General > Climbing Gear Q & A

9.6 used for Double Rope Technique

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NY Climber:
I want to get into using doyble rope technique especially for ice climbing. I'm just curious if anyone would use a 9.6 as a double rope for double rope technique being I already HAVE one versus say - two 8.2's or two 8.5's?

ELM:
You can use what ever you want...but that'll be awfully heavy if you ask me.

DLottmann:
Agree with ELM... the extra weight kills the advantage...

Out of curiosity... why doubles for ice? There's way less drag already than rock climbing so skinny twins (not doubles/half ropes) might make sense if you need a 2nd rope for rappelling, but there is way less chance of a rope getting cut ice climbing than in some alpine rock climbing areas...

I guess most skinny doubles have crazy elongation so that may help screws hold... but we are not whipping often on ice right? And longer fall = better chance of catching a crampon?

It's all opinion, and you'll hear 20 more in this thread soon enough, but...

IMO a single 9.2 or 9.4 dry treated 60m rope is perfect for every ice climb in New England, and you can carry a 8-9mm tag line if needing two ropes to bail...

Less weight, less clutter, faster, etc. etc...

DLottmann:
Actually, on second thought using a 9.6 as a double is a bit ridiculous as you are not reducing any impact on a ice screw should you fall with such a fatty rope... saving a couple bucks doesn't justify it...

In general, fatter ropes have less elongation which = move force on your pro if you fall... one of the main reasons for using actual doubles if you ask me, that and drag, which is pretty much non-existent in ice climbing...

strandman:
Falling on a 8mm single or similar doesn't seem to cool to me.. ice or rock ..and if you clip them together aka twin technique, then just use a single ?

I would think a single 9.6mm, like dman said is fine

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