NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Down

Author Topic: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown  (Read 1357 times)

old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2314
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #15 on: May 14, 2013, 10:37:09 AM »

the flakes fine.  you don't even have to pull on it. I did put my foot on it though.  there is a bit of loose rock on other parts of the route but hey its not sport climbing at rumney.

Damn..see...now I am curious!!! :-\  lol
Logged
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2314
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #16 on: May 14, 2013, 10:41:34 AM »

Krankonthis...

Any thoughts on that rusty 1/4" leaper at the crux of Thwarthog? I have a replacement for it, wanted to know what people thought. I can use the original hole.

~g
Logged
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

JBeta

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 130
  • Pull down, not out.
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #17 on: May 14, 2013, 01:36:18 PM »

Replace it! If that bolt was relatively good for the FA party, it should remain good for all who follow.

Maybe, with a new bolt, people would actually climb the thing.
Logged

old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2314
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #18 on: May 14, 2013, 01:57:56 PM »

Replace it! If that bolt was relatively good for the FA party, it should remain good for all who follow.

Maybe, with a new bolt, people would actually climb the thing.

Totally agree. I will replace it on Thursday...but still have to pull through that damned crux on the 1/4" to get the damned rope up there!!!  :-X
Logged
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

krankonthis

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 84
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #19 on: May 14, 2013, 02:00:17 PM »

dude don't even ask, just go replace those 1/4ers. a claw on a hammer works well to get behind the bolt and hit the other end with another hammer.  I have been replacing the pins on one of the 11's at the lookout wall, update that shank gear!
Logged

old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2314
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #20 on: May 14, 2013, 02:01:30 PM »

dude don't even ask, just go replace those 1/4ers. a claw on a hammer works well to get behind the bolt and hit the other end with another hammer.  I have been replacing the pins on one of the 11's at the lookout wall, update that shank gear!

I can pull this one out with my teeth or a can opener Sam..lol. She will go!  ;)
Logged
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

krankonthis

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 84
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #21 on: May 14, 2013, 04:24:00 PM »

don't use your teeth they cost to much.
Logged

old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2314
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #22 on: May 14, 2013, 04:31:56 PM »

don't use your teeth they cost to much.

shit....good point  :P
Logged
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4472
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #23 on: May 14, 2013, 06:37:03 PM »

Grammy- you'll fucking live.. ti's great line and maybe you will puke like I did ..I can't believe some of the routes done in the 79-82 era.. fucking crazy-- budapest (10+) :P misty, etc

Ed Webster said to me one time " i have never done a 5.12"  well exceptfor Women in Love,, etc.. maybe the best route on Cathedral "? Wild Women is as good as the Naked Edge for sure,, maybe better
Logged

old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2314
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #24 on: May 14, 2013, 06:44:52 PM »

Grammy- you'll fucking live.. ti's great line and maybe you will puke like I did ..I can't believe some of the routes done in the 79-82 era.. fucking crazy-- budapest (10+) :P misty, etc

Ed Webster said to me one time " i have never done a 5.12"  well exceptfor Women in Love,, etc.. maybe the best route on Cathedral "? Wild Women is as good as the Naked Edge for sure,, maybe better

Definitely one on the radar Strandman! Looks like such a cool line...truly. Puking is fine...and Jason Kruk already shit his pants...so I really have nothing to lose!!!  ;D
Logged
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

JBeta

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 130
  • Pull down, not out.
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #25 on: May 15, 2013, 09:42:22 AM »

Replace it! If that bolt was relatively good for the FA party, it should remain good for all who follow.

Maybe, with a new bolt, people would actually climb the thing.

Totally agree. I will replace it on Thursday...but still have to pull through that damned crux on the 1/4" to get the damned rope up there!!!  :-X

Rap from the top brother! Just like God intended!
Logged

Gunkswest

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 26
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #26 on: May 15, 2013, 09:42:45 AM »

Old School:

For what it's worth, I'm the person who placed the (now rusty) bolt on the first pitch of Thwarthog. You are encouraged to replace it with a beefer, newer bolt in the same hole. Note, however, that on the FA, the first pitch was protected by tied off pins - the bolt was added after the FA. Here's hoping the route gets more traffic after your efforts. Thanks for the modernization!

For an easier but scarier version of Thwarthog, do the Black Wall, which is located just to the right (5.7+ R [note the good old "+" after the seven]).

Also, to the left of Pressure Drop is Blank on the Map (named for a Shipton book), which as I remember, was a pretty good route as well.
Logged

old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2314
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #27 on: May 15, 2013, 09:53:13 AM »

Old School:

For what it's worth, I'm the person who placed the (now rusty) bolt on the first pitch of Thwarthog. You are encouraged to replace it with a beefer, newer bolt in the same hole. Note, however, that on the FA, the first pitch was protected by tied off pins - the bolt was added after the FA. Here's hoping the route gets more traffic after your efforts. Thanks for the modernization!


So is this Todd? Tied off pins? are you insane???  lol. Really fun route. Looks like some key holds broke off at the top of the first pitch..near the exit moves. They are a bit tricky and hard to protect. Fresh blonde rock patches right where you wish you had some hands and feet. That corner is pretty damn cool and the heart is in the throat when you move up and past that leaper. I think the route is totally worthy and hope that more people make the effort to get out to it. Old School flavor to heighten the awareness so to speak!  ;)
Logged
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4472
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #28 on: May 15, 2013, 06:10:40 PM »

Grammy- you need some pins ???.. i got tie off webbing too... :-*
Logged

kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 440
Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #29 on: May 15, 2013, 09:07:40 PM »

the flakes fine.  you don't even have to pull on it. I did put my foot on it though.  there is a bit of loose rock on other parts of the route but hey its not sport climbing at rumney.

True. I recall you really don't pull up on the flake.
Thing was- there was a wasp nest battle and a few giant spiders with death webs on the 1st pitch.
Started up, wrapped on the flake.....
"We're flookin outta here."

Never been back.
Logged
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.136 seconds with 23 queries.