Author Topic: Your Finest Solo  (Read 5474 times)

Offline strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #90 on: May 01, 2013, 07:45:52 PM »
JJ- i never did ladder Line.. a fucking great solo... Pins and that stuff was better with water.  I still am amazed by Barry doin East of Eden  I could barely do that route, sometimes , on TR

Remember slabbin' on C wall / crazy, hard shit

Offline JJ Jameson

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #91 on: May 01, 2013, 08:59:30 PM »
C-wall taught me a lot. like when NOT to climb hard routes. Unreal how greasy that place could get.
I had Ladder Line SO dialed, it made sense for me.
East of Eden? That was a death struggle every time for me. Barry doing that w/o a rope? Makes me nauseous.

Offline kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #92 on: May 01, 2013, 09:06:10 PM »
"Unreal how greasy that place could get."

Good climbing overall, but that pretty much sums it up.

Offline DaveR

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #93 on: May 02, 2013, 07:33:49 AM »
John, Ken, jj, pappy, and others. Keep the stories coming. As someone who has taken a huge interest in the climbing history of the NE over the last 25 years I find alot of them pretty interesting. Especially since many of the stories are being told about some of my early mentors such as TC and I have climbed most of the things you are talking about. Another one who has alot of stories but rarely posts here is John "Whitey" McLean. Just two of the many great climbers the NE has produced and they sure taught me a hell of alot in my early years.

My gf loves the quaries and I have LL dialed but I sure would not want to solo it! John, when was it first climbed and when was it bolted? The bolts are no longer there.

Offline DaveR

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #94 on: May 02, 2013, 07:35:52 AM »
"Unreal how greasy that place could get."

Good climbing overall, but that pretty much sums it up.

Greasy gets redefined at the quaries on a hot day! ;D

Offline strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #95 on: May 02, 2013, 09:47:08 AM »
Remember ladder Line was originally bolted, like 12 bolts. I don't know if it was chopped after being freed or not ('68) I beleive.

I bolted it around ' 86 or so and caught a lot of shit but so what ? Brilliant climb.

I met Whitey in '79.. never saw anyone else at the Woods for year and years...

Offline terminusnout

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #96 on: May 02, 2013, 04:55:40 PM »
Strando,

You got any stories of the ethereal area (bits and pieces, swinging hips, aiwass, unwanted)? did revolt and ethereal today and peeked at those from the top of buttress. Also.....you know what the next line left of Unwanted is? I dont know if someone did a more direct version of Aiwass or what it is but looks like a very cool way to get into the splitter aiwass corner without dealing with the V4 boulder problem. The bolts looked pretty new so I think that someone has resurrected something oldish?

Offline strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #97 on: May 02, 2013, 05:56:33 PM »
Maybe Answered Prayers  a tough 12B, maybe C

2 starts to Aiwass, the original one which we did, two bolts then right to the flake, pretty hard for '83. The Dunn start down and right  a single bolt in dark rock and an RP to the flake, nice WAY easier , 11C

I tried a direct start to Bit's one time.. really hard  13 prolly

Offline terminusnout

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #98 on: May 02, 2013, 06:48:24 PM »
Answered Prayers, that would make sense.....is that a Lowther route? I worked out Antichrist last season...Holy shit what a hidden hard and free classic. Speaking of people who left a whole slew of radical routes in their wake.....Lost Souls, Jacob's Ladder, Star of David, Fiddler on the Roof.

Offline strandman

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #99 on: May 02, 2013, 10:06:16 PM »
bill was a hard climbing MFO... try Pig Belly out at bartlett Haystack,, we did it like 20 years ago.. as good as Lichen It A Lot on Cathedral

Offline JoeC

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #100 on: April 27, 2014, 08:36:53 PM »
My finest solo I would have to say was also the first one I did.  Elephant Head rock climb.  I hadnt climbed that route in 5 yrs or so.  One of the best feelings ive ever had.  I still solo things.  I love the mental clarity it affords and the connected to rock feeling you just cant get with a rope.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #101 on: April 27, 2014, 08:54:58 PM »
I did the direct finish to Shoestring the first freeze day after the jan thaw this year. OMG that was intense! From the gully proper it looked fat. I climbed a very thin narrow runnel for about 30ft and suddenly I see that the big fat blob of Ice I saw from lower in the gully was not part of the route and the akward finish was in fact just a thin runnel.  I had done moves that i did not want to try to reverse so I commited to finishing. The finish climbed easier than it looked but it was no give away. The entire 100ft pitch had me swearing that if I make it through this one I will never solo again ;D

Offline neiceclimber

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #102 on: April 28, 2014, 07:53:05 AM »
I know how you feel Trad. One time I started up the direct just to see how it was. Made it across the small traverse and up maybe 10 feet, didn't really like the detached shell of ice. Started to back down and all the ice below me broke free from the wall, had a little heart to heart with myself and slowly continued up. As it usually does the ice got better up high and was no biggie, but boy does it suck when you realize the only way out is up.

Offline WharfRat

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #103 on: April 28, 2014, 10:27:46 AM »
That direct finish is a blast. I also soloed it early this past season when the first 20ft was nothing more than kitty litter covered by snow. The rest was mostly a rock climb with a little Vera glass thrown into the mix up to the ice bulge and squeeze thingy, that was ice. The great thing is there is actually good feet all the way up. The hands suck but that's mostly cuz everything is slick and snow covered.

It was very very engaging to say the least. At about the ten foot mark it was clear going any further would mean not being able to down climb. The climbing is easy so it seemed like a good idea to continue up. It was maybe the scariest bit of climbing I did all season and I lead a few pitches that took 110% of my focus more than once. A solo of the center talbot was less engaging tbh..


Pretty sure many of us have this experience on the same exact pitch at least once a season?
« Last Edit: April 28, 2014, 01:11:41 PM by WharfRat »

Offline nuts

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Re: Your Finest Solo
« Reply #104 on: April 28, 2014, 12:15:45 PM »
I've encountered SS in those conditions this year too:  snow convered kitty litter, except the rock wasn't frozen together so the feet were terrible (crumbly).

Up North, down Damnation, up Yale, down Central, up Pinnacle, down O'dells.  Pinkham to Pinkham in 4.22.  Pretty sure I'll be under 4 next year.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2014, 12:18:37 PM by nuts »
Chris Magness