NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: [1] 2 3   Go Down

Author Topic: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always  (Read 1814 times)

markvnh

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 209
Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« on: February 18, 2013, 10:18:07 PM »

While climbing at Kinsman today a climber fell off the belay from the tree on Shamrock and landed on the snow covered ledge 15 feet below and fortunately was stopped from falling to the ground by the snow. We talked to his partner on the ground who wasn't sure what happened. When we walked by the climber was back at the belay.

Later we ran into them at the Woodstock Station and discussed the incident. Evidently when he clipped his ATC into his locking biner all he clipped was the ATC and not the ropes. He leaned back and down he went. Other than a sore shoulder he was unhurt. And realizes how damn lucky he was.

I don't know what others do but I triple check what I've done and always test weight the rappel before I unclip from the anchor.

More than anything I'm glad the climber was OK.
Logged

Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7034
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2013, 11:04:31 PM »

WHEW...
Logged
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4543
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2013, 09:16:44 AM »

As discussed before.... aren't you still clipped in when putting the rope through whatever device you are using ???
Logged

JBrochu

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1022
  • Doing God's work
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2013, 09:55:25 AM »

Strandman, it sounds like he clipped in his rappel device loop (but missing the ropes) and then unclipped from the anchor before testing/weighting the rappel. Once he unclipped and went to weight the rappel he went for a ride.
Logged
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4543
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2013, 10:01:21 AM »

I guess.. i always like to cinch up the rap lines , nice and tight, no slack in the system. This way you actually slack your clip in and weight the rap line.

Logged

JBrochu

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1022
  • Doing God's work
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #5 on: February 19, 2013, 10:05:20 AM »

Yeah I do that too. I think that's the point of the OP though -- to remind people to be careful and double-check that stuff, test the rap by weighting it, etc.

 
Logged
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

markvnh

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 209
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2013, 10:06:58 AM »

That's what happened - only the ATC loop was clipped and not the ropes. And then the rappel was not weighted or tested while still anchored in. Making sure you do that was one of the first lessons I learned 30 years ago - thanks Doug Madara!
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4543
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #7 on: February 19, 2013, 10:17:46 AM »

Dinosaur alert !!

carabiner brake
Logged

OldEric

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 387
  • climb on
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #8 on: February 19, 2013, 11:12:15 AM »

Dinosaur alert !!

carabiner brake

That way you can drop a whole bunch of things at once instead of a single device.
Logged

sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1929
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #9 on: February 19, 2013, 05:00:36 PM »

i always like to cinch up the rap lines , nice and tight, no slack in the system. This way you actually slack your clip in and weight the rap line.
Get out! I do the exact same thing.  Is the wierd or what? ;)

Just glad the guy learnt a lesson w/o a visit to the emergency room.
Logged

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4543
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #10 on: February 19, 2013, 05:48:38 PM »

Dinosaur alert !!

carabiner brake

That way you can drop a whole bunch of things at once instead of a single device.

No- when i rap, it's fixed THROUGH the harness. a big locker and 2 cross biners. All I add is the single brake biner.. belay loops be damned.  Haven't found a better system
Logged

OldEric

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 387
  • climb on
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #11 on: February 19, 2013, 08:11:40 PM »

Dinosaur alert !!

carabiner brake

That way you can drop a whole bunch of things at once instead of a single device.

No- when i rap, it's fixed THROUGH the harness. a big locker and 2 cross biners. All I add is the single brake biner.. belay loops be damned.  Haven't found a better system
The nay sayers would claim that if you have the big locker fixed through the 2 harness tie in points that the biner will be cross loaded and you will suffer a hideous death shortly.  I'll say that if you use the same system - whatever it is - consistently that you are bound to be safer AND a biner brake typically gives a much smoother rap then most belay/rap devices.  But just for fun I would like to teach the Strandman-asaurous how to do a single strand counter weighted rap with a Gri-gri
Logged

sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1929
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #12 on: February 19, 2013, 08:16:49 PM »

... how to do a single strand counter weighted rap with a Gri-gri
What?  Like from the "knife ridge" of Seneca or something like that? 
Is it a Zebby concoction?  It can't be safe and can only end in tears! :)
 
Logged

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4543
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #13 on: February 19, 2013, 09:27:14 PM »

Igo through the leg loops and then up through the belt .. leftover from the swami days i guess
Logged

OldEric

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 387
  • climb on
Re: Rappel Mistake - Double Check Always
« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2013, 09:51:58 PM »

... how to do a single strand counter weighted rap with a Gri-gri
What?  Like from the "knife ridge" of Seneca or something like that? 
Is it a Zebby concoction?  It can't be safe and can only end in tears! :)

Yeah Zebby would lower Rachel like a sack of potatoes to the next stance with instructions to keep her end weighted.  Then he would single strand gri-gri rap on the other half.  You could claim that if the anchor was sketch this technique puts twice the weight on it.  But practically they would get down way faster then your average party of two joe punters.  And they did it with a single gri-gri which is all they ever had between them.
Logged
Pages: [1] 2 3   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.142 seconds with 23 queries.