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Author Topic: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????  (Read 1327 times)

lucky luke

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #15 on: March 15, 2013, 03:09:55 AM »

NO , learning how to rap with a 150' is plain stupid..

Learning to rap 60 meters from bolt anchor and you will always need bolt, learning to rap with a 50 meter and you will always in better situation. In a rap, my rope was stuck in a flake above us. we had to cut it.

For a beginer, it is an exercises. In yosemtie, last september, I toped out royal arches and didn't find the trail. We rap with a 50 meters in the dark. Thirsty, but safe. we arrived at two or three o'clock at camp four.
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NY Climber

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #16 on: March 15, 2013, 06:53:21 AM »

I only buy 60m ropes now. No sense is having a 50m rope when the 'standard' has not become 60's and 70's even. All my buds have 60's so if we want to do full length raps we are all on the same page having the same rope lengths as each other.
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Michael Urban, RN

strandman

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #17 on: March 15, 2013, 10:13:03 AM »

NO , learning how to rap with a 150' is plain stupid..

Learning to rap 60 meters from bolt anchor and you will always need bolt, learning to rap with a 50 meter and you will always in better situation. In a rap, my rope was stuck in a flake above us. we had to cut it.

For a beginer, it is an exercises. In yosemtie, last september, I toped out royal arches and didn't find the trail. We rap with a 50 meters in the dark. Thirsty, but safe. we arrived at two or three o'clock at camp four.

EXCEPT if the boltsare 60m apart !!! Then your fucked

How did you rap to the RA trail ??
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kenreville

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #18 on: March 15, 2013, 10:27:17 AM »

NO , learning how to rap with a 150' is plain stupid..

Learning to rap 60 meters from bolt anchor and you will always need bolt, learning to rap with a 50 meter and you will always in better situation. In a rap, my rope was stuck in a flake above us. we had to cut it.

For a beginer, it is an exercises. In yosemtie, last september, I toped out royal arches and didn't find the trail. We rap with a 50 meters in the dark. Thirsty, but safe. we arrived at two or three o'clock at camp four.

No matter Luke. Fact is, there are many different scenarios in climbing. Having too short a rope, can hurt/hinder you. Having too long a rope cannot. And why couldn't you find the trail? Did you miss that chapter in Freedom of the Hills?
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strandman

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #19 on: March 15, 2013, 10:35:27 AM »

FoTH ist edition may  have come out around the f/a of Royal Arches... 1937 ? 
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lucky luke

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #20 on: March 15, 2013, 10:46:01 AM »

NO , learning how to rap with a 150' is plain stupid..

Learning to rap 60 meters from bolt anchor and you will always need bolt, learning to rap with a 50 meter and you will always in better situation. In a rap, my rope was stuck in a flake above us. we had to cut it.

Of course, it is a 60 meter rope, or a rap of 30 meter at a time.

We mist the trail in RA because we where late and we didn't bring two sixty with us. I climbed the day after I drive 72 hours in a row, with little sleep and a new partner. 
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DGoguen

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #21 on: March 15, 2013, 11:40:47 AM »

Of course, it is a 60 meter rope, or a rap of 30 meter at a time.

On Royal Arches, off the anchors at pitch 15, it's 11 raps to the ground with two ropes. With one, it can be done in 22 shorter raps.
Excellent training opportunity. I'll be at Degnans having a beer.
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Don't Climb

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #22 on: March 16, 2013, 08:16:50 AM »

For many years I used a 6 mm static tag line. It worked great and was really light. Then a couple of partners got all nervous about how skinny it was. Go figure... So I started using double 8.8 and that's what I use for all multi-pitch routes these days. When I go out soloing ice, like Thursday on Willard, I just carry one of those to rap off on. Painless...
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strandman

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2013, 09:37:23 AM »

i had a 6mm bitd and it was a bit dicey.. always looked like the knot would get sucked through.. esp with and 11mm. a 10mm/7mm looks a bit more even
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DLottmann

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2013, 07:59:14 PM »

UIAA recommends keeping tags lines within 3mm of your lead line... so you can join a 9.4mm with a 7mm tag, but joining a 10mm with a 6mm gets iffy... not sure the reasoning behind it but maybe higher chance of it rolling? EDK FTW!
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John Ski

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Re: What choice for a 2nd rope for full length raps????
« Reply #25 on: March 28, 2013, 10:16:21 PM »

Decades ago, trying to save weight in the Tetons, I used a 10mm and a 7mm. Doing free-hanging raps over knife-edge lips had me reconsider this combo. The 7mm was just too thin and scary. I now prefer a pair of 8.5s when trying to minimize weight and still have the ability for full length raps.
Reasons to keep the two ropes within 3mm of each other are it lessens the chances of the thinner rope pulling through the knot joining them (if Overhand Bend aka 'Euro-death' knot is used and thicker rope is on the stiff side) , easier to help them run through rap device more evenly, and distributes weight more evenly between the two ropes.
« Last Edit: April 03, 2013, 08:47:23 PM by John Ski »
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