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Author Topic: Your Finest Solo  (Read 2552 times)

kenreville

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Your Finest Solo
« on: March 23, 2013, 03:23:24 PM »

All this talk in the accident thread @ Frankenstein has me wondering. To those that have soloed either rock and/or ice, what route stands out the most as your finest? IMO, there's a distinct none-other rush that comes when completing a solo climb. One that simply cannot be achieved with a rope.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2013, 04:51:45 PM »

For NE.. Crack in the Woods for sure, I had done it before and trailed a 7mm to get done so it wasn't pure.
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kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2013, 05:21:24 PM »

Having on-sited that little bugger John, my hat's off to you. My solo envelope ended at 5.9. And only on those I knew really well. Bird's Nest, They Died. Stuff like that. Good solid jams with sharp holds.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2013, 05:27:19 PM »

No- i had done it before, maybe 3x  SO solid those jams. Esp after 2 months in the Valley.
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kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2013, 06:16:37 PM »

Agreed. Regardless, a stout solo.
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DMan

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2013, 07:55:58 PM »

Rock, West Face of Square Ledge, then a lap on the Chimney (5.6)... yup... 200ft of the finest secure 5.5 rock climbing... done it dozens of times with a rope first... I really donít like to solo rock, scares me... so I keep it way below lead level...

Ice, Standard Route @ Franks, Shoestring, Cinema Gully... a fun run up Streamline (donít drown ;) The Cleft... all fun seasonal solos...

You really canít compare soloing rock vrs. ice...
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sneoh

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2013, 08:05:01 PM »

I really donít like to solo rock, scares me... so I keep it way below lead level...
You really canít compare soloing rock vrs. ice...
I was beginning to wonder if this was the case since I do not ice climb at all.
If I were to solo rock onsight, I would probably have it at 4 or 5 number grade below what I can onsight with a rope. 
Just a mental academic exercise for me in any case. :)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2013, 08:27:13 PM »

Hardest rock solo Junior 5.9 gunks. & Wish You were here 9+ Deer Leap. The coolest was the upper 300ft of Cleopatras Chair in caynonlands. You stash the ropes after the chimny and the scary mantle/shoulder stand pitch. the upper 300ft are 5 easy slab so it is a scramble to one of the more remote summits in the park. Pretty darn cool.  Most funny would be naked solo of center crack @ Deer Leap on a dare..
 Winter time is all about long easy miles. All the gullys in the ravine except north. I only got around to that one once and that was with a rope. The top of Chiounards right is pretty in your face and pretty high up. RBF is just gobbs of fun. Multiplication, etc. Bristol VT is a good solo with some exciteing moves up high....

These days I only solo stuff I am 400% solid on but it is a very relaxing fun way to climb. I can slip out after work and do 10 laps on center crack in an hour. 750ft of perfect steep clean exposed 5.7 crack. it feels just like doing Tai Chi. that is how I rehabed my shoulder back from the brink.....
« Last Edit: March 23, 2013, 09:49:03 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #8 on: March 23, 2013, 08:43:13 PM »

For ice =Shoestring and Cleft both onsight. For rock Flake at Pawtuckaway. Love the feeling you get from soloing. I always keep the grades low and casual and keep it fun
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punxnotdead

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2013, 08:44:56 PM »

Beginners route Whitehorse
Cinema gully and elephants head gully
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kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2013, 09:11:09 PM »

How about Multiplication Gully in the ADK? A classic solo.
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slink

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2013, 09:24:57 PM »

 I will not say finest as those are personal but I will say the most memorable.Early 90s out in JTree a bunch of us soloed the Bong under a full moon what a beautiful place and the bong was fitting for the occasion.
 Ice I woke up one morning and it was going to be a great day so I called in sick and soloed Pinnacle gully under beautiful skies and I did not see another person until I down soloed the head wall in Tucks and got to the shelter.It was the best day I ever had on the summit of Mt Washington.
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kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2013, 09:31:07 PM »

I will not say finest as those are personal but I will say the most memorable.Early 90s out in JTree a bunch of us soloed the Bong under a full moon what a beautiful place and the bong was fitting for the occasion.
 Ice I woke up one morning and it was going to be a great day so I called in sick and soloed Pinnacle gully under beautiful skies and I did not see another person until I down soloed the head wall in Tucks and got to the shelter.It was the best day I ever had on the summit of Mt Washington.

Sounds like a similar day I had. Skinned up into Huntington's, soloed Pinnacle, traversed around the Headwall and skied down Duchess, back down the Sherburne. Didn't see a soul. I remember it was cold, not too windy, and a cloudless day. 
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pappy

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #13 on: March 24, 2013, 03:18:02 PM »

Most memorable was a 30' 5.7 handcrack at Rattlesnake Gutter called 'Ground Out'. I had actually soloed it a couple of times before, but this time was very late in the day, almost dark, Steve and I were supposed to take our fiancees out for dinner, and we were already several hours late.  :-\ Our gear was on the tree ledge above the crack, and I could have walked around to retrieve it, but obviously the crack was faster. I'm whipped, so I'm climbing ultra cautiously, but five feet from the top this gigantic hairy spider popped out of the crack, and I instinctively try to brush it away. With both hands. I had enough time on the way to the ground to think, 'that was really fucking stupid.' Then I noted the big block at the base rapidly approaching my face and reached out to push it away. But it all worked out. With an unimpeachable excuse we escaped homicide, and I had just enough time to get the cast cut off my arm a couple of days before my wedding. They did cut it off a week or so before they wanted, but women are weird that away about weddings. However, spiders and I have not gotten along so well since then.
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kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2013, 05:41:29 PM »

Spiders and bats pappy. There aren't many people that don't jump when one of them comes straight towards them. Nice story. Ya still married to the same woman?

 
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