Actually, we defined trad climbing as: For those who enjoy placing protection on their own. This definition is it obsolete? It can be “for those who enjoy placing piton on their own”, and it will not make a big difference for many people as they don’t know what is a protection. In my opinion, modern definition must be clearer and more appealing.
In other thread, some people said that those who don’t compete are liar. The discussion turned to the existence of other motivations to do our sport. Some are to stay in shape, adrenaline boost, be in the wild in a warm day, to meet people. One of these motivations was the same one as in the star trek movies: “to boldly go where no man has gone before.”
Other point is the classification as extreme sport. As in more activity, extreme have a close relation to how you control your environment. If you have a bolt, you control more your environment than if you place a nuts; if you climb on sight, it is less in control than when you climbed each moved separately and try to send it after; etc. Less control that you have on the environment, more extreme is the sport.
When things go wrong is also a very important point. In a gym, there is not a lot of point that can go wrong. You are in control of the environment and people think about all what can happen to you. In the wild, climbing on sight, you never know what you will find up there. Could be good, as you expected the worse…or it could be the inverse. It is not a mistake to take a decision with some data and find later that you didn’t have enough data to predict correctly the situation. But when things go wrong you must know how to get out of the danger.
Control your environment and be an expert climber in few years…seems to me a good definition of sport climber.
For trad, what can be a modern definition if you consider that it is extreme and you most climb boldly, that it is to discover new world where you never go before, where things could go wrong in a minutes and you have to know your safety?