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Author Topic: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown  (Read 2156 times)

Offline old_school

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #15 on: May 14, 2013, 10:37:09 AM »
Quote from: krankonthis on May 14, 2013, 10:34:48 AM
the flakes fine.  you don't even have to pull on it. I did put my foot on it though.  there is a bit of loose rock on other parts of the route but hey its not sport climbing at rumney.

Damn..see...now I am curious!!! :-\  lol
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Offline old_school

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #16 on: May 14, 2013, 10:41:34 AM »
Krankonthis...

Any thoughts on that rusty 1/4" leaper at the crux of Thwarthog? I have a replacement for it, wanted to know what people thought. I can use the original hole.

~g
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Offline JBeta

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #17 on: May 14, 2013, 01:36:18 PM »
Replace it! If that bolt was relatively good for the FA party, it should remain good for all who follow.

Maybe, with a new bolt, people would actually climb the thing.
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Offline old_school

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #18 on: May 14, 2013, 01:57:56 PM »
Quote from: JBeta on May 14, 2013, 01:36:18 PM
Replace it! If that bolt was relatively good for the FA party, it should remain good for all who follow.

Maybe, with a new bolt, people would actually climb the thing.

Totally agree. I will replace it on Thursday...but still have to pull through that damned crux on the 1/4" to get the damned rope up there!!!  :-X
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Offline krankonthis

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #19 on: May 14, 2013, 02:00:17 PM »
dude don't even ask, just go replace those 1/4ers. a claw on a hammer works well to get behind the bolt and hit the other end with another hammer.  I have been replacing the pins on one of the 11's at the lookout wall, update that shank gear!
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Offline old_school

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #20 on: May 14, 2013, 02:01:30 PM »
Quote from: krankonthis on May 14, 2013, 02:00:17 PM
dude don't even ask, just go replace those 1/4ers. a claw on a hammer works well to get behind the bolt and hit the other end with another hammer.  I have been replacing the pins on one of the 11's at the lookout wall, update that shank gear!

I can pull this one out with my teeth or a can opener Sam..lol. She will go!  ;)
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Offline krankonthis

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #21 on: May 14, 2013, 04:24:00 PM »
don't use your teeth they cost to much.
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Offline old_school

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #22 on: May 14, 2013, 04:31:56 PM »
Quote from: krankonthis on May 14, 2013, 04:24:00 PM
don't use your teeth they cost to much.

shit....good point  :P
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Offline strandman

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #23 on: May 14, 2013, 06:37:03 PM »
Grammy- you'll fucking live.. ti's great line and maybe you will puke like I did ..I can't believe some of the routes done in the 79-82 era.. fucking crazy-- budapest (10+) :P misty, etc

Ed Webster said to me one time " i have never done a 5.12"  well exceptfor Women in Love,, etc.. maybe the best route on Cathedral "? Wild Women is as good as the Naked Edge for sure,, maybe better
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Offline old_school

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #24 on: May 14, 2013, 06:44:52 PM »
Quote from: strandman on May 14, 2013, 06:37:03 PM
Grammy- you'll fucking live.. ti's great line and maybe you will puke like I did ..I can't believe some of the routes done in the 79-82 era.. fucking crazy-- budapest (10+) :P misty, etc

Ed Webster said to me one time " i have never done a 5.12"  well exceptfor Women in Love,, etc.. maybe the best route on Cathedral "? Wild Women is as good as the Naked Edge for sure,, maybe better

Definitely one on the radar Strandman! Looks like such a cool line...truly. Puking is fine...and Jason Kruk already shit his pants...so I really have nothing to lose!!!  ;D
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Offline JBeta

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #25 on: May 15, 2013, 09:42:22 AM »
Quote from: old_school on May 14, 2013, 01:57:56 PM
Quote from: JBeta on May 14, 2013, 01:36:18 PM
Replace it! If that bolt was relatively good for the FA party, it should remain good for all who follow.

Maybe, with a new bolt, people would actually climb the thing.

Totally agree. I will replace it on Thursday...but still have to pull through that damned crux on the 1/4" to get the damned rope up there!!!  :-X

Rap from the top brother! Just like God intended!
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Offline Gunkswest

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #26 on: May 15, 2013, 09:42:45 AM »
Old School:

For what it's worth, I'm the person who placed the (now rusty) bolt on the first pitch of Thwarthog. You are encouraged to replace it with a beefer, newer bolt in the same hole. Note, however, that on the FA, the first pitch was protected by tied off pins - the bolt was added after the FA. Here's hoping the route gets more traffic after your efforts. Thanks for the modernization!

For an easier but scarier version of Thwarthog, do the Black Wall, which is located just to the right (5.7+ R [note the good old "+" after the seven]).

Also, to the left of Pressure Drop is Blank on the Map (named for a Shipton book), which as I remember, was a pretty good route as well.
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Offline old_school

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #27 on: May 15, 2013, 09:53:13 AM »
Quote from: Gunkswest on May 15, 2013, 09:42:45 AM
Old School:

For what it's worth, I'm the person who placed the (now rusty) bolt on the first pitch of Thwarthog. You are encouraged to replace it with a beefer, newer bolt in the same hole. Note, however, that on the FA, the first pitch was protected by tied off pins - the bolt was added after the FA. Here's hoping the route gets more traffic after your efforts. Thanks for the modernization!


So is this Todd? Tied off pins? are you insane???  lol. Really fun route. Looks like some key holds broke off at the top of the first pitch..near the exit moves. They are a bit tricky and hard to protect. Fresh blonde rock patches right where you wish you had some hands and feet. That corner is pretty damn cool and the heart is in the throat when you move up and past that leaper. I think the route is totally worthy and hope that more people make the effort to get out to it. Old School flavor to heighten the awareness so to speak!  ;)
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline strandman

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #28 on: May 15, 2013, 06:10:40 PM »
Grammy- you need some pins ???.. i got tie off webbing too... :-*
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Offline kenreville

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Re: Thwarthog - Far Cliff. Sundown
« Reply #29 on: May 15, 2013, 09:07:40 PM »
Quote from: krankonthis on May 14, 2013, 10:34:48 AM
the flakes fine.  you don't even have to pull on it. I did put my foot on it though.  there is a bit of loose rock on other parts of the route but hey its not sport climbing at rumney.

True. I recall you really don't pull up on the flake.
Thing was- there was a wasp nest battle and a few giant spiders with death webs on the 1st pitch.
Started up, wrapped on the flake.....
"We're flookin outta here."

Never been back.
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