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Author Topic: Your Finest Solo  (Read 2520 times)

kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #75 on: April 26, 2013, 09:36:17 PM »

Recombeast. very quiet head at the ledge below the tourist fence. No noise, empty mind.
Nice. The finish corner of Recompense is so sweet.
I looked at it many times.....
But hey, I'm still here today.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #76 on: April 26, 2013, 09:40:57 PM »

Pussy up ken-

first 3 pitches of Children's  .. solo off right and down climb Dike route

my best solo, I will not claim,'cause it's bad
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kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #77 on: April 26, 2013, 09:53:06 PM »

First pitch of Children's was beyond my zone. The rock has that hard polish on many of the holds. High grease factor.
My nuts would be the size of raisins.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #78 on: April 26, 2013, 10:08:15 PM »

I learned in the Quincey Quarries,, the holds were

 like rough timbers

You wanna learn slicky, slab,,,, go to Quincey.. no slicker, any where... rubidoux, stoney, BS
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kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #79 on: April 26, 2013, 10:18:20 PM »

You're right. I've been to Quincy maybe a 1/2 dozen times. I remember it being that same slopey greasy type hold.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #80 on: April 26, 2013, 10:26:36 PM »

Western lady--- Q5.10-..... Camber,, maybe Q 10,,,, Aiwass  Q 5.11-...
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pappy

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #81 on: April 26, 2013, 10:50:30 PM »

I spent the autumn of '93 in Boston, went out to the Quarries several times. Didn't know what anything was, didn't know anybody, just pick a reasonable looking line and try to climb it. A theme emerged: Climb up a bit, say, 'god damn, this is scary', climb down. Move to the next line, repeat.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #82 on: April 27, 2013, 07:33:24 PM »

i solo'd maybe 75% of the routes at the Quarries.. I lived across the street. My man karl mallmen and i got way into it one winter, doing 200-300' of REAL 5.12 a day 4x a week.. Ripped at Suicide that year..

I wonder why my fingers hurt ?

We hit conway pretty good too.. "well, just fucking do it ?.. it's easy, 5.11 Quarries". Autoclave, first lead(maybe only" 12C x-ish
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JJ Jameson

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #83 on: April 29, 2013, 07:59:23 PM »

Quarries taught me SOO much about staying locked onto holds, did a ton of stuff there unroped, John you prolly recall. Karl knew about some, Paul Duval as well,  I miss them both. Ladder Line probably the one with biggest "poor outcome potential" I did, but with poor style. I talked to Karl about it. I had been running laps on it with jumars, then thought WTF I haven't fallen off this the last 50 times I've climbed it. So rapped down, and started up, with my fixed line to the side. Direct start, all good, then at the layback move midway, my left foot greased. just as I was about to accelerate downwards, I snatched my line with my right hand. Stopped right there.

Went back about a month later, and went up. Had to. It was haunting me.
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terminusnout

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #84 on: April 29, 2013, 09:10:27 PM »

jj- brought a tear to my eye thinking about paul, though he was 30 years my senior he was an amazing mentor and made me feel welcome and brought an eastern flavor to the black hills. When on the barber route on superpin he told me to "shut my head off" it worked. fuck  man, i really miss him. A route will go up in his honor this week. Anyone know where Karin is these days?
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JJ Jameson

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #85 on: April 29, 2013, 09:30:01 PM »

Had a funny moment with him on the "C" wall at the quarries once. We were the only ones there, I was running up and down, mixing lines together, and got myself stumped at one point, pretty high up. He was sitting, putting on his shoes, clearly saw that I had dead-ended myself, but very casually said, "OK, I'm good to go, anytime you want to get started" not looking directly at me, I reversed the moves, came back down and was very happy to rope up with him for the rest of the afternoon.
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Jeff

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #86 on: April 30, 2013, 08:40:42 AM »

Memories of Paul--so many, so good; post climb beers at base of Cannon, and after his ascent of the Gervasutti Couloir in Cham, camping at Seneca with him, Boston group outings at the Gunks, Cathedral, Acadia and elsewhere---RIP Paul!
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steve weitzler

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #87 on: April 30, 2013, 01:18:10 PM »

Spent the whole summer of '83 with him in Britain, France, and Italy. Did many routes, saw many things, met many people, had many laughs (drank a lot too).  He always had a way of putting things into perspective and keeping things simple. Every day after climbing he would declare "we live to climb again." Late in the summer he got trashed on the Grandes Jorasses and after a somewhat epic decent and helicopter rescue (he was never proud of that) and much valium and Chardonnet he proudly declared, "we almost didn't live that time."  Great guy. Miss him too.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #88 on: April 30, 2013, 07:20:13 PM »

Of course my freind , the late Karl Mallmen who lived with Paul for atime is gone seven years now
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steve weitzler

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #89 on: April 30, 2013, 09:39:18 PM »

Another great guy.
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