Author Topic: THE route  (Read 396 times)

Offline strandman

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THE route
« on: September 28, 2013, 06:14:35 PM »
What was the route that really made climbing for you ??? the one that you said " I REALLY like this"  or the breakthrough route as far as difficulty ?

Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: THE route
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2013, 06:54:11 PM »
What was the route that really made climbing for you ??? the one that you said " I REALLY like this"  or the breakthrough route as far as difficulty ?

Blue Rose, the very best route in Maryland (which isn't saying much). Also one of the biggest sandbags in MD. When I first sent it in 1991, I was hooked for good. It's not a tall route, and the crag ain't pretty, but I still love this little gem.

http://mountainproject.com/v/blue-rose/106499394
We came to climb, not to whine.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: THE route
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2013, 07:12:01 PM »
Lost Souls... my first 5.10 on-site as a leader
Al Hospers
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Offline JoeC

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Re: THE route
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2013, 08:27:52 PM »
Rapid Transit.  First 10 trad lead and I onsighted it.

Offline Jeff

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Re: THE route
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2013, 09:01:59 PM »
My first lead (on sight) of Sound & Fury at Sky Top at the Gunks; we were using the old red Art Gran guide book which had it at 5.6; I sweated and swore, down climbed and re-climbed to the crux, finally pulled it and somehow made it through to the belay. Afterwards in the Brau Haus, while spouting about it being the hardest 5.6 around, I was told " it's common knowledge that Sound & Fury is hard 5.8!"  I was stoked for a month! 8)  BTW, that was in the days of pounding (and removing) pins on every pitch; I later did it with nuts, and later, cams, several times and every time I admired the fact that somehow I had succeeded in hanging on to finish it clean my first time on it! Unhappily, Sky Top and its many superb climbs has been closed for at least 10 years to anyone not staying overnight, or at least dining, at the Mohonk House, and employing a guide from the one permitted guide service. :-\

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Re: THE route
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2013, 09:06:38 PM »
Lakeview, Cannon, 5.5. I was 16 and it was my third attempt (route-finding issues the first 2). Finishing the final corner and sitting out on the brow of the now gone Old Man looking down at 93 below was just... wow...

Still waiting for that “break-through” climb difficult wise but onsighting Recompense ten years ago comes close...

Offline strandman

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Re: THE route
« Reply #6 on: September 28, 2013, 09:47:02 PM »
Maybe Children's Crusade  i did the first pitch on a very early ascent of the climb, maybe 4th or 5th and Al Comeau (f/a) came over and said "nice lead kid, keep going"

Offline sneoh

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Re: THE route
« Reply #7 on: September 28, 2013, 10:30:02 PM »
So many that I REALLY like.
For breakthrough grade, got to be my very first .10 (sport) on-sight; Green Piece (not Peace), Butchers, NRG, 20 years ago this Fall.

Satisfaction wise, flash of Sancho Belige (two or three routes over from Green Piece) and, in the process, winning a six-pack from Whitey, without whom I would not have tried so hard.

Only one, John?  Not sure why to where to place my first Gunks .8, .9, and .10.  I am so conflicted :)


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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: THE route
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2013, 08:00:35 AM »
Too many to even remember all of them but here are a few. My first time out west. east face of Teeweniot.  Knew that i had to be a real climber. Everything Charlie Gray and I did  in the gunks and my first trip out west with him to Colorado, Utah and Red Rocks Nev 1986.

My first time up 20 below led the whole thing. First time up the Black Dike led the whole thing. Alden dragging Bob and I up Le Promenade changed the way I felt about what was possible on ice. last Gent felt like a life time dream when I led it.   Ragnarock felt absolutly intense.  soloing Pinnacle BINTD..

The needles of SD planted the seed of wanting to hand drill ground up FA's Celibacy was my first really good route in that style and stands the test of time as a great route.  The 3 pitch 10a Isabella on Bird Mtn was my last hand drilled GU and a great adventure climb despite the somewhat questionable VT rock quality. Ed somehow hooking me on rap bolting. Many breakthrough routes for me @ my new semi secret cliff  8)


Offline strandman

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Re: THE route
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2013, 11:05:47 AM »
Free climbing Aiwass in'83 was a real deal...not many 5.12's around then, and we caught some shit for the rating.  I guess it's stood up though. For a couple of Quarry rats it was part of our upbringing.

Offline steveclimbs

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Re: THE route
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2013, 01:58:45 PM »
Midway through my first summer of climbing, I lead all three pitches of recompense.  I walked the first two pitches, and walked the last until I made a move to exit and the rope came tight and next thing I was looking at my belay partner.  This sealed it for me.  My first fall as a leader and my nuts and cams all held.  Man what a rush.  Thanks Enis for the catch! ;)

However, the climb that improved my confidence the most was, Intimidation to bicycle, to ant line crack to the last pitch of ant line.  Once I finally had this dialed it seemed to me that I had finally developed some skills.