This is easy, although I might have told this one before. The old tend to repeat themselves. We had put up the first three pitches of Skyhedral, and at the top of P3, end of the day, Doc and I survey P4, the last pitch, and agree it is probably trivial. Doc was real anti-bolt, and we didn't have the time to drill anyway--only hand drilling in NC y'know--so we put the rap anchor into this rounded, shallow, horizontal thing that didn't really qualify as a crack, but it did take a pretty decent baby angle and we beat a .5 tri-cam and #1 hex in beside it that were a lot less promising, but overall it's adequate.
Mark and I are up the next weekend to finish it off; Doc can't be bothered and starts a new route to the right. We get to the rap anchor and, without even thinking too much about it, clip into it for the belay, probably because we were figuring the last pitch was 5.6 anyway. Stupidity, hubris, I don't know. Laziness for sure, since just a few feet below is a good stance at the top of the skyhedral with a crack under an overlap that would have taken a dozen bomber medium cams. I start out and I'm climbing for shit, I can tell because it feels a lot harder than it looks like it should be. The move is obvious, mantling up on a small sloping ledge about 10' up, but there's no gear between it and the anchor, and I futz about and finally push into it, and I'm teetering right at the edge, trying to scunch my right toe higher and with each lurch a puff of wind could blow me off, no way to reverse now without falling, when in a moment of absolute clarity I knew that if I fell not only would I hit Mark, but we would both load that anchor straight out, it would pull, and we were going 300' to the ground. And all the insecurity disappeared, in fact all thinking ceased, just a total focus on finishing that mantle. I think the consensus for that move settled at 10c/d, turned out to be the crux of the whole route. Who knew. Ordner dropped in a couple of 10mm bolts there later and I growled about chopping retro bolts, cause intelligent people could belay from the lower stance, but my heart wasn't in it.