Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always

[markvnh]

While climbing at Kinsman today a climber fell off the belay from the tree on Shamrock and landed on the snow covered ledge 15 feet below and fortunately was stopped from falling to the ground by the snow. We talked to his partner on the ground who wasn't sure what happened. When we walked by the climber was back at the belay.

Later we ran into them at the Woodstock Station and discussed the incident. Evidently when he clipped his ATC into his locking biner all he clipped was the ATC and not the ropes. He leaned back and down he went. Other than a sore shoulder he was unhurt. And realizes how damn lucky he was.

I don't know what others do but I triple check what I've done and always test weight the rappel before I unclip from the anchor.

More than anything I'm glad the climber was OK.

[Admin Al]

WHEW...

[strandman]

As discussed before.... aren't you still clipped in when putting the rope through whatever device you are using

[JBrochu]

Strandman, it sounds like he clipped in his rappel device loop (but missing the ropes) and then unclipped from the anchor before testing/weighting the rappel. Once he unclipped and went to weight the rappel he went for a ride.

[strandman]

I guess.. i always like to cinch up the rap lines , nice and tight, no slack in the system. This way you actually slack your clip in and weight the rap line.

[JBrochu]

Yeah I do that too. I think that's the point of the OP though -- to remind people to be careful and double-check that stuff, test the rap by weighting it, etc.

 

[markvnh]

That's what happened - only the ATC loop was clipped and not the ropes. And then the rappel was not weighted or tested while still anchored in. Making sure you do that was one of the first lessons I learned 30 years ago - thanks Doug Madara!

[strandman]

Dinosaur alert !!

carabiner brake

[OldEric]

Dinosaur alert !!

carabiner brake

That way you can drop a whole bunch of things at once instead of a single device.

[sneoh]

i always like to cinch up the rap lines , nice and tight, no slack in the system. This way you actually slack your clip in and weight the rap line.

Get out! I do the exact same thing.  Is the wierd or what?

Just glad the guy learnt a lesson w/o a visit to the emergency room.

[strandman]

Dinosaur alert !!

carabiner brake

That way you can drop a whole bunch of things at once instead of a single device.

No- when i rap, it's fixed THROUGH the harness. a big locker and 2 cross biners. All I add is the single brake biner.. belay loops be damned.  Haven't found a better system

[OldEric]

Dinosaur alert !!

carabiner brake

That way you can drop a whole bunch of things at once instead of a single device.

No- when i rap, it's fixed THROUGH the harness. a big locker and 2 cross biners. All I add is the single brake biner.. belay loops be damned.  Haven't found a better system

The nay sayers would claim that if you have the big locker fixed through the 2 harness tie in points that the biner will be cross loaded and you will suffer a hideous death shortly.  I'll say that if you use the same system - whatever it is - consistently that you are bound to be safer AND a biner brake typically gives a much smoother rap then most belay/rap devices.  But just for fun I would like to teach the Strandman-asaurous how to do a single strand counter weighted rap with a Gri-gri

[sneoh]

... how to do a single strand counter weighted rap with a Gri-gri

What?  Like from the "knife ridge" of Seneca or something like that? 
Is it a Zebby concoction?  It can't be safe and can only end in tears!
 

[strandman]

Igo through the leg loops and then up through the belt .. leftover from the swami days i guess

[OldEric]

... how to do a single strand counter weighted rap with a Gri-gri

What?  Like from the "knife ridge" of Seneca or something like that? 
Is it a Zebby concoction?  It can't be safe and can only end in tears!

Yeah Zebby would lower Rachel like a sack of potatoes to the next stance with instructions to keep her end weighted.  Then he would single strand gri-gri rap on the other half.  You could claim that if the anchor was sketch this technique puts twice the weight on it.  But practically they would get down way faster then your average party of two joe punters.  And they did it with a single gri-gri which is all they ever had between them.