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the flakes fine. you don't even have to pull on it. I did put my foot on it though. there is a bit of loose rock on other parts of the route but hey its not sport climbing at rumney.
Replace it! If that bolt was relatively good for the FA party, it should remain good for all who follow. Maybe, with a new bolt, people would actually climb the thing.
dude don't even ask, just go replace those 1/4ers. a claw on a hammer works well to get behind the bolt and hit the other end with another hammer. I have been replacing the pins on one of the 11's at the lookout wall, update that shank gear!
don't use your teeth they cost to much.
Grammy- you'll fucking live.. ti's great line and maybe you will puke like I did ..I can't believe some of the routes done in the 79-82 era.. fucking crazy-- budapest (10+) misty, etcEd Webster said to me one time " i have never done a 5.12" well exceptfor Women in Love,, etc.. maybe the best route on Cathedral "? Wild Women is as good as the Naked Edge for sure,, maybe better
Quote from: JBeta on May 14, 2013, 01:36:18 PMReplace it! If that bolt was relatively good for the FA party, it should remain good for all who follow. Maybe, with a new bolt, people would actually climb the thing.Totally agree. I will replace it on Thursday...but still have to pull through that damned crux on the 1/4" to get the damned rope up there!!!
Old School:For what it's worth, I'm the person who placed the (now rusty) bolt on the first pitch of Thwarthog. You are encouraged to replace it with a beefer, newer bolt in the same hole. Note, however, that on the FA, the first pitch was protected by tied off pins - the bolt was added after the FA. Here's hoping the route gets more traffic after your efforts. Thanks for the modernization!
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