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Author Topic: Trad/Sport  (Read 317 times)

strandman

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Trad/Sport
« on: April 29, 2013, 07:48:22 PM »

just to settle thing out a bit, the majority os "trad" lines on Cathedral..etc  are in fact mixed,,, bolts and gear.. It's the way it is .

The lines maybe blurred, but fixed gear does not make a sport route

travel, travel , travel

Western Lady is a good example.. you nee some gear (not much) and nothing for the direct finish... 28 years ago today !Ho man , I'm still remembering that one
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JJ Jameson

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Re: Trad/Sport
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2013, 08:05:21 PM »

Funny John, Back in the day, never even occurred that something was sport or trad in NH, maybe until Rumney started getting developed. Say for example, Bits and Pieces. That's a "sport climb" ?! Better bring spare underwear. How about getting to the bolt on Ventilator? Looking at a grounder for sure.
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terminusnout

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Re: Trad/Sport
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2013, 10:27:05 PM »

I went to farley today and you see the same type of coexistence that most of the conway cliffs have. It was interesting this weekend being in the gunks and chewing the fat with the local climbers there and they way they view ethics.....its all just climbing.
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DaveR

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Re: Trad/Sport
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2013, 11:02:09 PM »

Funny John, Back in the day, never even occurred that something was sport or trad in NH, maybe until Rumney started getting developed. Say for example, Bits and Pieces. That's a "sport climb" ?! Better bring spare underwear. How about getting to the bolt on Ventilator? Looking at a grounder for sure.

Only LL would call Bits and Pieces a sport route!
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lucky luke

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Re: Trad/Sport
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2013, 03:35:10 AM »

Only LL would call Bits and Pieces a sport route!

As the bolt are place by the first ascent, it is in the definition of trad actually. a modern definition could be more clear, but hard to discuss.

for me gear is not climbing. It is gear. stopper evolve to hex, to tricam and friends in the same way that piton evolve as bolt. and power drill bolting.

I did a route and the move was desesperated. with a chance of ground fall. the rock at that plce wasn't very good. I placed two protection and one of them had two pieces and, still, I wasn't sure of that.

for a sport climber, the more efficient move was a kind of overhang where you fall your back first. I use a kind of bridging very unesthetic to finaly clip the bolt and climb the route after without thinking at falling on my back.

I think that the time that we take to think about safety is the reason why many of us wasn't able to climb as strong as sport climber. going on route that we never heard about before, thinking at the way we will fall, never let competition blind a rational decision, be able to critic ourself as pussy or too dangerous without the idea that we are stupid, climbing bottom up, using just enought pro to be chalenging and to have no injury in a fall,  not too much just to decrease the lenght of the fall, etc... is more trad ethic than just gear.   

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Jeff

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Re: Trad/Sport
« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2013, 08:34:13 AM »

Luke-I totally agree with your post  :-\, with the exception of one point of history-- the "first nuts" were hex nuts picked up by climbers hiking up along the Cloggy railroad in Wales, to replace a pocket full of pebbles to jam and then thread with light cord (hemp!); then came some manmade "wedges" (actually cones), then the MOAC, then hexes made of aluminum by Clog and others. The rest is modern history (post 1972).
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lucky luke

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Re: Trad/Sport
« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2013, 08:08:34 PM »

Luke-I totally agree with your post  :-\, with the exception of one point of history-- the "first nuts" were hex nuts picked up by climbers hiking up along the Cloggy railroad in Wales, to replace a pocket full of pebbles to jam and then thread with light cord (hemp!); then came some manmade "wedges" (actually cones), then the MOAC, then hexes made of aluminum by Clog and others. The rest is modern history (post 1972).

you are right 
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