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Author Topic: definitely "safe"  (Read 1197 times)

strandman

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2013, 10:47:16 AM »

Luke- a '5.11" climber who falls off Slabs Direct is either High or maybe , just maybe, NOT a 5.11 cclimber
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lucky luke

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2013, 11:48:40 AM »

"Climbing well" , maybe just climbing is, in itself, subjective. 
[...] Not thru debates on the Interweb, I am sorry to say.

Knowing our limit is certainly important. One can be a good 5.11 on face climbing and a poor one on slab climbing. As I had carpal tunel, I wasn't abel to climb hard crack because my hand opened. So, I won't say that he wasn't a 5.11 climber, but that one of his weakness was slab climbing. If you remember slab direct, there is a piton under a flake and you can place two or three stopper higher and you have a run out of 40 to 60 feet to the next protection. the slab/layback move is very stressful and mak the fall dangerous.

Is it safe to know your limit in different kind of rock or controversial? . The 5.11 climber in "diedra" roof, at cathedral, will rate it 5.10 and, as I am/was(sniff) a 5.9 slab climber, I will rate it 5.8+ becasuse I do a friction move in it. if we do a debate, like a brain storming, I think that we can be safer. If you consider me as an enemy that you must fight, it is not the good place.

In the "art of leading", John Long, one large part of his video is to learn climbing technique. Although it is better to climb every day to learn it, some people, far from a cliff, can need a guide to bring them outside there confort zone. Like when I bring a 5.11 climber in a 5.7 slab to see his reaction under stress. He bail and did it in top rope....feel humiliate...and think that I want to laught at him.

In master of stone, we saw a lot of the technique use by John Long, but done in one movement in marginal hold. I am not sure that master of stone is for begineer?

 

 
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mopowers

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2013, 04:15:33 PM »

Quote
You are confident in a 5.11 because there is a bolt, but I saw a guy who can't climb wedge, 5.6, at whitehorse ledge because it was too run out...and wet also...that particular day. I saw a guy in slab direct (5.7) that fall on the firs move and he was a climber of 5.11 too. I don't know about you, but don't you think that the word confidence is too subjective? 

A bit speculative, eh! I find it entertaining that you fancy yourself as the only trad climber on this forum.

I dont train and consider myself in average to low physical fitness. Knowing my limits and having confidence in my ability has got me through many situations as you described. Confidence gained from experience. Well...that and dumb luck, dumb being the operative word on many occasions.
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DGoguen

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2013, 05:20:07 PM »

I dont train and consider myself in average to low physical fitness.
Dave, If your approaching low physical fitness, I better get over to the clinic, I may be dying as we speak.
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JakeDatc

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #19 on: March 14, 2013, 05:29:19 PM »


What do you need in your bag of trick to go over the overhang? There is no bolt.

to shut up and pull harder. 
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"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

strandman

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #20 on: March 14, 2013, 06:44:49 PM »

LL you talk about not climbing hard due to carpal tunnel- no shit   Everyone has specialties and favorites,, slab, cracks etc. What i say is that if say climb 5.11 crack and fall off 5.7 slab, you are not a 5.11 climber
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eyebolter

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #21 on: March 14, 2013, 07:22:00 PM »

don't you think that the word confidence is too subjective?

I think that the word "subjective" is too subjective.

And "think" is pretty damned subjective when you think about it....

Mares eat oats, and does eat oats, and little lambs eat ivy....
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strandman

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #22 on: March 14, 2013, 09:06:58 PM »

Eye- are you with LL ??? I have no clue what you just said
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sneoh

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #23 on: March 14, 2013, 09:52:00 PM »

From Bubba Bill, what is the meaning of "is"?

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xcrag_corex

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #24 on: March 14, 2013, 10:24:26 PM »

I feel the libations may have kicked in on this thread... I fear ::) that I am lost and I will now never discover what level of climber/ confidence I have let alone aspire to.  ::)
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OldEric

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #25 on: March 14, 2013, 11:24:17 PM »

don't you think that the word confidence is too subjective?

I think that the word "subjective" is too subjective.

And "think" is pretty damned subjective when you think about it....

Mares eat oats, and does eat oats, and little lambs eat ivy....

a kid will eat ivy too
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JakeDatc

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #26 on: March 15, 2013, 12:05:11 AM »

don't you think that the word confidence is too subjective?

I think that the word "subjective" is too subjective.

And "think" is pretty damned subjective when you think about it....

Mares eat oats, and does eat oats, and little lambs eat ivy....

a kid will eat ivy too

yours might ;) 
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"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

lucky luke

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2013, 03:00:55 AM »

A bit speculative, eh! I find it entertaining that you fancy yourself as the only trad climber on this forum.

I dont train and consider myself in average to low physical fitness. Knowing my limits and having confidence in my ability has got me through many situations as you described. Confidence gained from experience. Well...that and dumb luck, dumb being the operative word on many occasions.
I never talked about trad or sport, I just asked what is the ability that you need to climb fasten gun at poko moonshine, a place that can be hard to protect without bolting anchor. (curiously, there is one or two bolt in the third pitch)

For a kid, wanting adventure and glory, the topic can be interesting. It is not when you can kill yourself that it is the good time to answer questions. It is why I wrote "definitely safe"

gained from experience and gained by climbing in a gym is not the same confidence. As an onsight climber, I am more interesed by which experience you did to gain confidence. Ed Webster climbed at Barber wall and try to place as much protection as they can in difficult situation to gain confidence an master the technique to place pro. And, I like to climb with other people like ed webster
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hobbsj

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #28 on: March 15, 2013, 08:02:07 AM »

Go and get my belayer to do it-- 5.10 is hard for me and I'm weak as a kitten.
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eyebolter

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Re: definitely "safe"
« Reply #29 on: March 15, 2013, 08:15:06 AM »

don't you think that the word confidence is too subjective?

I think that the word "subjective" is too subjective.

And "think" is pretty damned subjective when you think about it....

Mares eat oats, and does eat oats, and little lambs eat ivy....

a kid will eat ivy too

Wouldn't you?

Glad somebody here gets it!
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