Author Topic: modern definition of trad  (Read 5354 times)

Offline sneoh

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #105 on: April 28, 2013, 10:02:22 PM »
Champ, I can assure you that 99+% of climbers with two or three  seasons of OUTDOOR experience under his/her belt is well aware of the difference between sport climbing and trad climbing.  Give people some credit, man.  I knew the difference my 1st year out and that is no way out of the ordinary.

For for MT, whatever happened to climbing the path of least resistance within a body length of the original path taken by the FA team?  Making it harder than necessary is just being contrived and for most cases silly.  I would think some self-proclaimed old traddie like Champ would have fully mastered this practice of efficiency.

And, as for epic resulting from not being able to get back on MT and Erect Direction, PLEASE, that happens practically every other weekend.  Hardly news.  Besides, it hardly constitutes a life and death situation for these two climbs.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2013, 10:45:33 PM by sneoh »

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Offline JakeDatc

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #106 on: April 28, 2013, 10:08:39 PM »
I'd like to see pictures of Champy on it. 

I don't believe you've even done it.   period.   Prove me wrong. 
« Last Edit: April 28, 2013, 10:34:14 PM by JakeDatc »
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Offline JakeDatc

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #107 on: April 29, 2013, 12:28:35 AM »
Gee, Champy is wrong.  shocking really.   from Vulgarian 1970


(pine tree belay no longer exists.. i think it was on the ledge you mantle up on after you get through the roofs and stand up.)
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Offline DaveR

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #108 on: April 29, 2013, 09:43:01 AM »
The great classic route in traditional style that jake dack did was not the roof of modern time.

LL, You are so full of SHIT! Have you even done the route? Just because Jake used different handholds than me or used a slightly different sequence does not mean he didn't climb the route! If you are a good climber there are probably 100 ways to climb and protect that route safely. I have done it myself at least a dozen times over the years and I doubt I have ever done it twice the same way. I have to agree with Ken here, looks like Jake styled what IMO is one of the best pitches of 5.8 in the east.

Jake, Those are great pics! The only pic I have of me on modern times is a pic of my ass about 25 years ago. It wasn't pretty then and its just older now! ???

Online lucky luke

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #109 on: April 29, 2013, 10:02:09 AM »
What the matter with you? I am just kidding you a little, don't went to show your ignorance. The first and second pitch are link togheter. In the third pitch they belay under the overhang. Where you placed very long sling. The four pitch, you climb the overhang and go to the pine....

If you can't see the big pine just in the left of your finger...Really need to take a course of route finding. I didn't made the belay at the pine tree, so the last move was desesperate as I was tired with rope drag. To remove the pro, when my partner changed his direction, was hard as the place is overhanging.

I can say that my partner kidding me because one day I wasn't able to finish the black dike at whitehorse, a 5.6. I was not insult, it happen in trad climbing. Maybe an other difference.       

 


Offline JakeDatc

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #110 on: April 29, 2013, 10:39:22 AM »
What the matter with you? I am just kidding you a little, don't went to show your ignorance. The first and second pitch are link togheter. In the third pitch they belay under the overhang. Where you placed very long sling. The four pitch, you climb the overhang and go to the pine....

If you can't see the big pine just in the left of your finger...Really need to take a course of route finding. I didn't made the belay at the pine tree, so the last move was desesperate as I was tired with rope drag. To remove the pro, when my partner changed his direction, was hard as the place is overhanging.

I can say that my partner kidding me because one day I wasn't able to finish the black dike at whitehorse, a 5.6. I was not insult, it happen in trad climbing. Maybe an other difference.       

 


Now i KNOW  you didn't climb the route.   The overhang pine tree is NOT the pine tree that they describe in the guidebook.  there used to be a large tree  past the overhangs out right  that died and fell off the cliff.   

seriously?  you think that from my red sling to the tree is 40' (10ish meters?)    no one even slings that tree.. if you do your second is screwed because it will always get jammed up and hard to remove.   not to mention it says climb the overhang and traverse RIGHT  to the pine.. which is no longer there..   

now go run along and let people who know what they are talking about make fun of you in peace.   :D

« Last Edit: April 29, 2013, 10:46:37 AM by JakeDatc »
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Offline Jeff

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #111 on: April 29, 2013, 10:55:01 AM »
And once again, this time on a thread started by Luc, THE HORSE IS DEAD ( Or to be clear to all, Le Cheval Est Mort!!)  >:(

Offline WharfRat

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #112 on: April 29, 2013, 12:54:47 PM »
Champ would you just STFU for once and for all, you are annoying as shit! Pretty sure this board has turned into a ghost town  a direct result of you killing the overall mood. Well throw D-man into that also but you bring it to a whole nother level...

You are like a annoying gnat that you just cant seem to kill. Really no big deal but after a a while it just drives you fucking bonkers!!

Don't you have something better to do with yourself? Clearly not....

Offline frik

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #113 on: April 29, 2013, 03:56:41 PM »
I think unless you climb it as per the VD, - in five pitches,  then you can't claim it.
Sorry Jake.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #114 on: April 29, 2013, 06:09:06 PM »
Pretty sure that this forum gets  a large portion of it's hits from folks clicking on champs soap opras :P

Offline strandman

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #115 on: April 29, 2013, 06:37:21 PM »
OK , you got me back.... i wanna fucking whack somebody......LL, anytime you want i will define trad for you

Offline DaveR

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #116 on: April 29, 2013, 07:33:25 PM »
OK , you got me back.... i wanna fucking whack somebody......LL, anytime you want i will define trad for you

LL-You don't need gear to be scared. Heres a "bolted" route that will scare you as much as any "trad" route!

Try "Bits and Pieces" 11B (Make sure your belayer has thier shit together!)
Found out later that TC was standing at the bottom watching when I led it clean. I thought that was pretty cool as he was one of my mentors when I started climbing. The first time I tried it I took the fall as I was about to clip. CL who posts here sometimes was belaying me. I got my composure back while he determined he wanted no part of that fall and we rapped down. A couple years and dozens of climbs later I hiked it casually as TC was watching. ;)
It may be bolted and it may not be 5.13 but in my many years of climbing just about anything you can climb it is still one of the sends I am proudest of.

Offline strandman

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #117 on: April 29, 2013, 07:38:59 PM »
Yo Dave- thanks for the props... we went many times on that fall.. maybe 2 hours.... Tc's best drillinf]g I think and he a MASTER,, way better than me.

When I moved, I gave TC my hammer... i think a good gift for the master.Balls of steel and a great eye for line

Online lucky luke

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #118 on: April 30, 2013, 03:41:04 AM »
Here we have a 90% sport climber onsighting 5.8+  which some "trad" climbers have pathetically call 10c.  I wonder how many "trad" climbers miss the bomber knee bar,  I wonder how many let their feet cut because it's easier to swing your feet up to the next hold, I wonder how many of them piss their pants on the exit moves because they don't know how to climb while they are pumped out and don't know how to rest on an overhang. 


So, I open a new route at the gunks. I would call it modern time II. I climb a notch and past the tree to an other notch to a belay thirty feet above the tree. And when my second decide to avoid the roof, they did the 5.10c variation that you did. Wow, I never thought that I am so good.

any way, great photo, it remember me a lot of good feeling.

The old far who show me where the route goes, as we were waiting for the roof of HE,  was a liar
« Last Edit: April 30, 2013, 03:50:29 AM by lucky luke »

Offline JBrochu

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Re: modern definition of trad
« Reply #119 on: April 30, 2013, 06:24:40 AM »
The old far who show me where the route goes, as we were waiting for the roof of HE,  was a liar


You think there was just the slightest teenie weenie little chance it was a communication issue...? Nah...




   

 
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