Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Admin Al]

After an exactly 6 hour drive we arrived on Sunday in time to get in a short climb. We decided on Katzenjammer, a supposed 5.6 before the Uberfall area. As always it is a trick to get used to different rock and grades. It's not a great climb, but I managed it OK. George was wearing a long sleeve pinstriped shirt and several people walking by commented on how stylish he looked!

Monday we met our friend Pauline and climbed with her. We started with Jackie, a nice 5.5, that George led. Then I did Classic, a supposed 5.7. I remember doing it 20 years ago, but the move above the 1st pin was really wiggy. The rock is much more polished than I remember. However the rest is guide nice. Next we went over to finish Miss Bailey, we only did the first pitch last fall. George led pitches 1 & 3 and I did 2. I still don't like the chimney, George made short work of it, but the other pitches were quite nice.

Not sure about plans for today other than Middle Earth and maybe Ants Line. Unfortunately the weather doesn't look great for tomorrow, Thursday. We shall see...

[sneoh]

Nice.
Al, if you haven't yet, be sure to climb some over at The Nears.  Lots of good stuff there.
Whatever you do, have a great time.

And perhaps you should do Modern Times and set the record straight for LL/Champ and Jake

[Admin Al]

Well we just finished Limelight and Quiver, right of Arrow. George is climbing great. Weather might be bad tomorrow. Not sure what we will do in that case.

[Admin Al]

FYI George led the money pitch of Madame G!!!

[JakeDatc]

Nice.
Al, if you haven't yet, be sure to climb some over at The Nears.  Lots of good stuff there.
Whatever you do, have a great time.

And perhaps you should do Modern Times and set the record straight for LL/Champ and Jake

not that there is any record to set..

Absurdland ...  Son of easy O..  Bonnie's Roof ..   Strickley from nowhere..   Bloody bush(2nd favorite easy climb, Easy-baby is #1  Easy O p1 to Baby p2 .6 roof woo!) .    Something Interesting.. if even to just go look at Dangler up close

If you go to the Nears.. Birdland is sweet..  Roseland might remind you of your slippery granite

Soon we should go to the gunks sometime

[sneoh]

Also at The Nears; Alphonse and Farewell to Arms.  And Gelsa.  I can't say I liked Yellow Ridge or Disneyland.  To each his/her own I suppose.
Shitface is a really good TR off P1 anchors of Roseland.  Practically two GOOD climbs for the prize of one!  Roseland will get you pumped!

Yes, Jake, that would be great, as long as you are up for leading everything harder than 5.4
But before that I need to make it to VT this year for some climbing!

[Admin Al]

Back at our room again. I think both of us are a bit tired tonite. Neither of us usually climbs 3 days in a row. It's a good tired tho. This morning on the way in we saw Silas Rossi and a client coming up the stair master. He is doing a slide show on Saturday here in New Paltz. It is about his and Peter Doucete's recent trip to Alaska. I wish we were going to be here to see it.

[Admin Al]

I'd wanted to do Middle Earth, but there were kids with a TR On it so we moved along. We finished off Tuesday with Limelight and Quiver. When we got up Wednesday morning it was raining and so we went over to check out the new visitor center. We both thought it actually was pretty neat and since it was free, worth seeing. By then it was 10am and it kept up the rain and the prediction was for more on Thursday  so we decided to come on home. It rained on and off the whole way back, so it was probably a reasonable call.

Tho we lost a day, it was a great trip for both of us. We did some new climbs, we did before but love, enjoyed the company of new and old friends and savored the warm sunny days. We're already planning our fall trip back!

[eyebolter]

Also at The Nears; Alphonse and Farewell to Arms.  And Gelsa.  I can't say I liked Yellow Ridge or Disneyland.  To each his/her own I suppose.
Shitface is a really good TR off P1 anchors of Roseland.  Practically two GOOD climbs for the prize of one!  Roseland will get you pumped!

Yes, Jake, that would be great, as long as you are up for leading everything harder than 5.4
But before that I need to make it to VT this year for some climbing!

Gelsa.....spectacular climb but that last pitch is an absolute pile.  First did it when I was 16 and I didn't know how loose all that stuff was; the last time I did it (after Mrs. Eyebolter led Roseland) I mostly ran it out since none of the gear would hold a fall anyway and would probably bring a big block down on you as well.  I am very surprised that more people don't die there.

You didn't like the last pitch of Yellow Ridge?  You blaspheme....please don't tell me that Funhouse is a better 5.7.

[sneoh]

It has been 20 years since I was last on FH.  I honestly do not remember a thing about it.  Rather memorable I guess!
And I not sure I did the last pitch of YR either.  That would explain it.
I definitely remember not liking Disneyland.  That cramped 1st belay is nuts. I know people string the short 1st and 2nd pitches together but that was not what we did.

[JakeDatc]

It has been 20 years since I was last on FH.  I honestly do not remember a thing about it.  Rather memorable I guess!
And I not sure I did the last pitch of YR either.  That would explain it.
I definitely remember not liking Disneyland.  That cramped 1st belay is nuts. I know people string the short 1st and 2nd pitches together but that was not what we did.

definitely do Disneyland in 2 pitches not 3..  doubles or long slings. 

haven't done Yellow ridge yet.   but Up Yours .7  and Eastertime Too .8 down on the far end are awesome (though you have to either go around up top or skitter through the douchebag's "closed" trail

[eyebolter]

It has been 20 years since I was last on FH.  I honestly do not remember a thing about it.  Rather memorable I guess!
And I not sure I did the last pitch of YR either.  That would explain it.
I definitely remember not liking Disneyland.  That cramped 1st belay is nuts. I know people string the short 1st and 2nd pitches together but that was not what we did.

20 years for me too Soon, at least, but picture a 5.7 corner to a big ledge (pine needles) , then a 5.6 face up to a tree ledge (more pine needles), then something else about 5.6 that I can't remember to more trees and pine needles.  Three stars if you like ledges and pine needles, lol.

The last pitch of Yellow Ridge is the 5.7 Cathedral wishes it had.   I mean, Whitney G is a classic, even though the rock is crap; it is airy and has classic positioning.  Funhouse is a ledge and tree hop and maybe a one star route, though it was my first Cathedral route in 1978 as I was too intimidated by Thin Air.

I never thought that Disneyland was as great as people said.  Madame G's is 10 times better at the grade.

[strandman]

FH is aroute the glacier gods installed for guides and soloists.. 

[sneoh]

There are SO MANY great 5.6 and 5.7 (Gunks grading) routes; HighE (from GT Ledge up), Limelight, Madame G, Strictly, and Something Interesting.  I think my fave is SI from the ground to GT in one pitch, 130 feet I believe.