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Author Topic: Your Finest Solo  (Read 5888 times)

Offline sneoh

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #15 on: March 24, 2013, 06:54:34 PM »
Quote from: kenreville on March 24, 2013, 05:41:29 PM
Spiders and bats pappy. There aren't many people that don't jump when one of them comes straight towards them. 
Add to those mice and snakes.  I had a couple of close calls with these down at The Gunks.
« Last Edit: March 24, 2013, 07:19:20 PM by sneoh »
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Offline pappy

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #16 on: March 24, 2013, 07:05:15 PM »
I learned from that one. About ten years later I was climbing this 10+ crack corner in AL. I get to a stance before the crux and get a last good piece in where the crack snaps shut. About 12' up, the crack opens up again and there is a stonker bucket hold. It's just not far enough to warrant the added stress of tweaking in some brass POS, so oh shit, I'm going for the bucket. 12' of highly stressful continuous techy tweaking stemming and I grab that sucker, pull up to chin level to start thinking about getting some gear, and this fucking flying squirrel pops out of the crack, runs down my arm, and launches into space. It happened so fast that I can't really say that I 'thought' anything, but I had the sudden sensation of that spider and was not letting go.

And it's a good thing, too. 'Cause after I got my shit together--and it took a while to get my shit together, I do not suffer these kinds of things stoically--I look down and my belayer and a buddy are just rolling on the ground laughing their asses off. They couldn't have caught shit. I'd like to think they at least waited until I got my shit together.

No, she and I had a long run, but we've moved on to better things.
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #17 on: March 24, 2013, 08:20:52 PM »
Put my fingers in a bees nest in a  thin crack on the lower beer walls. pretty run out looking  at 40+ footer and suddenly I am swarmed in bees. stayed ultra calm, plugged in a blue alien while I was blowing on the bees that landed on me. as soon as i had the gear in I boogied 10-15 ft pluged something decent in and brushed off the rest of them. Only stung 4 or 5 times... Intense.
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Offline smartpig

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #18 on: March 24, 2013, 08:24:26 PM »
Ken, I always thought impressive is your solo of the West Rib of Denali and Mt. Assiniboine.

My finest solo, Ken, on ice/snow was the Italian Climb (Scottish grade 4) (links to Tower Ridge-before the gap) on Ben Nevis, Scotland.  I spent a winter climbing in Glen Coe and on the Ben.  Soloed many 3's and 4's. Rented Allan Wedgewood's (on FA of Sam's Swan Song, Reppy's, and other Cannon climbs) Cottage along Loche Levin outside Glen Coe for 5 quid a week ....many an evening knocking down Ales with local luminaries-most memorable night with Joe Brown holding court!

 Also, quite a few ice climbs in the Adirindacks up to grade 4.

Rock: Solo cruising both up and down, bare foot, all the facets of Chapel Pond Slabs. Quadraphenia, Hurricane Crag, ADKs.
         Lakeview, Con Prize, wiesners, funhouse to upper refuse.
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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #19 on: March 24, 2013, 08:31:56 PM »
Quote from: slink on March 23, 2013, 09:24:57 PM
...Early 90s out in JTree a bunch of us soloed the Bong under a full moon what a beautiful place and the bong was fitting for the occasion...

Only been to JTree twice but always run up an easy route on the Blob for beers at Sunset before rapping to camp... If I lived near Red Rocks/JTree I would solo a lot more I think...

I would love to run up Solar Slab in fair weather sans rope... 2000 feet of pretty damn solid 5.5.... guess you need a rope for the decent though...
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Offline strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #20 on: March 24, 2013, 09:07:25 PM »
Yot could do the Girdle of Whitehorse,, rope only for the rappel halfway .. bring a string... fine climb
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Offline kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #21 on: March 24, 2013, 09:07:37 PM »
Quote from: smartpig on March 24, 2013, 08:24:26 PM
Ken, I always thought impressive is your solo of the West Rib of Denali and Mt. Assiniboine.

My finest solo, Ken, on ice/snow was the Italian Climb (Scottish grade 4) (links to Tower Ridge-before the gap) on Ben Nevis, Scotland.  I spent a winter climbing in Glen Coe and on the Ben.  Soloed many 3's and 4's. Rented Allan Wedgewood's (on FA of Sam's Swan Song, Reppy's, and other Cannon climbs) Cottage along Loche Levin outside Glen Coe for 5 quid a week ....many an evening knocking down Ales with local luminaries-most memorable night with Joe Brown holding court!

 Also, quite a few ice climbs in the Adirindacks up to grade 4.

Rock: Solo cruising both up and down, bare foot, all the facets of Chapel Pond Slabs. Quadraphenia, Hurricane Crag, ADKs.
         Lakeview, Con Prize, wiesners, funhouse to upper refuse.

How about headlamp solos up Chapel Pond? Those were the days huh James?
My best rock solos were all pretty much on Cathedral. There's too many good pitches I can think of... Thinner, Turner's Flake, Pine Tree, Bombardment, Three Birches, Black Lung. I guess you could say 5.8 was my comfort level.
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #22 on: March 24, 2013, 11:44:21 PM »
I've soloed most things at Frankenstein, Willard (not Madness tho) and the Tablets at Willoughby (mopowers will remember one day). I don't solo rock any more. for some reason I got really spooked one day on Fun House. that pinch move just above the finger crack on P1. I feel so much more comfortable on ice...
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Offline mopowers

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #23 on: March 25, 2013, 07:55:58 AM »
I do remember that day Al. That is the only time i have soloed ice. Although, i have done a few ice leads that sure felt like a solo.

My hardest rock solo was Steel Monkey, 5.9, at Wheeler. It has a slippery slab crux that i had fallen on before. Not sure why, one day i got it in my mind that it was something i had to do. It was enjoyable and a good learning experience. I came away from it knowing that i am no soloist. I even wore my helmet and kept looking around to make sure no one was watching. I felt a bit silly. I enjoy pushing myself in the company of friends much more.

The most enjoyable climb i have done without a rope is a route J-Tree. I believe it is called The Eye. Its a long pitch, dead vertical and rated something like 5.2. I found it extremely fun and much like climbing a stone ladder. 
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Offline sneoh

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #24 on: March 25, 2013, 09:00:33 AM »
Has anyone solo'ed the Southwest Buttress (or Eichorn Pinnacle) of Cathedral Peak over at T. Meadows, CA?  Or roped-climbed it or both?  Looks great and pretty exposed(?).
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Offline strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #25 on: March 25, 2013, 09:20:11 AM »
Mo- the Eye is great at night as well, it would be right at home in the Gunks.

Eichorn is a fine climb,  I brought a rope, I think there is a short rap ? Snake Dike in the Valley is fun. it's really easy, WAY easierthan Sliding board with the same grade. it's like x-country running on perfect granite. Do WH Standard  twice  and add 14 miles of  hiking
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Offline old_school

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #26 on: March 25, 2013, 10:19:15 AM »
For ice it would have to be the Penguin, and rock Funhouse to Upper Refuse. I don't solo much rock anymore these days...not sure why, but I do solo a ton of ice now. Very different feel but a similar mind set.
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Offline kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #27 on: March 25, 2013, 10:27:19 AM »
Years ago I soloed the Whitney Gillman. That was pretty cool.
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Offline strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #28 on: March 25, 2013, 10:37:20 AM »
Grammy- soloing ice = drinking alone ??  ;)

Ken- the WG is a really fine solo, it takes like 30 minutes.

I used to do the LH start to funhouse then finish up P2 of 3 Birches , Lookout Crack to finish... scares the shit out of the tourists.
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Offline old_school

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #29 on: March 25, 2013, 10:45:22 AM »
Quote from: strandman on March 25, 2013, 10:37:20 AM
Grammy- soloing ice = drinking alone ??  ;)

Ken- the WG is a really fine solo, it takes like 30 minutes.

I used to do the LH start to funhouse then finish up P2 of 3 Birches , Lookout Crack to finish... scares the shit out of the tourists.

WG is insane Ken!! nice work. I have been doing a lot of drinking alone Strandman as I am in the throws of a divorce (12 years) unreal
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