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Author Topic: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..  (Read 804 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« on: March 15, 2013, 06:34:53 PM »

What are your dream climbs? which climbs were the most influentual for you? Your landmark achievements?

It seems that winter climbs do not give up their pleasures and secrets quite as easily as summer climbs.  That rock climb will be there next week but Called On Account Of Rains may never form on a given year.  The forces nessicary for some of these prize climbs to yeild to my seductions seem quite daunting at times.
 First you need to be in good enough shape.  Strong enough physically and mentally to climb that big route.
 
Second, the climb needs to be in proper nick for your mental and physical abilitys.

Third, you need to have the time off from work, the right partner available, the ability to travel to the climb on a day that the  weather is within the safe parameters for that climb on a day when the climb is IN..

Fourth, You need to be at the base of your dream climb, with the right partner,the right weather, when your climb is in  shape  WITHOUT a party smack dab in front of you and still have the right head to follow through with the dream.

 It seems that with two jobs and a worn out body meeting all these requirements is a daunting task..

I have looked at Ragnarock Countless times and it usually looked downright menacing from the road or accross the Notch up on Blind Fate. I had gone to Smuggs a few times with the thought of haveing a look at Ragnarock yet had never even hiked over to the base of the climb.  To lead the entire climb a few weeks ago in lean conditions  with my #1 most special partner ever was an incredible experience.  http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Ogres-in-the-Notch-Ragnarock-Smugglers-Notch-VT/t11858n.html

I am totally satisfied with the season simply getting one of my dream climbs. All the other great climbs we did this winter are simply gravy :)

Next year I hope to get at least one of these dreams that are still on my list.. A few have shunned my advances in the past. None of these are likly to be fat and easy or even remotely safe in what is left of this season. Some I have yet to get brave enough to even walk to the base and have a look.......

Positive Thinking.
Fafnier
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« Last Edit: March 15, 2013, 06:38:38 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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JBrochu

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2013, 08:22:29 PM »

Cool report. Can't do much better than having someone like Donini comment on the writing and pics and then say the route, "looks righteous."

You should post some of the pics in this thread. The "out in space" and the one of you just starting the 2nd pitch are really high quality.

 
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slink

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2013, 09:07:08 PM »

I was just talking about positive thinking for being on next years list.Also some stuff at the lake and Ragnarock.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2013, 10:15:08 PM »

Lets hear some of your dream climbs and the climbs that meant the most to you..  As far as winter climbing goes by far the most influentual experience for me was getting a free ride up Le Promenade from a hitch hiker..  Alden hitched a belay from us and ran the rope up one of the biggest baddest ice climbs in the NE for us. That climb showed me what was possible and opened my mind to the idea that leading stuff like The  Gent, Power Play, Glass M. Ragnarock etc. was possible.
 All it takes is proper mental and physical fitness and a good partner and you both have the the day off from work with good weather (cold enough but not too cold) when the climb is in good enough condition for your ability and getting on the climb without getting skunked due to a conga line..  peice of cake... really  ;)

leading the Last Gentleman the first time felt like a lifetime achievement to me as did Ragnarock and a few other climbs over the years..

 
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2013, 10:37:58 PM »

Slink. PT is a perfect example. When she is lean and mean she can strike terror in your heart. When she is fat, loose and easy the weekend conga line may well thwart your best intentions yet she is always  one or two sunny warm days away from falling down and being done for the season. :P
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Admin Al

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2013, 07:39:24 AM »

For me, having the right partner makes all the difference in the world. Not someone who just eggs yo on with a "Come on, you can do it...looking good baby." The right partner doesn't have to say anything. You can tell their focus from their belay. Every time yo pull the rope to clip, there is just the right amount of slack. Or they point out that I might be better to clip the red rope, rather than the green... Whatever it is, I just feel more confident knowing that if anything happens I am in the best hands. I climbs lot with George and Brad and have done some of my best ice climbing with them; Dropline, Machine, Last Exit, Hobbit... I can feel the positive energy coming up that rope!
« Last Edit: March 16, 2013, 07:41:11 AM by Admin Al »
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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2013, 08:44:32 AM »

For me, having the right partner makes all the difference in the world. Not someone who just eggs yo on with a "Come on, you can do it...looking good baby." The right partner doesn't have to say anything. You can tell their focus from their belay. Every time yo pull the rope to clip, there is just the right amount of slack. Or they point out that I might be better to clip the red rope, rather than the green... Whatever it is, I just feel more confident knowing that if anything happens I am in the best hands. I climbs lot with George and Brad and have done some of my best ice climbing with them; Dropline, Machine, Last Exit, Hobbit... I can feel the positive energy coming up that rope!

+1 Al.  My best moments have been with the partners I completely trust.  Cheers to those guys!
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kenreville

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2013, 09:28:53 AM »

After Repentence, I mustered up the courage to lead Promenade. Both milestones.
The "last" dream climb for me was Mindbender. That thing is intense.
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pappy

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2013, 03:44:53 PM »

Trad, thanks for putting things into perspective, I needed that. I've had my lip stuck out for the last few weeks because the only climb on my tick list that I got this winter was Ragnarock. Instead of reveling in that I beat myself up for walking away from Omega in Feb.

I've actually had a good few years since moving back here in '07, even after losing a season and a half to the stupid leg. I've done pretty much all the 'pure' ice climbs at the Lake except for promenade, (The first pitch of Who's Who is killer, in every sense) and most of the 5s in NH/VT/Daks on my radar. Still focused like a laser on

Omega
Promenade
Fafnir
Dream Within A Dream
Dark Lord, I suppose, just because Joe was always on my (everyone's) case to go do it.
Way in the Wilderness

I suppose I should put Remission on the list, but for some reason it just doesn't call me. Maybe if it actually froze to the ground...

Rags is a killer climb. 4+ my ass. Before this year it was the only climb up here that I walked away from. (Discord doesn't count, I didn't walk away, I got slid out in a dog crate.)
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pappy

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2013, 03:57:19 PM »

Oh yeah, and Valhalla, actually everything on that wall. The only other productive thing I did this winter was spend a Sat. during that crummy Dec. scoping it out.
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strandman

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #10 on: March 16, 2013, 05:55:29 PM »

You get a pass - pappy,,, since you talk funny
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kenreville

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #11 on: March 16, 2013, 09:47:42 PM »

The route I never did and never will is Bullwinkle. Sad but true.  :(
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darwined

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2013, 11:23:05 PM »

Dreams in NH

The Black Dike
Dropline

Dreams

Alaska and Cody, Wyoming

Landmark climbs

Dracula Right with Icejock, "If you don't get outside your comfort zone you'll never improve".  I think about that moment almost every time I'm scared.


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lucky luke

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2013, 11:46:30 PM »

What are your dream climbs?
[...]
First you need to be in good enough shape.  Strong enough physically and mentally to climb that big route.
 
Second, the climb needs to be in proper nick for your mental and physical abilitys.

Third, you need to have the time off from work, the right partner available, the ability to travel to the climb on a day that the  weather is within the safe parameters for that climb on a day when the climb is IN..

Fourth, You need to be at the base of your dream climb, with the right partner,the right weather, when your climb is in  shape  WITHOUT a party smack dab in front of you and still have the right head to follow through with the dream.

A+
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markvnh

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Re: Winter goals, dreams and landmark climbs for you..
« Reply #14 on: March 17, 2013, 09:03:13 PM »

Landmark climbs:

Big Science - 3AM wake up, drive three hours to meet partner, snow shoe and break trail for what seemed like hours, got to base and looked at it and said to myself "damn, it ain't in." My partner said "it's a bit thin but I think it will go." That was the first real mixed climb I ever did. Those black prophets were awesome! Went back a couple years later with it all ice and it was just as memorable.

Polar Circus - enough said.

Quartet Ice Hose - first pitch or so. A real scratch fest. If I thought Big Science was mixed, yikes! It opened my eyes to what was possible.

Fafnir - on my 40th birthday!

To do's:

Any climb with a great partner on any given day.

Mainline

Any of the newer hard climbs at the lake with a young rope gun!


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