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Author Topic: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10  (Read 2362 times)

frik

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #15 on: March 05, 2013, 10:42:16 AM »

On Cannon:
 Virtigo - three pitches (5.8, 5.9, 5.9) of stellar finger cracks if you wuss out an avoid the half moon.
 Union jack 5.9 - rap after the 3rd
 Slow & Easy 5.8
 1st pitch of Claustrophobia 5.8 
 harder:
    sticky fingers  10+ - whatever that means
    Meat Grinder 10+ 

 All of these are on excellent rock and have very good pro.

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DLottmann

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #16 on: March 05, 2013, 12:35:03 PM »

... "Go West" at White Ledge... Truly one not to be missed!

This newly developed cliff is the main reason I'm kinda stoked for the rock season to begin... cant' wait to get back out there!

Go West:



Manifest Destiny:

<Manifest Destiny crack pic removed, too big for this website format> You can see it in the Trip Report linked below.

Trip report from that day: http://davidlottmann.wordpress.com/2012/11/20/back-to-whites-ledge/
« Last Edit: March 05, 2013, 12:37:14 PM by DMan »
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kenreville

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2013, 08:42:14 PM »

How about Birds Nest and They Died Laughing? Mandatory.
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darwined

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #18 on: March 05, 2013, 09:12:02 PM »

How about Birds Nest and They Died Laughing? Mandatory.
  aren't birds and they died HAND cracks though?
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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #19 on: March 05, 2013, 09:28:55 PM »

Last time I checked.. YA

Todd Skinner- ' a good crack is hard to find"
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DLottmann

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #20 on: March 05, 2013, 10:17:01 PM »

How about Birds Nest and They Died Laughing? Mandatory.
  aren't birds and they died HAND cracks though?

Both have lots of finger jams, especially down low...
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wiggins

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #21 on: March 05, 2013, 10:29:12 PM »

 there's a nice finger crack at whites ledge bartlet that's a 10 (inside straight maybe) hunchback crack at lincoln crag's 10a loves gear and fingers,  echo's got a couple great 8/9's think mandrills fingers and 5.9, the horn at pway busy but tr'able, throw your fingers in the whip while your there.
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JBrochu

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #22 on: March 05, 2013, 10:46:07 PM »

That little 5.9 above Upper Refuse is pretty nice fingers.

Edit: I guess it's called "Little Feat."

 
« Last Edit: March 06, 2013, 09:12:30 AM by JBrochu »
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M_Sprague

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #23 on: March 11, 2013, 06:54:52 PM »

Owl’s Left cliff has a few routes that may fit your bill. You will want to wait until after the black fly season though.  I have a nice unnamed 9+/10a finger crack in a corner that is pretty sweet http://www.mountainproject.com/v/nameles-corner/107788951   Jerry called it Nameless Corner in his book. By the time you get out there, I might even have a second pitch ready.
Owling Good Time is a great 80 ft pitch 5.9. The crux is a section of pockets, but the upper half is another finger crack in a corner. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/owling-good-time/106926250
These are both well protected, with bolted anchors.
Most of the finger cracks that are not in a corner out there are quite a bit harder, but if you do the 5.8 corner on the right side of the White Owl face that Jerry called Wingless, and continue angling up left , you can get to the anchors of White Owl 11+ for setting up a TR, a finger crack that is well worth playing on if you want to work on your technique. Continue a little more (5.8+)  to the next anchors (a nice route in itself) and you can check out Ward's 13c face climb too if you want to have a laugh. There are plenty of other routes there in the 5.5 to 5.10 range to fill out your day.


OM on Nameless Corner
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #24 on: March 11, 2013, 06:58:35 PM »

That little 5.9 above Upper Refuse is pretty nice fingers.

Edit: I guess it's called "Little Feat."

Should be called  sucky and short !  Oh wait, that's someone I know  :)
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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #25 on: March 11, 2013, 07:00:14 PM »

mark- you got a lot of shit to do ..and about that other crag ????
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strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #26 on: March 11, 2013, 07:48:10 PM »

Time's have changed- i guess Airation is a moderate finger crack...i used to think it 11C.. really and then good shoes came and you could do "NH" crack climbing IE face holds.. much easier.
Like Heather and Vultures and...

There still is Shadowline. though.. hardest "11" around
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M_Sprague

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #27 on: March 11, 2013, 08:48:18 PM »

mark- you got a lot of shit to do ..and about that other crag ????

You’re telling me, John. I have at least 20 pitches just at Owl's that I am excited to do, a bunch that I already have anchors on, and have cleaned and TRed. Get them done and I bet I would find another 20. And then there is Green's- another 2 dozen easily I really want to do, then Woodchuck, Painted Wall and stuff in Maine, and ...., and then there is bouldering, lol.

By the way, speaking of cracks, there are another 4 or 5 nice looking finger/hand cracks in the 5.9/10 range that I have set my eyes on at Green's. One at the Eastern Crags is a beauty I TRed, a 75-80 ft straight up finger and hands crack. I just need to finish putting the anchors in and one bolt at the bottom and a quick freshening up with the brush. I can't wait to have these ready for folks.
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

strandman

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #28 on: March 11, 2013, 09:05:50 PM »

i used to think it was just psycho (not Sycho) that these outback routes were so good.. i was doing them in the 80's and they seemd really good, but..

Guys like like Mark prove over and over,, some of the BEST lines in NE are a ways from the road. green Peace at green's is about as good a crack as can be found.. period. mechanic's on Washington is so good .10

and to plug- my route on the Captain is the best 11a slab in the state !
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kenreville

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Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
« Reply #29 on: March 11, 2013, 09:14:54 PM »

There still is Shadowline. though.. hardest "11" around

5.11 my ass Mr.Strand. On a top rope it's a twelve move off the ground.
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