Author Topic: definitely "safe"  (Read 1993 times)

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1566
definitely "safe"
« on: March 13, 2013, 01:31:42 PM »
or controversial.

You climbed an obvious right-facing flake/corner to an overhang and after you know that you have to climb it to the right. Your last protection is five feet below your feet. No beta on the protection, no beta on the move: 5.10 on-sight.

What do you need in your bag of trick to go over the overhang? There is no bolt.

I would say, for example, enought strength first, and will ask how I can evaluate if I can try it safely. It is a real route that I climbed and strenght was mandatory. 

Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1596
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2013, 02:41:13 PM »
Been on any nice routes lately, Luke? What did you like about them? Any areas others might not know about that you would suggest people check out? I have only been to a handfull of places in Quebec, but that was years ago. I have been wondering what they are like now.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline SA

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 346
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #2 on: March 13, 2013, 04:01:25 PM »
When doing 1st ascents, this situation is pretty typical,---has been for generations.

Remember that old saying, "( when in doubt-run it out)".

Offline mopowers

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 270
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2013, 06:19:38 PM »
Quote
What do you need in your bag of trick to go over the overhang?

confidence

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4713
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2013, 06:21:13 PM »
Stem

Offline sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2086
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #5 on: March 13, 2013, 07:03:23 PM »
Confidence, gumption, good technique, and a good belayer.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 468
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2013, 07:31:34 PM »
Quote
What do you need in your bag of trick to go over the overhang?

confidence

+1
A nice low humidity day is a bonus. Irrelevant though when confidence is high.


Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1596
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2013, 07:31:46 PM »
Magic 8 ball?
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2086
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2013, 07:42:00 PM »
That's right; a good luck charm never hurts! :)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline DGoguen

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 245
Re: Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2013, 09:24:21 PM »
Don't Climb

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4713
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2013, 09:34:38 PM »
Magic 8 ball?

ALL 8balls are magic , Mark

Offline kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 468
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2013, 10:28:15 PM »
Yeah buddy.

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1566
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2013, 03:31:27 AM »
When doing 1st ascents, this situation is pretty typical,---has been for generations.

Remember that old saying, "( when in doubt-run it out)".

In that particular route, I remember that I had anticipated the movement and went to a rest...it was a 5.9 move rest (not good at all) and I had to anticipate the next movement. It was an hand crack in the overhang where you switch your feet from the left to the right, grab the corner and layback, if my memories was good. So much fun...as a first ascent. yep!

I agree with run it out, and it takes balls to do that, but there is a time when you had to decide that run it out is too dangerous? or you decide to solo the route. I used the fall factor and I evaluated the distance of my fall, or I take a look higher and come back to my stance to rest. How do you decide when it is time to run out or solo the move?

I don't like "confidence". It is too subjective for me. You are confident in a 5.11 because there is a bolt, but I saw a guy who can't climb wedge, 5.6, at whitehorse ledge because it was too run out...and wet also...that particular day. I saw a guy in slab direct (5.7) that fall on the firs move and he was a climber of 5.11 too. I don't know about you, but don't you think that the word confidence is too subjective?   

Offline kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 468
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #13 on: March 14, 2013, 08:32:10 AM »
When doing 1st ascents, this situation is pretty typical,---has been for generations.

Remember that old saying, "( when in doubt-run it out)".

In that particular route, I remember that I had anticipated the movement and went to a rest...it was a 5.9 move rest (not good at all) and I had to anticipate the next movement. It was an hand crack in the overhang where you switch your feet from the left to the right, grab the corner and layback, if my memories was good. So much fun...as a first ascent. yep!

I agree with run it out, and it takes balls to do that, but there is a time when you had to decide that run it out is too dangerous? or you decide to solo the route. I used the fall factor and I evaluated the distance of my fall, or I take a look higher and come back to my stance to rest. How do you decide when it is time to run out or solo the move?

I don't like "confidence". It is too subjective for me. You are confident in a 5.11 because there is a bolt, but I saw a guy who can't climb wedge, 5.6, at whitehorse ledge because it was too run out...and wet also...that particular day. I saw a guy in slab direct (5.7) that fall on the firs move and he was a climber of 5.11 too. I don't know about you, but don't you think that the word confidence is too subjective?

Of course it's subjective. What's also subjective is that you can actually make the move, regardless of the run out. If every move you try you make, climbing would be rather boring no?

Offline sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2086
Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #14 on: March 14, 2013, 08:40:39 AM »
"Climbing well" , maybe just climbing is, in itself, subjective. 
Confidence is of course subjective measure, gained through training (trad, sport, boulder, gym, etc), repetition, and experience gained through days on rock.  Not thru debates on the Interweb, I am sorry to say. 

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ