9 comandments of Ice

[tradmanclimbz]

http://willgadd.com/ice-breaks-dont-be-in-the-way-of-it-as-it-falls/
10 should be Do Not bring your dog Ice climbing...

[tradmanclimbz]

One of my main rules for ice climbing is, “If you get hit with falling ice it’s your own damn fault, and you deserve it.” Ice falls; I don’t want to hear a call of “ICE!!!” unless the whole climb is falling down. Yelling “Ice” while ice climbing is like yelling “PUCK!” in a hockey game or something, it’s part of the sport.


that is A Will Gadd quote but it is something i have been saying  for years.  I do not yell ice. if i am climbing ice then ice is falling and I should not have to waste my energy hollering about it..

[slink]

 I agree with that statement also.I only yell ice if it is a huge chunk that I think will be near my belayer.If you are climbing below me to bad as I will not yell ice,you shouldnt be there.

[Admin Al]

Great blog by Will... I'm always surprised when I see this occurring. Around here it's very common on routes like Standard and Pegasus. It also happens on Cinema, but because its so low angle it's not as much of a problem. Years ago I climbed the Dike with a friend who was a much more "experienced" leader. He insisted on following another party, tho it was clear they were knocking off ice and there was no place to hide. He got hit and ended up with a separated shoulder. Lucky that was all...

[tradmanclimbz]

the lake it is totally crazy how many otherwise strong climbers put their belayer in the bomb zone. They must get strong on steep single pitch and seem clueless about the bomb factor on  the long pillars at the lake.   annother note that lake visitors should take notice of. When rapelling the 1st person down kicks off anything that could possibly kill us. That means big free hangers must go unless you want the 2nd to accidently kick it off and kill you. NEVER hang out under a rapelling party on ice! Ever!

[DLottmann]

Great post, but I see no mention of the X position???

[JakeDatc]

posted this the other day... Will says the X position is inferior

http://willgadd.com/x-vs-t-why-the-old-x-technique-is-inferior/

[DLottmann]

In seriousness this one commandment is the hardest to intrepret:

"Don’t forget to communicate when rappelling multi-pitch routes with people coming up. Hanging out in space on the rap line while pizza-sized dinner plates go flying by just sucks. Talk with the other climbers, make it all work in a friendly way, it can be done safely but takes open coms, a willingness to work together and perhaps a little more time to do it safely.”

Technically, who has right of way here? A good local example is Hitchcock Gully (Upper & Lower), lots of folks plan to rap it, it’s a common descent route, but if parties are coming up it kinda sucks... I’ve heard of people descending Shoestring as it is much faster than the walk off... but if there are 3 parties behind you?

[pappy]

Subjective, if there is a reasonable walk off you've got no business rapping over someone else because it's more convenient.

[mechanicalchris]

Subjective, if there is a reasonable walk off you've got no business rapping over someone else because it's more convenient.

+1

[Girard]

Subjective, if there is a reasonable walk off you've got no business rapping over someone else because it's more convenient.

Twice this season I had to wait for people to rap off Dracula.

[MT]

"Don’t forget to communicate when rappelling multi-pitch routes with people coming up.

Saw Slink get tagged (in the head, nonetheless), w/ a basketball size chunk of ice rapping a route this winter b/c the party below us simply couldn't wait. The leader of the other party was on a comfortable (read: almost flat) ledge and was dickering around and knocked the chunk off. I was standing at the anchor 15 ft away and couldn't believe that the guy did this. Fortunately, it was a glancing blow and no harm done (though some may say he's still not right in in the head ).

Point being, despite the communication or anything else you do, there are idiots out there that due stupid $h!t.  As critical as it once was to be able to "read the ice", it's probably equally as important in these days of crowded cliffs to be able to read your fellow climbers (read: be weary of GoPros + shiny new gear).

Mike

[eyebolter]

Having almost died ice climbing, my rules of ice climbing are very simple:

1. Go rock climbing

[bubbalee]

falling ice is an objective hazard you try to minimize it for your belated and others below but you also have to get up safely if knocking some ice off is part of that process then watch out below  ultimately you are not responsible for the party behind you they assume that risk by climbing below you

[tradmanclimbz]

Having almost died ice climbing, my rules of ice climbing are very simple:

1. Go rock climbing

Ya. I tried that rock climbing stuff. it was scary