General > Rock Climbing: Sport

Sport Climbing Weekend from New York

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GazLeah:
Hey,

I came to New York a year ago and have been climbing all the local places like the gunks and other nearby crags. I'm really beginning to miss sport climbing but can't find any where to go without travelling a long way.

I'm visiting birdsboro this weekend but does anyone know of other sport climbing venue i can visit. I know of rumney but thats an epic journey from new york.

Is there a reason why there's very little sport climbing on the east coast? Meaning ethical rather than the fact that just no one has got round to bolting anything.

Cheers

Gaz

OldEric:
Eyebolter?  This one is lobbed up for you.  Swing away.

DLottmann:
Has to do with type of rock mostly... Gunks protects well with gear so it isn't a sport mecca. You'll want to visit Rumney or  WV, NC, TN.... lots of East Coast sport climbing....

danf:
Dave, from what I've seen there's more than one climb at Rumney that would be pretty well protected with gear too but have bolts instead...  At the very least many lines could be considered "mixed" trad/sport if they weren't entirely bolted.  I'm not really complaining about it though- I'm happy to have a place like Rumney close, gives me the ability to get experience and learn/figure out technique. 

JakeDatc:

--- Quote from: danf on April 12, 2013, 10:29:11 AM ---Dave, from what I've seen there's more than one climb at Rumney that would be pretty well protected with gear too but have bolts instead...  At the very least many lines could be considered "mixed" trad/sport if they weren't entirely bolted.  I'm not really complaining about it though- I'm happy to have a place like Rumney close, gives me the ability to get experience and learn/figure out technique. 

--- End quote ---

Shist is really soft and sometimes crumbly.  It may look like there would be good gear but in reality the placements are not that good.    There are also a few that have been retro'd  to get more traffic.   ie an .8 at Lower new wave that was not even looked at until bolts were put in and now i'd guess it is done daily.

also there is nothing stopping you from bringing a rack and doing it in mixed style.  Lee Hanche has done many lines this way..  Hell Tim deroehn  has led Orangahang, technosurfing . who knows what else on gear.   he's also solo'd similar so take that for what it is.... 

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