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Author Topic: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique  (Read 835 times)

NY Climber

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9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« on: March 12, 2013, 03:24:46 PM »

I want to get into using doyble rope technique especially for ice climbing. I'm just curious if anyone would use a 9.6 as a double rope for double rope technique being I already HAVE one versus say - two 8.2's or two 8.5's?

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Michael Urban, RN

ELM

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2013, 04:42:35 PM »

You can use what ever you want...but that'll be awfully heavy if you ask me.
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Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

DLottmann

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2013, 05:29:35 PM »

Agree with ELM... the extra weight kills the advantage...

Out of curiosity... why doubles for ice? There's way less drag already than rock climbing so skinny twins (not doubles/half ropes) might make sense if you need a 2nd rope for rappelling, but there is way less chance of a rope getting cut ice climbing than in some alpine rock climbing areas...

I guess most skinny doubles have crazy elongation so that may help screws hold... but we are not whipping often on ice right? And longer fall = better chance of catching a crampon?

It's all opinion, and you'll hear 20 more in this thread soon enough, but...

IMO a single 9.2 or 9.4 dry treated 60m rope is perfect for every ice climb in New England, and you can carry a 8-9mm tag line if needing two ropes to bail...

Less weight, less clutter, faster, etc. etc...
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DLottmann

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2013, 05:33:05 PM »

Actually, on second thought using a 9.6 as a double is a bit ridiculous as you are not reducing any impact on a ice screw should you fall with such a fatty rope... saving a couple bucks doesn't justify it...

In general, fatter ropes have less elongation which = move force on your pro if you fall... one of the main reasons for using actual doubles if you ask me, that and drag, which is pretty much non-existent in ice climbing...
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strandman

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2013, 06:49:25 PM »

Falling on a 8mm single or similar doesn't seem to cool to me.. ice or rock ..and if you clip them together aka twin technique, then just use a single ?

I would think a single 9.6mm, like dman said is fine
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NY Climber

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2013, 07:37:08 PM »

Because my concern has always been the rope accidently getting sliced in 1/2 by a bad pick placement of a ice pick or - a couple of foolish crampon steps onto the rope in error thus damaging it pretty well.

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Michael Urban, RN

ELM

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2013, 07:34:30 AM »

I think your worried about something that you don't really need to be. You just need to pay attention to you rope and treat it well. If with a single on ice your constantly worried about cutting it...then just buy doubles; that way you have two ropes to worry about cutting  :-\
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Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

NY Climber

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2013, 07:35:55 AM »

I think your worried about something that you don't really need to be. You just need to pay attention to you rope and treat it well. If with a single on ice your constantly worried about cutting it...then just buy doubles; that way you have two ropes to worry about cutting  :-\

LOL.  OK - but then why do I see others using doubles if it's truly unnecessary?
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Michael Urban, RN

ELM

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2013, 01:41:34 PM »

Doubles have their place. They make rapping some routes way easier. They can make dividing up weight in a climbing party easier. If a route wanders you can cut your rope drag down by alternating which rope you clip to gear. There is a place for them...you just seemed focused on a unlikely event.
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Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

DLottmann

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2013, 05:12:12 PM »

Because my concern has always been the rope accidently getting sliced in 1/2 by a bad pick placement of a ice pick or - a couple of foolish crampon steps onto the rope in error thus damaging it pretty well.

As quite a few others have said in this thread, and many threads like it, this really doesn't happen. I've had hundreds of first time clients (some who may have never swung a hammer) and never have they hit the rope while seconding.

I've kicked the rope while leading more than a few times. No damage.

Monday I stepped on the stacked rope to compress it a bit into the snow so it wouldn't slide off the belay ledge... client looked a bit concerned.

1) My crampons are quite dull

and

2) Tests show when a rope is on snow it is impossible to cut it with crampons

I was pushing lightly to compress the stack, I wouldn't recommend doing a rain dance on it...

These things are made to handle the situations you are describing...
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NY Climber

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2013, 05:48:09 PM »

OK thanks for all the info!
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Michael Urban, RN

ELM

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2013, 06:21:48 PM »

Holy crap...you changed your name already?? Well hope you still have your Advanced Cardiac Life Support cert!!
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Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

strandman

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2013, 06:35:27 PM »

Double ropes are fucking useless 99% of the time, if it's that potentially dangerous,maybe you shouldn't be there

Bring a 7mm and have the second carry it
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NY Climber

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Re: 9.6 used for Double Rope Technique
« Reply #13 on: March 13, 2013, 07:46:15 PM »

OK thanks for all the info!

Actually I used my ACLS 'handle' still but it expired b/c I was not longer working in a clinical setting for a long time and had not need for it. Hence the name change! LOL.
I am stictly only BLS right now...
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Michael Urban, RN
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