General > Climbing Gear Q & A

9.6 used for Double Rope Technique

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NY Climber:
I want to get into using doyble rope technique especially for ice climbing. I'm just curious if anyone would use a 9.6 as a double rope for double rope technique being I already HAVE one versus say - two 8.2's or two 8.5's?

You can use what ever you want...but that'll be awfully heavy if you ask me.

Agree with ELM... the extra weight kills the advantage...

Out of curiosity... why doubles for ice? There's way less drag already than rock climbing so skinny twins (not doubles/half ropes) might make sense if you need a 2nd rope for rappelling, but there is way less chance of a rope getting cut ice climbing than in some alpine rock climbing areas...

I guess most skinny doubles have crazy elongation so that may help screws hold... but we are not whipping often on ice right? And longer fall = better chance of catching a crampon?

It's all opinion, and you'll hear 20 more in this thread soon enough, but...

IMO a single 9.2 or 9.4 dry treated 60m rope is perfect for every ice climb in New England, and you can carry a 8-9mm tag line if needing two ropes to bail...

Less weight, less clutter, faster, etc. etc...

Actually, on second thought using a 9.6 as a double is a bit ridiculous as you are not reducing any impact on a ice screw should you fall with such a fatty rope... saving a couple bucks doesn't justify it...

In general, fatter ropes have less elongation which = move force on your pro if you fall... one of the main reasons for using actual doubles if you ask me, that and drag, which is pretty much non-existent in ice climbing...

Falling on a 8mm single or similar doesn't seem to cool to me.. ice or rock ..and if you clip them together aka twin technique, then just use a single ?

I would think a single 9.6mm, like dman said is fine


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