On Wednesday, the latest Nor’easter rolled through, dropping 15” across higher terrain and just shy of 12” at Hermit Lake.
Fifteen inches of snow.... it is obvious that two or three days later it will be more dangerous than in the middle of the snowstorm wednesday. What was the avy danger between wednesday and friday? Better not know. With the raising temperature, the transformation of the snow pack will be faster. It is not just powder snow that we will have, but heavy wet snow. In my opinion, the most dangerous type of avalanche. Slow and so strong.
Who is guilty? The mountain, the climber or the authority?
In the old version of american freedom of the hill, first to fifth, they never suggest the good standard way to climb. There is no STATE OF THE ART technique. There is just technique for the mountain, there is just a reader who most learn those technique and adapt his knowledge to the situation in the mountain and there is information from the authority, basic data with all the necessary think for a climber to take his own decision.
technique today is just how to climb fast and hard. Bolt, one point crampon, pick that enter very easily in the ice ...etc
the reader today is just a soldier who follow a set of rules. The climber show off on hard route to attrack the young to follow there path. grade 3, like huntington, is easy that any body can do it. If you training french foot technique instead of germain one...you are a ding.
and the avy forecast danger today tell you when to go on the mountain and when is better to take a hike, without any references, most of the time, to the last three days weather that was so important in the version of mountaineering freedom of the hill before the six edition.
We are all guilty. One to let the new generation do a "fast food" learning without training (it apply to sport too) and the other to deny that older knowledge and deep understanding doesn't go to improve your level of climbing, but will bring you safely to your home.