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Author Topic: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10  (Read 2080 times)

xcrag_corex

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moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« on: March 03, 2013, 10:34:20 PM »

Looking for routes to hone my skills on.  Good pro and fun climbing. I'm not affraid to hike and would love to avoid crowds. Fire away with suggestions if ya got em :)
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-Jeremy Ballou

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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2013, 10:48:20 PM »

cannon-

Sticky fingers p1

Whitehorse-

Seventh Seal/ Looselips

Cathedral-

the Slot

bartlett-haystack-

Clear cut Crack
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Admin Al

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2013, 10:52:20 PM »

there's always the 3 5.10's at North End of Cathedral, that's as good a place as any to start. Bombardment is a great 5.8 as well and Intimidation is classic 5.10+. on Whitehorse the Ethereal Buttress is also good, with a classic 10 & 11. the second pitch of Hotter than Hell (5.8) and Tranquility (5.10) are also mega classics. lots to choose from in the 8-10 range right here in the Valley.
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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2013, 09:15:18 AM »

Whitehorse

Avenger
the 5.10 next to it that i can't remember
Powderfinger is decent and a gimmy 10+

Lichen It a Lot on Cathedral is really good... It's written up as a variation to Lichen it a lot but deserves it's own listing. Well geared, great rock et.. 10C

Vultures- hardest 5.10 crack ?  maybe, but good gear and nice climbing
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xcrag_corex

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2013, 12:27:00 PM »

Thank you guys! Did bombardment this past year and it was fun. Looking into some of these other routes. Thanks for the suggestions!!!
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-Jeremy Ballou

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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2013, 05:14:15 PM »

Bomb may be the best 5.8 i NH (fuck moby)
 >:(

Pine Tree is more hands but so good and 5.9 for sure

bartlett-haystack mentioned is pretty good , tr all routes or lead and it's out there so nobody hears your whimpers
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xcrag_corex

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2013, 05:29:13 PM »

Defiantly interested In pine tree this year and as far as whimpering in Bartlett.... I like a little suffering haha
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-Jeremy Ballou

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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2013, 05:46:20 PM »

OH- you'll suffer, remember I did these routes 20 years ago, they may be a little  stiff... very nice 10+   (cough) wide out there as well.

Owl's which is fucking awesome is 30 minutes beyond
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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2013, 06:13:08 PM »

Airation is kinda moderate these days
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tradchick

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2013, 06:57:50 PM »

As an addition to the above, Bon Temp Roulee out at Sundown goes at 5.9 and has a little bit of everything including a finger crack.  Takes gear all the way and is almost a full 60 meters.

Second pitch of Sleeping Beauty (at Whitehorse) is a stellar diagonal finger crack similar to Loose Lips only harder. 
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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2013, 07:10:44 PM »

Thanks trad- i could not remember the name of that line.. even after 3 beers

try the direct to Avenger- Vigilante 10c   TR  ( or x-y skyhook)
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xcrag_corex

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2013, 10:42:59 PM »

Tradchick. I stumbled across a posting about Bon Temp Roulee.... sounded awesome and the guy said great pro the whole way.

Strandman..... As for skyhooks....hahahah i think i'll pass for now :) that might just be a TR for me .
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-Jeremy Ballou

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DLottmann

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2013, 11:13:51 PM »

Bomb may be the best 5.8 i NH (fuck moby)

Slab climb disguised as a crack climb...

Sticky is better... that 5.7 new route on White’s Ledge (Albany) is better than Bomb, though it is also slabby... for pure 5.8 crack on Cathedral I think Black Lung and The Roof has best jamming.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #13 on: March 05, 2013, 06:51:03 AM »

Vertigo with the Crecent moon finish 8)
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old_school

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #14 on: March 05, 2013, 09:56:37 AM »

DMan is correct when he mentions "Go West" at White Ledge. It is a total blast!!! Picture a fantastic and somewhat challenging 5.7 slab with gear at your fingertips for 85% of the way. All small gear, but it is there when you need it. Fantastic little find out there and nothing like I have climbed or experienced out here in the Whites. Truly one not to be missed!
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."
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