Author Topic: critics and improvement  (Read 2160 times)

Offline lucky luke

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critics and improvement
« on: February 20, 2013, 03:11:08 AM »
Always thought to see the critics first and improve after to meet our goal.

Some improove very fast in climbing, using triangle technique even before knowing how to use there crampon, and when they face the critics, they just be frustrated because they invest time and money with poor results.

I critics the avy avalanche. Here is some improvement I think:

low danger: text explain the site of recent avalanche and localise the path of it when it is visible for each gully. For example, in the second pitch of pinacle, you can see some day a broking line of three feet hight just after the belay. The avalacnhe is about twenty feet wide and his path cross the easy section of ice below where people climb ordinarly.

moderate danger: text explain all the data use in each analysis. As a climber, we often don't have time to dig a tranche and wait an hour to know the stability of the snow. After the data, a short analysis of what you see in the ravine for each gully and zone that most be avoid (snow pocket, powder avalanche, wet avalanche, etc)

high danger: explain that the data is at a critical level in each gully and emphasis on contribut factor, like winds, that increase the danger. particularly attention most be done to warn the climber to the technique necessary to climb safe (route finding between snow pocket, crossing an avalanche path, self belay, self arrest, necessity of a rock anchor, etc)

extreme danger: explain that the rescue service is suspended for a certain period and that the climber who risk an adventure into the wild do it at his own risk. Nobody is ging to help them even if they call the 911 because the danger for the rescue is too hight.

I don't know, but I think that one will think twice before going in the mountain, but as they learned and train...more good cimber will have great adventure??? 

Offline JBrochu

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2013, 09:43:20 AM »
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline OldEric

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2013, 11:24:15 AM »
Truly mad embedding skilz - any 6th grader would be proud.  Plus knee jerking reactions are much more fun then actually thinking...

Offline JBrochu

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2013, 11:49:23 AM »
He MAD!




BTW I'm a little insulted by the phrase "knee jerk reactions." I carefully considered which GIF to use for at least 45 seconds before choosing.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2013, 01:20:44 PM by JBrochu »
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

DLottmann

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2013, 01:56:09 PM »
You mean something like this?



En Fracias:



Understanding this scale, and combining it with the forecaster comments found here, http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/, pretty much covers everything you are suggesting.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2013, 02:01:10 PM by DMan »

Offline OldEric

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2013, 02:13:22 PM »
Just be careful not to click the wrong thing while you are having fun.  We wouldn't want to trigger another random spot device S&R boondoggle now would we?  Technology can be tricky.

Offline JBrochu

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2013, 03:20:02 PM »
Actually that sounds like fun. But what do you mean by another?
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline frik

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2013, 03:33:26 PM »
Erik,
Thinking!
this is a thread started by Luke,
you're kidding right?

It's only self preservation to not think.....

Offline ELM

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2013, 08:43:27 PM »
LOL!!!!!!!! Dman how long did it take you to find that in English and French??? That should be your first post to all of Champ's threads... :D
Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

Offline WharfRat

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2013, 08:46:57 PM »
I cant help but chime in and say this is funny shit!

Bout time you all got your shit together regarding the topic at hand and how to properly tend to it ;)

Sure took you all long enough though........

DLottmann

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2013, 09:03:26 PM »
LOL!!!!!!!! Dman how long did it take you to find that in English and French??? That should be your first post to all of Champ's threads... :D

Stumbled across the french one on accident while searching google images for the right size for this forum... PERFECT!

Offline JBrochu

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2013, 11:13:58 PM »

Agreed.  Does this forum have options for ignoring pics in posts?  I'm in a remote location on dial-up and it takes forever to load just to discover its a flippant attempt at humour that is not funny.


Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline frik

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2013, 09:22:20 AM »
Shemp,

You make a good argument there. But for consistency, you should re-post every everything you don't like.
 

Offline lucky luke

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2013, 12:40:52 PM »
[quote ]
extreme danger: explain that the rescue service is suspended for a certain period and that the climber who risk an adventure into the wild do it at his own risk. Nobody is ging to help them even if they call the 911 because the danger for the rescue is too hight.

Extreme: Avoid all avalanche terrain

[/quote]

I think that the difference is obvious between those two. One is just an obligation of what you have to do: Avoid. In most case, it is arbitrary because you have to decide what is an avalanche terrain. If you don't do it, you will write avoid the mountain.

So, you close the muntain for all activity...

After, that, you will see the same way of thinking between moderate and extreme avalanche. In the accident, one of your said that it is foolish to climb in moderate condition.

I never let some one else take a decision for me when my life is threatening

DLottmann

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Re: critics and improvement
« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2013, 01:35:01 PM »
I really donít see your point. If conditions are nasty one should not think a rescue crew will magically appear if the shit hits the fan. This goes without saying in my opinion. Never rely on rescue, as it may be many many hours away regardless of conditions...

In the case of being avalanched, you have about 15 minutes if you are buried to survive without brain damage... so... who cares if rescue is not coming during extreme danger? Youíre dead anyways...

If you are choosing your climbing route based on how easy you can be rescued itís time to re-think your hobbies...