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9 comandments of Ice

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10 should be Do Not bring your dog Ice climbing...

One of my main rules for ice climbing is, “If you get hit with falling ice it’s your own damn fault, and you deserve it.” Ice falls; I don’t want to hear a call of “ICE!!!” unless the whole climb is falling down. Yelling “Ice” while ice climbing is like yelling “PUCK!” in a hockey game or something, it’s part of the sport.

that is A Will Gadd quote but it is something i have been saying  for years.  I do not yell ice. if i am climbing ice then ice is falling and I should not have to waste my energy hollering about it..

 I agree with that statement also.I only yell ice if it is a huge chunk that I think will be near my belayer.If you are climbing below me to bad as I will not yell ice,you shouldnt be there. :-*

Admin Al:
Great blog by Will... I'm always surprised when I see this occurring. Around here it's very common on routes like Standard and Pegasus. It also happens on Cinema, but because its so low angle it's not as much of a problem. Years ago I climbed the Dike with a friend who was a much more "experienced" leader. He insisted on following another party, tho it was clear they were knocking off ice and there was no place to hide. He got hit and ended up with a separated shoulder. Lucky that was all...

the lake it is totally crazy how many otherwise strong climbers put their belayer in the bomb zone. They must get strong on steep single pitch and seem clueless about the bomb factor on  the long pillars at the lake.   annother note that lake visitors should take notice of. When rapelling the 1st person down kicks off anything that could possibly kill us. That means big free hangers must go unless you want the 2nd to accidently kick it off and kill you. NEVER hang out under a rapelling party on ice! Ever!


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