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Author Topic: Practice Climbs for the Prow  (Read 1610 times)

darwined

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Practice Climbs for the Prow
« on: March 28, 2013, 09:52:46 PM »

I don't have much aid climbing experience, four pitches.  I'd like to aid the Prow this year.  Can anyone recommend some practice climbs?  I'd also like to play with hauling a bit.  Is there a climb or climbs out of the way where I could work this stuff?
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Shepherds Pie

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2013, 10:36:51 PM »

Mordor Wall is probably your best bet.  Clean hauling, likely no one else in the way, pretty easy aid.  Get your systems dialed there and the Prow will be a cruise, and no need to haul there so you can concentrate on just getting up quickly and efficiently.
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lucky luke

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2013, 01:41:21 AM »

I don't have much aid climbing experience, four pitches.  I'd like to aid the Prow this year.  Can anyone recommend some practice climbs?  I'd also like to play with hauling a bit.  Is there a climb or climbs out of the way where I could work this stuff?

north end practice slab. There is a lot for haling, I tried the gurdle traverse with a bivy in the middle. when i tried it, I was in an allergic crisis, so I take medecine, my partner arrived late, and we went to bed around two or three, I was sick two or three time during the night and we wake up at five under a hazzle. At night, I just felt a sleep at five o'clock to sevenin the morning. sorry for myh partner.

I don't think that murdor wall is a good idea, even the first pitch. The prow is easy and a good training...it is a practice for murder wall.
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Admin Al

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2013, 06:43:42 AM »

The north end cracks are where most people practice aid. However, wait until all the ice is gone before you go there! There is some B I G stuff up there on the Unicorn.
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John Ski

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2013, 07:57:22 AM »

Razor Crack C1 at Sundown just off the Kanc (see MP write up). Steep,fun, never crowded, even has a roof.
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fresh

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2013, 10:04:06 AM »

Mordor Wall is probably your best bet.  Clean hauling, likely no one else in the way, pretty easy aid.  Get your systems dialed there and the Prow will be a cruise, and no need to haul there so you can concentrate on just getting up quickly and efficiently.
I think he's talking about the prow of cathedral, not the prow of washington column.
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frik

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2013, 10:14:12 AM »

Best practice climb for the prow..... is the prow.....honestly.
At's A1 and retreat from anywhere is fast & easy.
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Climber57r

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2013, 02:04:26 PM »

PWay man. Multiple cracks there. Mordor is much tougher than the Prow for sure..but you don't have to worry about a party behind you usually. Had to do a few hook moves. Yellow Zonkers is good for a steep crack line and very little traffic at that crag (Prob a good haul line w/ the steeps). Let me know and we can get out there. Catch ya soon. The Prow is super clean..work on the efficiency and it s/b a breeze.
For Jugging I practice in my only tree..haha. Throw the rope over a high branch and jug away.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2013, 09:04:37 PM »

I 2nd the Prow for the Prow.
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steve weitzler

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2013, 12:15:42 PM »

I agree. Just go up on the Prow and fumble around. By the end of the day you will have it all figured out. I thinks that is how we all learned.
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SA

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #10 on: April 06, 2013, 05:23:51 PM »

I was pretty much self taught when it comes to aid climbing.

Just go up on the Prow and teach yourself. It's already an established route and your not likely to get hurt.

As was said earlier--you can rap the route easily.
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lucky luke

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #11 on: April 17, 2013, 10:40:56 AM »

I was pretty much self taught when it comes to aid climbing.
After I learned the basic, I trained on top rope. Placing one pro in a spot, eye ball it, removing the pro and placing and other in the same place...and do it for a third time to stan on the last one I place. As we saw obvious things first, the first pro is very good, second less and some times the last one is... In that way, you learned to place three times more pro and if you look at your pro when you weight them...you will see how they pop up in a crack. An exercise better to learn in a top rope on aid than in a 5.9 moved. As a free climbing leader, you will place 7 or 8 pro in a pitch and never weight them, except when the accident happen. oups!

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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #12 on: April 18, 2013, 06:43:52 AM »

Top rope aid practice? ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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strandman

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #13 on: April 18, 2013, 10:24:02 AM »

That's called sport climbing   ;D
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kenreville

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Re: Practice Climbs for the Prow
« Reply #14 on: April 18, 2013, 02:33:01 PM »

That's called sport climbing   ;D

Or hangdog aid climbing?
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