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Author Topic: Your Finest Whipper  (Read 2740 times)

strandman

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #45 on: April 08, 2013, 09:40:01 AM »

Not the longest or most damaging but...

During the f/a of Clean Sweep on Cathedral. TC gets a couple bolts in and lowers, i go up and start the crux traverse almost to a stance and ..WHIP down and across the slab.. crack go the ribs from the swami belt knot. Along with a pretty big gasp from the tourists atop the Prow area.
Time for  beer break and we go up the cleaning line.. One person says " some woman is really upset about that fall. She thinks you died" So i go out to the parking and it's MY MOTHER !!!! Oh no.. she;s crying and hyperventilating and... Tc is like " No, he's fine"  No he;s dead, i know it"
of course mom gives a me a giant bear hug.. right across the ribs  AAAHHHH..... only time she ever watched me climb
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mopowers

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #46 on: April 08, 2013, 10:07:10 AM »

I have taken a few 25'-30' but only one i remember well. I have been lucky enough to get away with most of the stupid things i have done. On the FA of The Other One on Mt. Hor i took a big fall that required dental work afterwords. The first pitch is brutally hard. The crux is a very thin and steep slab, i could not figure out the sequence so i did not want to place any bolts. I decided to just hook past that section and work it out later on TR. Already above gear i headed up on several consecutive hook moves. Well, slab and hooking dont mix well and i eventually popped a hook, caught it in the mouth and took a big ride. My dentist is a real arm chair mountaineer, he scolded me and stated that i should never go climbing without a professional mountain guide.

My favorite whipper story is the guy who took two consecutive 80' on The Promenade. Apparently it was a full on upside down superman for 80'. He got right back on it and did it a second time. I  believe Alden got a sequence shot of the action that was published in Rock and Ice or Climbing.   
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sneoh

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #47 on: April 08, 2013, 10:33:26 AM »

A GREAT story, John!
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dpen

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #48 on: April 08, 2013, 11:39:45 AM »

Quote
Took a nasty long fall off the top of the flake on "Flying Jib" with Dave Penny belaying. Thought the suffer fest was over...15' above a #2 Cam in the flexing creaking flake...saw the promised land about 6' above me...thought about placing one more piece but thought...how hard can it be...I will just fire for the bolt. Two moves up and the right foot slid out on moss and lichen and off I came. I watched all the pieces as I soared by them and heard the explosion of the #2 Cam levering and catching my fall. Dave said all he saw was a blur of flailing arms and legs followed by a cloud of stone dust and pebbles!! It was a good 25-30'r.

Yeah buddy!   A big PFFF of dust!   Great climb though....
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old_school

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #49 on: April 08, 2013, 02:14:02 PM »

Quote
Took a nasty long fall off the top of the flake on "Flying Jib" with Dave Penny belaying. Thought the suffer fest was over...15' above a #2 Cam in the flexing creaking flake...saw the promised land about 6' above me...thought about placing one more piece but thought...how hard can it be...I will just fire for the bolt. Two moves up and the right foot slid out on moss and lichen and off I came. I watched all the pieces as I soared by them and heard the explosion of the #2 Cam levering and catching my fall. Dave said all he saw was a blur of flailing arms and legs followed by a cloud of stone dust and pebbles!! It was a good 25-30'r.

Yeah buddy!   A big PFFF of dust!   Great climb though....

Lol....that was a fun day!!   ;)
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

kenreville

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #50 on: April 08, 2013, 04:46:19 PM »

I have taken a few 25'-30' but only one i remember well. I have been lucky enough to get away with most of the stupid things i have done. On the FA of The Other One on Mt. Hor i took a big fall that required dental work afterwords. The first pitch is brutally hard. The crux is a very thin and steep slab, i could not figure out the sequence so i did not want to place any bolts. I decided to just hook past that section and work it out later on TR. Already above gear i headed up on several consecutive hook moves. Well, slab and hooking dont mix well and i eventually popped a hook, caught it in the mouth and took a big ride. My dentist is a real arm chair mountaineer, he scolded me and stated that i should never go climbing without a professional mountain guide.

My favorite whipper story is the guy who took two consecutive 80' on The Promenade. Apparently it was a full on upside down superman for 80'. He got right back on it and did it a second time. I  believe Alden got a sequence shot of the action that was published in Rock and Ice or Climbing.

80ft off Promenade is impressive.
Doing it again?
WTF?
If I ever took an 80ft fall while ice climbing, it's doubtful that I'd be able to muster up the sack to go back up the same day. That said, I'd damn sure have a plan the 2nd time around.
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Admin Al

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #51 on: April 08, 2013, 04:50:57 PM »

WTF... how does someone let themselves get 40' out on an ice climb? and TWICE?????
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #52 on: April 08, 2013, 06:04:18 PM »

The real funny thing is Alden hollers over from  Whoes Who. "This ain't Fckn Sport climbing!"
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #53 on: April 08, 2013, 06:19:48 PM »

80' on rock is pretty bad,, only 2x... on ICE ? that's crazy.

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MT

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #54 on: April 08, 2013, 07:02:05 PM »

 
[/quote]

If I ever took an 80ft fall while ice climbing, it's doubtful that I'd be able to muster up the sack to go back up the same day. That said, I'd damn sure have a plan the 2nd time around.
[/quote]

Thin line between a lot of "sack" and too little common sense  ;)
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #55 on: April 08, 2013, 07:14:46 PM »

Here's my best one 'cause it fits the solo and whipper categories

Qiuncey Quarries  '87.. it had rained non stop for maybe 6 weeks, shit climbing, etc.. clear and 70, off i go to savage Direct a Qaurries 5.9 (10+)  Ihave done it maybe 20 times. up to the edges , pop for the 2 finger pocket and .. it's wet... i try the final move and OFF

grab the starting ledge enough to break a thumb and stay up right.. down maybe 30-35' and crash on the left leg.

Quick assessment.. no bones, lotsa blood and shock coming soon.. i'm the only one in the Quarries.

out by water ? quick- infection for sure,, climb back up the 4th classcorner ? well, not much choice.

igetto the cat,ofcoursea5speedandalocal says "you don't look so good"Hospital"fell climbing on rocks" 45mm puncturewound

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radair

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #56 on: April 15, 2013, 09:48:01 PM »

Not really a "whipper", but I took an extreme fall while telemarking down Left Gully in Tuck's with Rob Adair.
I've had "life" flashes 3 times in my life. This flash was longer than I would've liked.

Midwinter, hard as a sidewalk.....I'm still to this day happy to be alive.
Ken, you must have said "no fall terrain" 10 times as we booted up that gully, then promptly blew the first turn. From that point you looked like a cartoon character, a big snowball with an occasional arm or leg sticking out. I wasn't sure what I was going to find at the bottom. It was quite a relief to find you upright. That was a sight I won't forget.

The first time I ever used crampons was in Tucks in 1980. The snow was perfect neve and there had been a big wet snow avalanche out of the center of the bowl, which had refrozen. My friend & I cramponed about 3/4 of the way up headwall on snow and traversed into the iced up scar from the right side, then climbed a short water ice bulge (with one 70 cm axe) to a ledge. We turned around to a shitload of exposure and I said to him, "now show me how we get down". He starts crabbing his way down while facing out and immediately his feet skate out from under him and he is flying down that ice; flipping and tumbling. I thought, this guy is dead, when he suddenly does a backflip, lands flat on his back and stops. I thought to myself, I'm not going to do it that way. I faced in and welded that axe on every placement, got back on the snow and hiked down around the gash. He had a huge orange in his pack the size of a grapefruit that was completely flattened. That's another little movie clip in my head that I'll always have to watch again..

I never really took any long whippers - too scared to let gravity take over. Either that or I blocked 'em all out.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #57 on: April 15, 2013, 09:51:01 PM »

The last time i used crampons was to approach a crag in Crawford notch... needed.  leaf crampons
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pappy

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #58 on: September 02, 2013, 09:45:59 AM »

Dunno if it will register up here, but Lee Carter passed on 8/25. Strand might know him, or at least the name, Lee was right up until he died one of the old time NC hard men, with hundreds of FAs scattered across secret crags throughout the south. I only got to climb with him a couple of times, the last about seven years ago when I took Lee, Tom McMillan, Kenny, and the rest of the reprobate crew to Reel Cove for the weekend, Reel being a cliff line in the Sequatchie (TN) that a small crew of us got to feast on for several years, ~95% as good, and even more extensive, than T-Wall, and we had it all to ourselves. It was the kind of shit these guys lived for. I mention this because there were seven of us and three (Lee, Curt Johnson--Dirtneye for those of you who lurk on SuperTaco--and Jim Okel, another old time southern bad ass) are now dead, which is pretty distressing. We're not that old.

I'm putting this in this thread because the memorials reminded me of one of THE great falls ever, one that by definition almost can't be surpassed, courtesy of Mr. Carter. He was leading 'Free Man in Paris' at Looking Glass, perhaps the quintessential Rotert death route. The crux pitch is solid 5.10 with zero gear. Lee managed to place an SMC(!) cam ten feet off the belay and then ran it out, and according to John Crofts, the belayer, and eye witnesses, he had just about reached the end of the rope when he fell, for a solid 300 footer down 80 degree granite, on a swami belt. He not only lived, but managed (with assistance) to walk out and once at the car insisted on some herbal medication to assist with coping with the drive to the Brevard ER, a therapy that Crofts considered contra indicated for a possible punctured lung (it was), but, what the hell, Lee was a climber. I don't know what got him yet, all they say is a 'short illness', but obviously on the rock he was basically an immortal. Free Man has forever since been renamed as 'Dead Man in Pisgah'. It doesn't get repeated. RIP Lee.
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strandman

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Re: Your Finest Whipper
« Reply #59 on: September 02, 2013, 11:45:08 AM »

I knew of lee, never met him..too bad .
dead man was described to me  By Rotert..through those mirro lense shade and shit eating grin  'it's pretty run out"
he didn't use that term very often
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