NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 10   Go Down

Author Topic: Your Finest Solo  (Read 4800 times)

SA

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 338
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #60 on: March 29, 2013, 07:06:59 PM »

Hey John,

It helps when you have it wired. I once did Cro-M.( after I was 50), on a top rope in under 60 seconds. Yes, I'm bragging again!
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4623
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #61 on: March 29, 2013, 07:10:42 PM »

You were over 50 a long time ago   :'(  Shit. I used to do the same at the Quarries. 

"how can you climb that without a rope ?"

I use my hands and feet
Logged

sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1961
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #62 on: March 29, 2013, 07:11:45 PM »

I once did Cro-M.( after I was 50), on a top rope in under 60 seconds. Yes, I'm bragging again!
Holy cow.  60 seconds?  I can't imagine that.  Well worthy of a brag. 
Logged

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4623
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #63 on: March 29, 2013, 07:14:59 PM »

when you get older, you have to go faster...you'll learn
Logged

radair

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 106
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #64 on: April 02, 2013, 10:00:55 AM »

Ken, your solo exploits have always impressed me. I only soloed Turner's Flake after I saw you do it. That is a good one.

My best solo was a winter ascent of Wonder Wall on Whitehorse, but it doesn't meet Ken's intent of a ropeless endeavor. Regardless, it was the better part of 3 days of quality climbing & problem solving and at the time was relatively remote (the hotel was under construction). I used the Ladyslipper variation on the upper wall which provided better free climbing.

SA, I think you are a humble man but it's nice of you to share some tales of your impressive career. Please don't stop!

Strand - Crack in the Woods is a very stout solo, especially for a slab specialist! :)
Logged

kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 453
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #65 on: April 02, 2013, 06:05:10 PM »

Thanks Rob.

You always impressed me as one of the most "off the couch" hardmen I've ever met.

You haven't touched rock for years, yet can easily rope up and lead 5.11 no problemo. That's damn impressive.
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4623
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #66 on: April 02, 2013, 06:46:23 PM »

Thanks- crack in the woods is so good,, many people soloed it ? well at least hudon and TC that i know of ,, I bet JB aswell. i was gonna do Western lady but JB beat me to it,, it's no good to do a second solo.
The starting 3 pitchs to Children's are also  very cool.. w/o a rope, you can traverse all the way back to Dike Route and downclimb easy

maybe last Unicorn would be the best though... Diedre currently tops the list.. solid,clean and not very hard
Logged

kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 453
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #67 on: April 02, 2013, 07:03:56 PM »

I agree with Diedre. All but that stepover move on the 2nd pitch. That always had me groping.

Groping while solo is NFG.
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4623
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #68 on: April 02, 2013, 07:15:10 PM »

Just ignore it-- the worst would be a fall to the deck and then a fucking dog shit's on you. i don't think a fall from the crux would result in death ?

Ltiile Stalking atop refuse is a good one.. there is ONE rp for gear..a fall would send you down Refuse ramp... what a way to go

I would have soloed Crest jewel (yosemite) in my prime for sure.. casual  10a (5,9)  1,200 of perfect slab
Logged

SA

  • NEClimbs Senior Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 338
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #69 on: April 03, 2013, 08:28:21 AM »

I remember John Bouchard calling me up on the phone just after he soloed Intimidation.
He was really excited.

Brian Delaney told me a few years ago, that he had soloed, many routes including Lichen Delight, Intimidation and other hard routes in that grade--impressive or crazy???
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4623
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #70 on: April 03, 2013, 09:36:39 AM »

Lichen id Brian's route so it's not to crazy

jimmy S did Airation and many others
Logged

kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 453
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #71 on: April 04, 2013, 10:58:35 PM »

Jimbo says that he thinks my finest solo was either Denali or Assiniboine. When I walked in to climb Assiniboine (20 miles), I got to view the "Matterhorn of the Rockies" and had a serious lump in my throat- it looked really big and really scary. The mountain itself (after climbing it) is at the angle of repose. Meaning, if it was any steeper it would simply fall down. Loose choss is a weak description.
My partner (the Iceman) and I made our way up through the piles of scree to the tin can hut that put us about 2500ft from the summit.
We got ready that night- I woke him up at 4:00am. He immediately bolted outside the hut. Thinking he was full of spunk, I hurried to get my chit and get outside. I went out of the hut to a full moon and my partner with his head in his hands says "I don't wanna go". I told him that I was glad he told me that BEFORE we started out. My mind was made up- I'm climbing this monster. So I started out.

With the moon to guide me (along with the sunrise), I climbed a lot of really loose rock, with two vertical "bands" to overcome and at 8:30am I was on the summit. Looking back, my only regret is that I hadn't carried my paraglider with me.

When I was at the summit, I realized that I had carried a small rack (with the intent of climbing with the Iceman) - he had the rope in his pack (at the bottom). So rapping off was nada. Downclimbing was the rule that day.

My father had died a month before the climb- it was the most personal and intense solo I have ever done. Burned into my memory.
I sure do miss you dad.

That was the summer of '86.
Logged

kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 453
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #72 on: April 24, 2013, 10:09:14 PM »

Bump.
C'mon peeps- I know there's more good stories out there......
Logged

terminusnout

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 170
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #73 on: April 24, 2013, 10:39:08 PM »

Recombeast. very quiet head at the ledge below the tourist fence. No noise, empty mind.
Logged

SidleK

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 39
Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #74 on: April 24, 2013, 11:02:54 PM »

Onsight solo of the Black Ice Couloir (AI 3/4, 5.7, IV) on the Grand Teton and the Northwest Ice Couloir (AI 3, 5.6, III) on the Middle Teton in 11.5 hours car to car
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 10   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.197 seconds with 23 queries.