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Bouldering Season is here!
« Reply #80 on: September 03, 2014, 05:19:40 PM »
Ward, lest you forget; "friends don't let friends climb slabs".
I have to say it looks like a fun low angle face!  Nice find and scrubbing!!

I used to be a slab master of sorts...my first 5.12 onsight was a slab.   I have been climbing steep stuff for so long that V2 slab seems pretty damned hard, especially without any chalk.

I did't mention the nearby overhanging project with two mono moves on it....my tendons still hurt.

Somehow I get in that special mood and wander through the woods and manage to find all kinds of stuff...

Offline joev9

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Re: Bouldering Season is here!
« Reply #81 on: September 17, 2014, 09:35:52 AM »
Last time I was at Farley, it seemed to me that there was potential for new problems right along the trail (like to the left and up from where the parking lot trail meets the bouldering trail) or maybe problems that had been climbed have regrown their lichen???  Maybe it's just my Lincoln woods mentality that every piece of rock should have a problem....

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Bouldering Season is here!
« Reply #82 on: September 17, 2014, 02:06:25 PM »
Last time I was at Farley, it seemed to me that there was potential for new problems right along the trail (like to the left and up from where the parking lot trail meets the bouldering trail) or maybe problems that had been climbed have regrown their lichen???  Maybe it's just my Lincoln woods mentality that every piece of rock should have a problem....

Stevie J and I put up "Larger than Life" this spring, right where you are talking about.  We moved a bunch of loose rock out of the cave and paved the hiking trail there with slabs.  Sit down start, climbs the overhanging arete and highball face above the trail.  If you want to TR, there is a hidden two wave bolt anchor you can reach via the ramp to the left.   Best V5 at Farley in my humble opinion.  It did take two days of cleaning and rock moving but pretty mint now.  We also did a V4 sitdown just left, OK but not classic.


Some stuff was done years ago up and left.  However, those boulders stay pretty wet and vegetated.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2014, 02:14:13 PM by eyebolter »