I'd like to see a trip report or description of a cool climb or area from Luke instead of the constant, overbearing, myopic analyses. .
I climbed in remote area, cliff like canon. There is no bolt and some piton. Rock can felt and dangerous slipery lichens is not rub by the few climber in the cliff. I did pratically all 5.6-5.9 and I still have few 5.10 to do. The reason why I climbed in US is because the season here is just of four month (black flies and ice) and because sport climber are so scary of those cliff that they humiliate trad climber as you just did.
When a beginer do is first step in climbing, often he want to trad climb. Because there is no appealing definition of trad...they do sport lesson and learn to climb hard before seing the danger and avoid it. You think that gypsy at cathedral is dirty...it is just normal. Because many trad climber open the route and climb it without telling you what they climb...you think that it is natural, but it is false.
Today, in a cliff like cathedral, just the classic are done. We don't see friends climbing easy route to the top just to be togheter, people relaxing enjoying the day as his partner climb, talking to other climber. You will tell me that at rumney people climb hard for twenty minutes, falling many times ans trying again and again. That they sit down on the ground and talk on their cell phone as the gri gri belay is partner, trying the move for twenty minutes. and that after the hero of the day will chalenge his partner to climb at his level.
I don't want to climb with sport climber...I want to climb with guy like webster...but at 5.9 - 5.11 level. I want to climb last unicorn bottom up, with partner with the same ethic as me. Your continous intervention on discussion like this one just scare trad people who don't like confrontation. I know that many climber are interested by trad, but you scare them.
So, go to kamouraska, go to lac long, write on escaladequebec.com...there is numbered of people like you all better than the other doing 5.11 and falling all at the same crux. I don't like that. Canon, poko and gunks are more attractive to me.