Author Topic: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York  (Read 1452 times)

Offline GazLeah

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Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« on: April 11, 2013, 05:48:50 PM »
Hey,

I came to New York a year ago and have been climbing all the local places like the gunks and other nearby crags. I'm really beginning to miss sport climbing but can't find any where to go without travelling a long way.

I'm visiting birdsboro this weekend but does anyone know of other sport climbing venue i can visit. I know of rumney but thats an epic journey from new york.

Is there a reason why there's very little sport climbing on the east coast? Meaning ethical rather than the fact that just no one has got round to bolting anything.

Cheers

Gaz

Offline OldEric

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2013, 09:59:41 PM »
Eyebolter?  This one is lobbed up for you.  Swing away.

DLottmann

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2013, 10:05:04 PM »
Has to do with type of rock mostly... Gunks protects well with gear so it isn't a sport mecca. You'll want to visit Rumney or  WV, NC, TN.... lots of East Coast sport climbing....

Offline danf

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2013, 10:29:11 AM »
Dave, from what I've seen there's more than one climb at Rumney that would be pretty well protected with gear too but have bolts instead...  At the very least many lines could be considered "mixed" trad/sport if they weren't entirely bolted.  I'm not really complaining about it though- I'm happy to have a place like Rumney close, gives me the ability to get experience and learn/figure out technique. 

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2013, 11:15:07 AM »
Dave, from what I've seen there's more than one climb at Rumney that would be pretty well protected with gear too but have bolts instead...  At the very least many lines could be considered "mixed" trad/sport if they weren't entirely bolted.  I'm not really complaining about it though- I'm happy to have a place like Rumney close, gives me the ability to get experience and learn/figure out technique. 

Shist is really soft and sometimes crumbly.  It may look like there would be good gear but in reality the placements are not that good.    There are also a few that have been retro'd  to get more traffic.   ie an .8 at Lower new wave that was not even looked at until bolts were put in and now i'd guess it is done daily.

also there is nothing stopping you from bringing a rack and doing it in mixed style.  Lee Hanche has done many lines this way..  Hell Tim deroehn  has led Orangahang, technosurfing . who knows what else on gear.   he's also solo'd similar so take that for what it is.... 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2013, 12:24:12 PM »

Is there a reason why there's very little sport climbing on the east coast? Meaning ethical rather than the fact that just no one has got round to bolting anything.

Cheers

Gaz

Many of the areas in New York and New England were developed before sport climbing existed, so the existing traditions are (generally) respected.  Ken Nichols has kept Connecticut and adjacent areas pretty much bolt-free by chopping.  Some of this is changing, but it is still a fact.   

Farley Massachusetts is closer to you than Rumney.  Not all sport, but plenty of sport routes.  No guidebook, but always people there on the weekend (maybe too many!) who can point you in the right direction. 

The Adirondacks also have some good sport routes, check out King Wall. 

Offline terminusnout

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2013, 03:42:00 PM »
sporty routes at Silver Lake in the dacks.....

Offline sneoh

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2013, 03:46:54 PM »
Yeah, Whitey mentioned quite a few good sport and mixed routes at The Daks.
Not sure whether they are closer distance wise for the OP than Farley, MA though.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline danieljacq

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #8 on: October 09, 2013, 02:54:56 AM »
If the climbs are safer and easier, then what is there for enjoyment. It just waste of time. Taking risks in rock climbing can give us the total entertainment package.

Offline ed_esmond

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #9 on: October 09, 2013, 06:46:45 AM »
If the climbs are safer and easier, then what is there for enjoyment. It just waste of time. Taking risks in rock climbing can give us the total entertainment package.


sigh....
pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

Offline DaveR

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #10 on: October 09, 2013, 09:48:05 AM »
If the climbs are safer and easier, then what is there for enjoyment. It just waste of time. Taking risks in rock climbing can give us the total entertainment package.

Here we go again! :P

Offline strandman

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #11 on: October 09, 2013, 10:35:31 AM »
Even I have to disagree with that statement....

Offline DGoguen

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #12 on: October 09, 2013, 12:53:10 PM »
Is there less oxygen the further north you go.
Something has to be causing this.

Don't Climb

Offline JBrochu

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #13 on: October 10, 2013, 11:33:28 AM »
If the climbs are safer and easier, then what is there for enjoyment. It just waste of time. Taking risks in rock climbing can give us the total entertainment package.

Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
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This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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Offline JJ Jameson

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Re: Sport Climbing Weekend from New York
« Reply #14 on: October 11, 2013, 04:04:41 PM »
Gonna try to re-rail, instead of de-rail this...
This is publicly listed, so I'll share it with you. I make no claims as to legality of climbing here, and access could change at any time. Have never been personally hassled.

Mountain Project, New York, West Point, Poison Ivy Wall

Pleasant little sport crag, in unique spot, right on the Hudson, but alongside RR Tracks, don't even try to communicate with climbers when trains go by. Extraordinarily loud.
5.6- 5.11, heavily weighted in the 5.8 range. All bolts with two bolt anchors. read the MP info, lots there for parking etc. even an old guide you can download.

Yes the Gunks are just a little further up the Hudson Valley and offer world class climbing, but you asked for Sport.
You'll only need draws here.